If I remove every other leaf from each of my leaf spring packs in my '64 F100, how many inches lower would it get? Anyone who has done this kind of thing, please share your comments. Also, how much softer would the ride get? Would it be so soft that it would bottom out all the time? I'd like to lower my truck just a bit to take the edge off the "tippity-top" look, but don't want to spend any money on it (you know, the same old story). There are 6 leafs in the front springs and 5 leafs in the rear. Here's a few pics:
I did this to my '59 Chevy a few years back, pretty much did what this article says.... Decided to drop the front end on my stock suspension '56 TF pickup while I was doing a power steering upgrade. Before starting, I measured the distance from my shop floor to the inside edge of the front fender well (centered over the front wheel) on each side and recorded the measurement for comparison after finishing. After removing all the original steering components (column, gearbox, pitman arm, steering link, and driver's side upper shock mount), I removed the p***enger side shock and moved my jack stands from the axle to the frame. If you are doing a spring change only, you will still need to remove the pitman arm or steering link to have enough travel in the axle and also prevent any damage to your steering components. <o> </o> Starting with the driver's side I used large channel lock pliers to open-up the mild steel clips surrounding the springs. I then used a floor jack under the axle to support it as I unbolted the springs. I removed the front and rear U bolts holding the springs to the axle, then lowered the jack allowing the springs to separate (the U bolts are longer for the front of the axle for the lower shock mounts, be sure and remember this when reinstalling). There is a 5/16 fine thread bolt in the center of the springs (also centered over the axle) that holds them in alignment and compresses them (on my truck the driver's side was rusted into the axle, but the p***enger side popped-out when I lowered the axle). Carefully remove the nut from this bolt (spring leafs may still be compressed), then dis***emble the individual leafs in the originally ***embled order, don't mix them up! Wire brush and clean the threads on the U bolts and center bolt. I reused my U bolts, and had to 'chase' the threads with a die/thread restorer because with fewer leafs, the nuts will use more thread (mine were badly rusted, 'chasing' the threads cleaned/restored them so I could easily tighten them). <o> </o> I decided to remove the 3rd and 4th leafs (the first leaf being the longest and attached to the spring shackles on the frame, the sixth leaf being the shortest and resting directly on the axle). This left leafs 1, 2, 5 and 6. I wire brushed the rust off each leaf, then re***embled using a single strip of poly-liner (bought mine in a roll from Chevy Duty) between each leaf so they wouldn't squeak after re***embly. Rather than cut 2 strips per leaf, I cut a single length approx. 1-2 inches longer than the spring length, then drilled a hole in the liner for the centering bolt. <o> </o> To re***emble I simply stacked the leafs and poly-liner over the centering bolt, then carefully jacked up the axle making sure the centering bolt aligned with the first (longest) leaf. Reinstalling the centering bolt lockwasher and nut, I jacked the axle up even more to ensure the leafs were laying together correctly and make tightening the center bolt easier. Then I reinstalled the U bolts (using new lockwashers) and nuts. Again, make sure you install the longer of the U bolts in front of the axle and re***emble using the lower shock mounting bracket. Then using large channel lock pliers, rebend the mild steel clips to surround the springs. Lower and remove the floor jack and repeat these steps on the p***enger side. Reinstall your steering pitman arm or steering link. Once I let the truck down and looked things over, I had about 3-4 inches clearance between the springs and the rubber bumper bolted to the bottom of the frame rail. This may not sound like much clearance, but with new front shocks my springs dont come close when I bounce on the front bumper or drive over rough railroad tracks. <o> </o> I lower my front end almost 3 inches using this method and the ride was not adversely affected (in fact I think it rides smoother now). worked great, lowered it about 3 or 4 inches and road better....
I have removed leaves from some older Ford pickups.You have plenty of spring to work with. I would remove 2 leaves from each spring and go from there.Of course dont remove 2 leaves right together in the stack(maybe the second leaf below the main,then skip 1 or 2 and remove another one.)
Here's a pic of the rear: Thanks for your help so far. I just have a few more questions. - Do you think there would be any safety issues with supporting the truck on only a few leafs? - Would I encounter any steering issues like bumpsteer? I wouldn't think so, because lowering it would get the pitman arm even more parallel with the ground, which from what I have read, is what you want... I'm open to all advice. Thanks --Matt
You know what, tomorrow I think I will run by the hardware store and get some new U-bolts. I spent today pulling it all apart and playing around with different leafs to see what the end effect would be. With 2 leafs out, which seems to be what everyone suggests/has done, the leaf springs couldn't even support the truck. It just sat on the bumpstops? Is this because of the heavy 292? However, with 1 spring out (third from the bottom) it looked like this: And this is a picture of stock (the other side since I didn't touch it): Looks like 2 or 3 inches lower. If I were to cut the bumpstop down (about half), do you think that would be enough suspension travel clearance? Or could I go any lower by taking out a bigger leaf?
The original spring package is what Phord engineers determined to be needed to carry the weight of the truck and whatever you might haul. As you remove leaves you remove the capacity to safely haul anything heavier than a head of lettuce, and as you continue the removal process you compromise the safety of hauling the truck itself. At what exact point does this occur ? You probably won't know until something gives out. Lowering the rear is as easy as putting the springs under the axle. Does anyone make lowered spindles for the front ? My $0.02
...You still looking at lowering this thing? I recently come across someone on here that lowers the axles. Its worth the time and money. I lowered my '64 F100 the least $ way and it ****s. I wish i would have spent the money and time and had the axle lowered.
For upwards $300? I just don't know... _____ Okay, maybe I could simply flip a few leafs over the top of the main leaf in negative arch, and then clamp it all together. I think it would get it lower at the same time retain more of the original spring rate? Also, wouldn't it be less likely to crack, snap, or break than by removing leafs altogether?
Yesterday I decided to try the method of flipping one of the middle leafs over the main leaf in negative arc, and then clamping it all together. Not only does it better support the entire spring pack, but the truck dropped a few inches at the same time the ride got softer, yet not as soft as if leafs were removed altogether, which helps to keep from bottoming out. I took it for a drive and it held up just fine. Some road construction was going on on my road too, and even with all the torn up pavement, bumps and holes, it didn't bottom out. So I'm going to lower it another inch or two, and cut the bumpstop in half for clearance, and see how it goes from there. I'm going to do the rear too sometime in the next few days. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks --Matt
I know this is pretty old, how did this turn out? Got any pics and which leaf did you flip over? Was it just flipping one, or remove one and flip the other? Got a 64 F100 myself I want to do get down.
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