After examining the tires, I felt they were not safe for any type of distance to be driven, much less at the copious speeds I hoped my Sport Coupe could obtain. The inner tubes seemed to be holding air just fine, but I couldn’t help but wonder about the cracking of the Sears Allstate rubber. However, lots of stuff to mark off the list, and the beauty of the tires wasn’t a big concern… so I chose not to call on Burt Munro’s trick with black shoe polish. I just relegated myself to neighborhood, low speed jaunts. Other than the obvious and seemingly never-ending maintenance items that needed attention before any driving could be done, a few other projects on the car were handled while I premeditated my next big move. I purchased a passenger side taillight and mount, as I am very interested in drivers behind me having NO problem seeing that I intend to slow down… And admittedly, I’m also more interested in the symmetry of two. Upon arrival, it was very apparent that the repro mount was not any where near the same shape as the original one on the driver’s side. What started as a quick addition, rapidly turned into a several hours long cut, fit, weld, cut, fit, grind, weld, smooth and paint fiasco. It worked out in the end tho. While doing the taillights, I had plenty of time to stare at the back of the car, and I was reminded that my fondness for the spare hanging off the back, was nonexistent. So, I did what any of us would have done and pulled it off. Now… what to do about those holes? I decided to utilize them for my license plate mount & light. Starting off with a piece of tubing, I bologna cut the end then shaped it into a slight curve and welded a washer into the end of it. Then I used some flat bar for the plate mount and cut a gracefully curved piece to go on each side of the light. After it was all welded and painted, I mounted a 28-29 dash light in it. Clean, simple and functional. I like it! Sorry I don’t have any fab pics for ya, but here is the final product. Getting those new headlights a bit lower was marked of the list shortly after due to the purchase of a new bar. Nothing extravagant about this, but it sure looked a lot better to me! This is an evening hours pic I took of my 30 Tudor and 26 Roadster sharing space with the 29. The next morning, we planned to take the 29 out for its first little ride to a benefit show. I hoped all would go well, but I was worried about our lack of time together on the street. To be cont…
The next morning was brisk, for sure! A stout breeze was coming out of the west and was doing it’s best to remind you that a jacket would be a smart chunk of your attire. All checked out good on the 29 and my lady decided to drive the 65 GMC behind me. The little benefit show was at a high school very near to us, for special needs young adults. I figured it’d be a great opportunity to see if the Sport Coupe liked having it’s legs stretched a bit. All went very well, and it appeared by all the questions and pictures that people snapped, that the 29 was well received. Here’s a shot of the two together. For more than a few months, I just puttered around the neighborhood with it. New tires for the stock rims weren’t in the plans… and I didn’t wanna risk the safety situation of having it on any heavier-traveled roads. During one of these rides through the neighborhood, I got to thinkin… What if this car had a story something like this? Maybe back in 42 or 43, a younger, bachelor fella… probably around 19 or so, got his draft papers and was called on by Uncle Sam to head off to the Navy. He had this Sport Coupe and knew he’d back for it… but didn’t want it to sit the whole time and not get used. Money wasn’t exactly layin around just waitin to be picked up and his kid brother had always liked riding with him when he went anywhere. So, he asked the 16-year-old to take care of it for him until he got back… which he excitedly agreed to do! The kid loved the car… but wanted it to stand out a bit more than the other ones running around. A few of his buddies claimed it was easier to catch a ladies eye if you had something a bit flashier than some old-run-of-mill-Ford. With ideas jamming in his head, he exchanged letters with his older brother, who was floating around in the Pacific, and asked if he could change a few things on his car? The older brother was glad he was having fun with it and gave his blessing to do what he wanted to it. Besides, he figured… there were a few guys on board the ship talking about some hopped-up roadsters they had… and that sounded like something he was gonna do when he got back home! The kid brother had a little cash from working in town, but not much to spare. Times were tight, gas was rationed and good tires were getting scarce. What could he do? Probably hit the junkyards and try to beat the scrape drives in hopes of getting some “newer” Ford parts to use. Now, I know that’s not true for my 29… BUT… it could have been. So, I decided to go in that direction with it. Try to keep it true to only parts that the kid would’ve scored by scrounging. I'm not gonna pull your leg tho… I used a few parts here and there to make it happen, that weren’t around back then. It’s not NEARLY as period perfect as many of the cars on here… But, I tried to stay true to the flavor of the era that I chose. Here’s the very beginning of it. First step... Altitude adjustment! Unfortunately, a bunch of disassembly pics have disappeared, but those were mostly just stuff that everyone has seen before. However, I do have a few pretty cool pics of parts that were removed and refurbished, to be put back into service again. Here’s a small taste. This is one of the kingpins that was removed and just wiped off with a rag. Remember when I mentioned earlier that I thought this may be a pretty low mileage car? To be cont…
Loving this man. Curious if your dash looked got plays light will do well in the elements? Suppose it lived on a roadster dash it wouldn’t be totally different so maybe it’ll be fine. I am wondering also if it pushes in/ pulls out to turn on and off like you see some dash lights do?
It still looks new, almost 3 years later. The dash/plate light still works as it originally would (i.e. push in, twist CW, turns on). I just leave it in the "on position" all the time and it is hooked up to the headlight switch.
You do good work. I've been driving my avatar for about 22 years thru 4 states. 7:1 Lion Speed head, Model B cam--new, not reground, 12v, electronic ignition, Nu-rex timing strip, stainless header with 2 SU carburetors, fully synchronized 3 speed with overdrive using the torque tube, Self adjusting, Lincoln/Bendix brakes, dropped axle, 195/80R16 tires only one inch wider than stock tread
I explained to Bryan to what my goal was… aaaand he wasn’t exactly enthusiastic about the changes I wanted to make. Also, he told me that he’d never lowered a Model A and he had no knowledge of the parts I would need… so I was on my own there. But, he was more than happy to help me tear the front suspension off and get it disassembled. Sweet! So, on a chilly Saturday morning in late December of 2014, we set to the task of removing and disassembling the entire front suspension of the 29. It was fantastic having him there to show me what to do and help out. And of course, the little tricks here and there that he knew, were great to learn. He proclaimed several times that he couldn’t remember having a front end come apart as easily as this one did, nor the amazingly little bit of wear that we could find! After we had a cruddy pile of parts, he told me with a chuckle, that this was his favorite time had arrived, because he got leave and someone else (me) had to do all the cleanup. LOL I would like to be clear on one thing before we jump into it tho. I went with mechanical brakes on the 29. I don’t want to turn this into a mechanical vs juice brake debate… basically, because there is no debate to have. Juice brakes are better in every way, period. I know it, I get it, and I agree with it. And some day, possibly sooner than later, I will install juice brakes on the Sport Coupe. However, when doing this rebuild, I chose to go with the stock Model A brakes after Bryan helped me adjust the brakes on my stock 30 Tudor. I explained to him all the research I did online of mech vs juice and he said mech brakes get a bad rap, basically for the same reason that everyone seems to think all flatheads overheat… Operator/builder/mechanic error. Ok, I’m intrigued… show me. After we were done adjusting the brakes on the 30 Tudor, I was amazed at how well it stopped and the ease in which I could skid all four wheels on a whim and also during a “panic stop”. I know that mechanical brakes can fade easier than juice, I know they require more maintenance and I know the width of the tires have a lot to do with the whole situation. I don’t live in “hill country”, so downhill fade is not an issue, and this is not driven at highway speeds. Nuff said… let’s get back to it. After scouring the HAMB and Fordbarn for info, reading through partial lists, misinformation and threads that lacked the details I needed… I decided on the following list of parts to lower it. If you have a stock Model A, you will need to install these parts to work with all your other stock parts, while keeping the stock mechanical brakes. I’m sure there are other ways to do it… But this is what I used, and I didn’t run into ANY interference issues at all. 1) 33 Ford axle 2) 32 Ford spindles 3) 32 Ford spring perches 4) Posies 2" front lowering spring (part # 1002L) 5) Stock Model A Ford kingpins 6) Stock Model A Ford brake actuators 7) Stock Model A Ford shackles 8) Stock Model A Ford wishbone 9) 1/4in spacers (2) These go between the TOP of the axle and the wishbone (VERY important!) 10) 32 spindle bolt bushing (reamed to spindle size after installation) 11) 32 spindle bolt rebuild kit, with new bearings 12) 1 ½” shorter pitman arm (this is not required, but definitely helps to ease steering effort) Here are the kingpins all ready to go back in. Here are the front shoes, fresh out of the blaster. We decided to replace the linings… even tho they still had plenty of material on them. I figured it was best to do it now. And look what I found after grinding the rivets away!!! WOW!!! Were those REALLY the original brake linings??? And they ALL looked like that. Not like one set had been changed at a different time or anything like that. Hmmmm… Here is the front axle assembly ready to bolted back on. Sorry it’s so blurry Next, we tackle the reassembly To be cont…
Thank you for the compliment sir! I will admit that I am more than just a little envious of your drivetrain!
Here are all the frontend parts ready to go back together. The drums were in great shape with lots of meat still left on them. They only required a quick run through the lathe, then some primer and paint. New linings installed on the shoes which were then arched to fit each drum. Bryan also taught me how to rebuild the factory Model A shocks. It is quite a process that begins by breaking out the Kroil to be applied along the seam of the front “cover” and the cast “base”. Let them soak for a day or three. When you are confident the Kroil has done its job, fire up an old BBQ grill and get the coals HOT! This, I have been taught, is a good time to crack a frosty, adult beverage open. 1st… it gives you something to do while the grill is turning into a broiler B… it helps with the timing of the process, as you want to make sure all parts are equally heated Thrice… repeat beverage intake for each shock body going into the grill Cuatro… after a couple of shocks, if you happen to burn yourself, it won’t hurt as much After the grill is up to temp, bury one shock “body” into the coals, so it has time to think about how easy it’s gonna come apart for you, then set a timer for 20 minutes. Having some big, thick welding gloves to cover your digits comes in real handy during the next few steps. When the timer dings, pull the shock body outs the grill and take it right over to a vice and clamp in it. Then grab a big Channellocks and unscrew the front of it. The innards should be loosened up by the heat aaand whatever was still inside there, is nothing but charred gunk now. Let that one sit in the vice. Grab your next shock body and repeat the process. Your beverage should be empty by this point, so a new one will be needed to complete the timed cycle as planned. Now, go over to the vice, which has been acting as a heat sink for the disassembled shock body, and remove it. After a short while, all shocks should be laying in pieces and cooling off. From there… Clean, blast, fit the innards, assemble with Model A shock fluid, clean, prime and paint. Here are one set of the originals that we did. Also shown are the shorter dog bones that I bought thru Mac's. And finally, all the parts back together. Amazing that the only non-original parts in this pic are the linings and the grease! To be cont…
Drooooool Couple quick questions before I go back to look at those photos again. What did you use to blast them media wise? How did you clean the brake springs? How do you attach the new linings to the shoes? Loving this
Does the wife notice you cut a few inches off her welcome mat at the front door? Those shoe linings sure look loosely woven.
Excellent story, I couldnt stop reading... most of all, for myself anyways, thanks for showing all the pics and parts needed for lowering and rebuilding. Impressive work.
Sure does look like an 'operating' room or, maybe, an assembly line in some long gone Ford plant! The only thing better than the story is the storyteller. Model A's have always been a fav of mine and the Sport Coupes are on the Top of the list. A Big Thank You for sharing your tale (and Yes, it pays to listen to that little voice in your head), Carp.
WOW! One of the finest HAMB finds and early start up stories. Great looking car, I could always find room for a Sport Coupe. Bob
Enjoying this thread immensely...make me realize what great engineering , state of the art was back then , before my parents were born...have fun with that survivor....
Thanks Tim! I use 120 grit aluminum oxide, in the blaster. Works well, yet doesn't beat the parts up. The springs seemed nice and tight when removed, so I didn't feel any need to replace them. First cleaned them in the parts washer with kerosene, then wire brushed them with the bench grinder. After that, I threw em in the blast cabinet and used short controlled blasts to get down inside them. The finish is just plain old silver RustOLeum. The new linings are attached with brass rivets, same as the way Ford did it.
LOL, that's funny... I thought the same thing when I first got em. I ordered this lining replacement set from Mac's. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_a/model-a-ford-brake-lining-master-set-woven.html I can attest to the fact that they absolutely do work very well. I highly recommend them.
LOL, no... I like to call it "particular"... several of my friends call it something else. Thanks cactus! I greatly appreciate the kind words, Carp! Thank you! Bob, thanks so much for the kind words, sir! So glad you are enjoying it! Words like yours makes all the effort worthwhile!!
After throwing on the brake drums, I absolutely couldn’t resist bolting up my rolling stock for a look see. And it’s a good thing I had them… because the stock 21s and tires would NOT have played well with the front fenders! (In this pic the rear suspension is still stock) So how much did the front setup lower it? Drum roll pleeeeeeease!!! Dum dum dum duuuum!!! I dunno. Sorry… I didn’t measure it before we tore it apart. I wish I would’ve remembered to do it, but I didn’t. I know yer probably going “WTF MAN?!!! You do all this and NOT drop a tape measure?” I know… if it helps at all, every time I think about it or I’m asked about it, I kick myself for not doing it. BUT… the voice has reminded me that the stock spring that I removed had probably sagged over the years quite a bit, so it wouldn’t be an accurate comparison anyway… and I like that sense of reasoning, so I just go with that. From the pic, I’m pretty sure you’ll agree that it is substantial tho! I decided that 35 Ford wires would be the wheel of choice for the younger brother. Definitely newer looking than the stock wheels, and it would aid in the progress of getting the 29 down a bit lower. Aaaaaand… It just so happened that I had been holding onto a nice set that I had gathered up over the years, for a different project. I also figured if he looked around enough, maybe he could find some Firestones that would give it a bit of a rake. The fronts are 4.50/4.75-16s and the rears are 7.50-16s, from Coker. So now that you see it… I need to address a couple questions, in case someone else may have a similar situation. Several gentlemen have PM’d asking for a shot of the assembly. I went out to garage and took one, and after looking at the pic, I’m pretty ashamed that I at least didn’t wipe the grime off. Opps! But… here it is. This shot clearly illustrates the “factory drop” or curve to the 33 axle… which necessitates the 32 perches when running stock Model A brakes, due to the brake actuators. Note that the spacer is located on top of the axle… between it and the wishbone. If you put the spacer on the bottom of the axle, there is a very good chance that your spring will rub on it. Also, note in the pic… The cotter key (for the draglink ball) attached to the 32 spindle, is awfully damn close to the axle. Two guys have said that their spindle hits their axle at this point and asked about my setup. I have not altered my spindle arm, nor the axle. Your results may vary if the spindle arm has ever been tweeked… Luckily, mine worked fine, sorry for your luck if yers hits. If it does, I recommend you break out the hot wrench and gently persuade it in the up direction for ample clearance. Here is a before and after comparison shot. Next… we move to the back! To be cont…
^^^^^ I totally agree, I found the story a few nights ago when I just needed to read something interesting and this sure fit the bill. Bob
The Jalopy Journal
