Hey everybody, I'm finally getting started on my 29 tudor sedan. All I have is the body. It's in fairly ruff shape but the body is mostly solid. All the wood has rotted away by now. I was going to blow the car apart and media blast all the panels, prime, ***emble, and then start metal work. As I started trying to blow the body apart, I noticed that the body must have already been taken apart once in is life as the body bolts are no way original. The panels are fused with rust. I've tried pb blaster to no avail. Light prying but I think that's going to do more damage then good. Should I give up on blowing it apart? Just blast the car whole? I don't want to do all the body and paint work if the rusted panel seams are going to come back and haunt me. Any advice is appreciated. I haven't restored any old cars, as this is my first pre 1980 car I've done. I've done major projects on late model cars, and was a union welder for awhile so I'm not afraid of the fab work. I am how ever afraid of twisting these panels up beyond my realm of capabilities. I appreciate the help.
Could the panels of been brazed or welded together? Rivets were used back then to attach panels as well Maybe some wire brushing along the seams will reveal something Any pics you can post?
I would try using a 50/50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone. Soak as best you can. It should free things up in a day or two.
I'm no expert, but I seem to remember my brother (who is a Model A expert) saying sometimes the upper quarters were bolted AND spot welded to the lower quarters. Is this the area you are having problems with? If you can find those spot welds, you can drill them out. I do recommend dis***embling all the panels and blasting between all those joints. Then prime and paint the joints before bolting back together. Wouldn't hurt to put seam sealer in the joint as well if you aren't going to be welding right there.
Two early panels have the rivit or weld connection. I recall drilling the weld, and careful prying, and chiseling them apart. Patience a vertue here! Flanges that rust together...heat, chemical derusters, phosphoric?
Ya that would be the area. I'll have to wire brush it and take another look for spot welds. On a plus note I found a non cracked complete 8ba for fifty bucks that I got to go pick up tonight.
They are for sure spot welded as well as bolted. Yes you should take the time to separate them if you want a new paint job to last. The overlap ledge on the Top half is a Rust magnet and impossible to get clean enough if not. If your going for the in the Rough look I wouldn't do that much work. The Wizzard
Bolts are all out so I'm sure that there has to be a weld I haven't found yet. I appreciate the tip on that, didn't know they welded them back then. I pulled the flathead apart, cylinders are stock bore, still see factory hatch marks, the valve springs still have the original paint coating on them. Spins over easily, no pan rail cracks, no valve to cylinder cracks, no water jacket head bolt cracks, cam looks brand new. I think a simple ring, bearing, and gasket set should get it running. To be honest it almost looks like a new motor inside. I got very lucky.
If your talking about a Factory 4 banger you won't be putting Bearings in it. Be damn careful when you unbolt those Rod Caps. The Wizzard
yes, as alchemy said those upper and lower panels are spot welded too. i had a hell of a time getting them apart on my `28 Tudor for blasting, but it was worth it because 23 years later there is no rust creeping out
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