Well, after a few years of hanging out quietly, here, I've decided to start my build. I have sufficient tools and space, but just hadn't gotten around to buying steel and starting to cut. Yesterday, I fixed that. I'm trying to scratch build as much as possible, mainly to learn the basic processes needed to build. I've sourced a nice Ash stump for metal bashing and have both O/A and MIG. When I'm done I want a High Boy 29-ish Roadster with skinny tires and no hood. Probably SBC powered, but am still looking for the right engine. Thinking dark blue with red steel wheels. I've already sourced an Explorer 8.8 rear axle which I will shorten, and will pry use a 4" dropped front axle from Speedway. Am thinking whether I want a 4" Z or not. In the meantime, I am reading everything I can put my mitts on.
You may done know but you need to take out 2 7/8 on the long side of the explorer. That will center the pinion and give you a total width of 56 1/2 or so.
I'm using a combo of the frame plans from Rod Plans https://www.rodplans.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1283&Itemid=670 and the terrific "how to" guide published here by @brianangus https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-build-an-early-hotrod-frame.150434/
My first Model A coupe build started with just a body, never built a chassis before, but it turned out great. I got the inspiration for the front and rear kick up from going to one of the NASCAR shops near me with my brother.
Today I got a call from the local auto salvage yard to come pick up my axles. I hurried home over lunch, picked up my Iron Pig and the Land Cruiser Security Force (her name is Lela) and picked them up. Am pretty happy with my find; two L73 code 1995-2004 Explorer axles. Spent the rest of the evening just getting off the bolt ons. I'm assuming that none of the perches or other welded on bumpf can be saved, and I should just cut those off.
I know I am not making a ton of progress, but my motto is "a little bit every night". Work is kicking my butt, but that's ok. Tonight I finished up cutting out one of the frame horns, and welded in a section of round tubing to keep it stable; welding on 2 x .125 strap to finish is next up. Two things I learned tonight. First, it's almost impossible to make both sides of the horns match on the first cut. So what I did is get one side "right" and cut the other side slightly oversize and then ground it down to match the smaller side. Second, I MIG'ed in the round tubing with Vulcan MigMax 215 from Harbor Freight. I knew I was taking a chance, but had heard some really unbelievable reviews about the machine and just had to find out if the hype was for real. I tell you, if this thing holds up, (and it looks like first rate kit) I don't think I'll use another MIG. I'm an old school O/A guy and have never liked electric welders, regardless of method. My MIG, TIG and stick welding SUCKS. With the MigMax, you plug it in, hang your wire, set the tension, set the thickness of metal and wire, and get the gun's tip somewhere near your material, and it does all the work for you. It's almost as smooth welding as my Meco Midget N, but a heck of a lot faster and more flexible. It welds good close, far away, and at just about any angle you hold it. Well, enough of the darned infomercial and hopefully tomorrow night I can cut out the other frame horn and maybe even tack on some .125 straps to finish that portion.
One of the hardest things I've found was how to free-hand two curved metal rails with a angle grinder and to make them match. Of course, if I had a plasma cutter or some CNC magick machine, it'd be easy, but a little noodling did the trick tonight. The first thing I did was to use a level to check how uniform the first rail was from side to side. Of course, it was all caterwampus, so I used a spirit level and an angle grinder to make both sides level, both top and bottom. Then, I put the cut out rail on top of the non-cut out rail and traced it out with a grease pencil. Not bad, but kind of hard to make the cuts when the sparks are flying. Then I had the epiphany to just clamp the two rails together. Crap, that made it so easy it wasn't even fair. Unfortunately, I ran out of cutting wheels before I got it cut out completely, but it was stupid simple. I tack welded the second piece of tubing into the nose, which helped with the clamping and such.
I think I've found an engine and tranny. 322 Buick nailhead and 6 bolt 3 speed. Will hopefully pick up next weekend.
To "Z" or Not To "Z". That is the question I'm thinking about right now. I've finalized my design to a Model A "High Boy" and I have located a 4" dropped front axle. I've finished welding the frame horns on the rails, and am going to deal with the rear portions of the rails, next. I need to decide whether to taper the rear of the rails or to put a Z in there. Anyone running a 4" dropped front axle and a non-Z'ed rear frame? Anyone have some good pics?
I like your "A" sweep method for the front frame horns. If I had a little more "horn" to work with on my build, I'd give it a shot. I will round off the ends after I've hung the front sway bar. I might fab up an apron to hide the front subframe and sway bar all the way to the grille shell. Once I build a grille shell......
Well, today marks a day of days. After having super skinny 4.5 inch cutting wheels self-disintegrate, I upgraded to an 1/8th inch cutting wheel. I also changed from nails and marking crayons to mark out my lines. What a huge difference that made. I also finally found my puddle "wah" with my MIG machine. Up until then I was "guess and by golly" welding, with lots of slag and ugly beads. I realize now that MIG is just O/A welding with electricity (Duh!) Forgive my ugly welds; I burned up a cheap Chinese grinder and will get another heavier duty one, but my first frame rail is all but done.
20180628_081227 by Chappy444 posted Jun 28, 2018 at 8:13 AM 20180628_081209 by Chappy444 posted Jun 28, 2018 at 8:13 AM 20180701_114145 by Chappy444 posted Jul 2, 2018 at 10:09 PM sorry. best i have with me right now. Chappy
I use Harbor Freight cutting wheels, 6 inch, 1/16 thick. 've never had one to fly apart and they last better than the other ones I was using. I didn't figure they'd be worth a crap, more people must be using them, every time I get them they seem to go up in price.
Well, I am now the happy owner of a 322 Buick with three deuces sitting on top, as well as a 6 bolt transmission. That thing is the coolest. I drove to Texas and back over the weekend to pick it up and look forward to getting it to fit in the frame. I also replaced my cheap burned up angle grinder with an 11 amp DeWalt unit. Works great.
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