Technical ***July 2018 Banger Meet - A Midsummer Banger Dream***

Man I bet that cleans up nice! Probably a lot of dust and dirt stuck on it

 

Restorer Santa Rosa Fire
Those of you that read the article, I offer a little insight, those individuals in the article are personal friends and Club members of mine, having lived there for 28 years. We sold and escaped 4 years ago, Henry Renauld's place was directly across the road from our old place, which was saved but the garage and out building were lost.

I have helped Henry for 5 years to setup his shop and move his 30 panel deliveries in pieces and huge inventory into his storage room under his home. Henry never moved in to his new place, I had been trying for years to get him into the single level home, for health reasons.

The storage level contained 4 A engines, 1 B engine 5 39 top shift V8 trans and 2 41 trans and tons of parts.
I am trying to salvage the gears and had a friend that makes gear boxes to reheat treat 1 set of gears. The heat twisted the cases into junk, the gears were soft as butter.

Fortunately I never got the equipment and stuff" moved from his other home 15 miles away . Henry has a little different view of things, he keeps his flathead Donavan new in the box under his kitchen table, so at least it is safe.

 

Took an old friend up to Maine for some back road vacation time. Suns out, it’s time to drive em.

 

Fantastic looking car! Truely stunning... I'm going to have that picture printed and hung in my garage, if it's okay with you, @rockman29 ?
As the engine in the bay isn't bright yellow, I guess, you finished your B motor for it?

 

Ha had forgotten about that old post. Thanks for the compliments Danner. The yellow motor was a loaner from a friend of mine. The current motor has been in the car for some time now, and runs great. Feel free to use the photo, glad you like it.

 

It IS old, from 2010 - but after you posted the picture, I hunted down some sort of build thread of the car, and found this to be as close to as I could (... or as my patience would allow me to, as I am still at work, beginning my summer holiday in a few hours). Could you elaborate more details about the car and current set up (e.g. the lowering details)?

Will do then.

 

I posted a thread asking opinions on 1bbl carbs, but didn’t get any responses.

Any thoughts on dual Holley 847s or Stromberg bxovs on a slightly modified model A motor?b cam, Mallory ignition, 6:1 head.

My line of thinking is that dual strombergs seem to be slightly too much carb for these engines.

Anybody have thoughts? Or know what type of flow these give compared to the 81s,97s, 94s?

 

I ran a single barrel ‘46 Ford truck carb on a Stromberg-Bendix intake. Ran ok...replaced it with a Weber 32/36 set up that was a lot better:

 

Greetings from central Vermont. Longtime looker/learner, first time poster. Avatar's my Jalopy...'30 Banger pu I've had about 10 years. Converted to flatbed cause, well, I like em
And you don't see that many. Will post pics when I figure that out.

In the early '60's, I helped big Brother hop up a '29 tubster (as in, held drop lights and handed wrenches)...I was 12, but got bit big time. When finished, we piled in and departed
Takoma Park, Md., bound for summer jobs at my uncle's shipyard in Long Beach, Cal...
But that's a tale for another time...

What inspired me to jump on the bandwagon, is the current discussion on F.S.I. I just converted to 12v. Earlier, I'd put on a Nurex "modern" distributor, and just swapped in an
FSI electronic module, along with their 12v coil. I'm good with instructions, and followed
them exactly. My problem...the coil gets wicked hot. I talked w/ J.D. at FSI, and he admitted that he wasn't an expert on coils, but said I didn't need the external ballast resistor (as used
w/ a 6v coil).

The monthly Banger Meet has been my main haunt for over a year, and I know you good
Folks can point me in the right direction. Can you help please?

Shutter Speed

 

Some coils don't like to be mounted upside down. Meaning that the end that the wire comes out of pointing down.They have a fluid in them, oil I think.

Did the coil you are using come from FSI?

If the coil you have has an internal resistor, then you will not need an additional ballast resistor.

.

 

Thanks, I hadn't thought of that. I'll try it. FSI supplied the 12v coil, and said it did NOT require the resistor. I followed suit, and installed "upside down". Thx again. Will report back

 

Got my new wheels and tires on today here's a before and after.


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Any good machine shops in so-cal. Not interested in H & H. Thanks.

 

Got my engine today. Counterbalanced and inserted, Stipe cam, 6:1 Snyder’s Head, cut down flywheel with V-8 clutch. I am excited to see How this makes the ol coupe run along.

On another note anybody have any suggestions about repairing these cracks in a cast iron head?



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Is it just the two vertical cracks around the stud hole at the water neck ?

If so, I would braze them . ( oxyacetylene) Use a high quality flux matched to brazing rods recommended by your supplier.
Find and drill the end of the cracks, to stop them going any further. Grind the crack to a u shaped groove on the outside and the top so that it is not just a hairline crack, not too deep though , make sure repair area is completely clean. Pre heat the head in an oven , temperature isn't critical (not to hot) but it needs to stay warm enough so that the brass will flow without freezing while you do the job. Brass melts around 875C so the head will only need to be heated to about 900-925 ,way less than welding and way less chance of cracking as it cools. These cracks are only small so pre heat and cooling shouldn't be a big issue.
You may want to drill the crack from the top down the inside edge of the stud hole as well and carefully braze the inside . It depends on how far the brass flows from the outside.
Once it is all cooled, clean it up with sharp fine files... and paint it red!!
I wouldn't use a drill through the hole , just a round file...a drill might catch on a lump of braze and break the side back out.
You could of course just find another head and send that damaged one to me!!

 

Thanks for the advice. My initial thought was braze also. Those are the only cracks I can see. I think I need To find someone with more experience with brazing than I have to help. I also need to relief cut the bottom to clear piston pop up. I will get the engine put together and in the car and can swap heads later.

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I like it. What size?

 

Binger, is that from Bert's? Pulled the engine from the roadster yesterday and taking it to Bert's Tuesday.

 

Yes it is from Burt’s. I have been in the waiting list since late April. They are super busy and good rebuildable cores are getting harder to find is what Dan was saying. He says he gets 1 in 10 that he can use. I was glad I had 1 out of the 5 I took him.


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A block,sleeved to stock. stock crank on new babbit, stock pistons.oil pump with feed pipe to center main,B cam,B flywheel balanced with pressure plate,Mc Eachern gears,modern valves,Snyder 5.5 head decked,Holley 94 on ansen,B distributor with modern points,Miller Serr header (helping a brother with a Miller Serr OHV,his wife said it was too loud). Mitchell,OD stock trans 3.78 rear..what do you think it will put out if I manage to tune it correctly? 55 to 60 horse?

 

See post 98 as it is very similar to yours. Put out 59 HP at the rear wheels on a chassis dyno. I’m running a T-5 and a Weber 32/36 carb. My head is an original CRAGAR.

 

Our B block turned out crack free just very pitted on the deck surface so as Johnneilson said its a good candidate for an OHV,. The block will require re sleeving . We want to make a little better HP so along with the OHV what is the recommended bore size to go out to, and a source for good pistons? We have a B crank and Brierly mild cam.

 

I'm going flathead,a snyder 5.5 decked,I figure 5.7 to 1 or so..no way am I gonna put 59 at the wheels...I was hoping for 55-60 at the flywheel if I was lucky..The Miller Serr head my friend has is running a 32/36 as well,cast iron header and and aries exhaust,its still not a sleeper but it doesnt raise the dead like the header does..we ran that header open on initial fire up,man it was loud..

 

Ok crack free block . But the timing cover ain’t so . I presume A &B front covers are different. Any ideas where to start looking for a B4 front cover that isn’t so hurt.
So is this even the correct B4 front cover with the pin higher up on the oval boss?

 

Few years ago Mostly stock Okay, went to picture-posting school...here's INTRO Pt.2. Still don't know where the words will end up.

 

Yes, that is B timing cover.

 

Another method is to knock out the cracked section and using the remaining bolt hole as a base fill the area in with nickle rod,then re drill. Its critical that mating surface is dead nuts flat and the neck is flat as well,I use no gasket,just a bit of silicone when assembling.

 

7.50-16 and 5.50-16 still need to lower it all around a bit to make it sit right though.


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I may have a spare one in my pile Bryan. Will have a look this week, before I come down to the Palmy swap meet. If not I think I know somebody else who will have spares .

 

Okay, genitalmen, I've tried some fixes on my "hot coil" situation (but not CRAZYDADDYOS suggestion, as my thermal-engineer brother said orientation of the coil would not effect cooling).

I even swapped back the old 6v coil w/added resistor, and I'm still reading 120*+. All you daily drivers would be doing me a huge favor if, next time you're warmed up, just give your coil a touch, and let me know...Warm? Hot? Too Hot to Hold?

BNGR's runnin and drivin fine, just don't wanna fry anything. Any input will help!
Thanks.