I never use gaskets on factory iron manifolds unless I'm running aluminum heads, which I have on my engine (ram horn manifolds). Any imperceptible leak would fill with carbon quickly. But glad you have it back together.
Nope, never. Just about any gasket set comes with them too. I have never had one leak from the head-exhaust manifold interface. Silicone will not hold up to the heat, or any other sealer I can think of.
I've only done maybe 40 of them so far and zero leaks. The mating surfaces are so good on both parts and any voids fill with carbon from the exhaust. But only with steel heads. I use gaskets with aluminum heads.
Update, hasn't smoked since then...Running like a champ! Good rumble and lope.A very very small stumble when flooring it from a dead stop. Might need to advance timing just a tad...
You say a small stumble. This could be the accelerator pump is good, but comes on a little late due to mis adjusted linkage or less often a low fuel float level. Ideally what you want is a steady even spray from isle to WOT. You can check manually with the car not running. Take the air cleaner off , open choke. Turn the main ****erfly linkage slowly and steadily thru the arc, you should see a steady squirt of gas. Look at accelerator pump linkage- does it move the pump right away? Is there slack or play before it activates the pump? Sent from my LG-TP450 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Why not just swap a vortec truck motor in it like every other one has? That’s how you fix a C10 nowadays, according to generation “tide pod.” All it needs after that is a bolt on bag kit and some giant solid steel wheels that look like **** and you’ll be on a magazine cover next month.
Thank god for that. I’ve seen enough of those cookie cutter builds that I could go the rest of my life without seeing one and be happy with it!
Just was wondering if anyone knows of a alignment shop that knows how to work on the older style suspensions here in Houston? I'm in the NW part of the city, tires have very bad inner wear and are getting worse. Thanks in advance.
Try the oldest truck shop in town, those guys are usually excellent on pickups. I had worked at a truck alignment shop for a while, saw some interesting stuff come in. I now borrow a rack at a friend's shop when I have to do an alignment for my own cars. Try to avoid getting ****ed into a shop with the 4-wheel systems, some won't let the car/truck off the rack unless all the green lights go on. They would be lost on an old car or truck. Inner tire wear indicates low camber. Look at the upper control arm bushings and see how many shims you have to play with, take a picture of both upper arms and report back.
Yes sir will do. Been raining out here so I will try and get a picture later this evening.Work nights so I will have to wait for my lunch break. I definitely think it probably needs a shim adjustment. Upper/lower ball joints have been replaced. As well as inner & outer tie rods along with the sleeves. Originally I just wanted to get it on the road and drive it for some time and see how it went. Been about 10 months now more or less. This was my main reason for not breaking down the entire suspension and replace everything like I had to do on my Falcon. I can do it but it takes time and right now my truck is my main form of transportation. I tell you sometimes it's a little rough driving older vehicles but I enjoy it too much to quit. Thanks, Mark
Sun came out for a little while today so I was able to get some pics. Looks like only 2 shims on each bolt for a total of 4 per shaft..?
Dropped some new tires on after going to another shop and their machine was down. Alignment issue has been killing me, truck is my only means of transportation so I had to do it. They said maybe in a week or two it will be fixed, hoping sooner than later so I can get it fixed once and for all. Dang kid at Discount Tires broke a wheel stud when I was there so I had to fix it. Went ahead and replaced one of my rear drums because it got chewed up with the damn new brake shoes came apart after completing my brake job and just getting all of them turned. I went to get the old one turned and guess what the machine was broke. Seems like any Auto parts you visited could turn drums. No it’s like 1 in 50. Only gripe is the new replacement drum didn’t come with an adjustment slot. WTH is up with that? Used to be you bought a replacement part and just needed to install, now you got to modify it too? Backing plate does not have one or even a knock out. Guess it’s time to break out the drill and dremmel...
You have to see which way the arm moves. Do you add of remove shims to get the camber more positive? Just look at it and you'll see what I mean. The problem lies when you have to remove shims are there aren't any. Look at all of your a-arm bushings.
Had to cut the adjustment slots in the new drums for my C10 also. Thats goofy business for sure. Sent from my SM-J727T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sent from my SM-J727T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app[/QUOTE] From what I can tell it’s got ne Roger that, definitely looks like a negative camber right now. Need to double check a-arm bushings as well. Thanks, Mark
If you can find a nice level spot, try to get something you can lay across the wheel (up and down) and see what the angle is, just approximately will give you an indication of how far negative it is. Those cheap protractors HF carries work pretty well. My brother uses his iPhone with a level app. We used that to set my engine in my car.
Picked up this 350 - 4 bolt main today...really would like to get SB 400 but this came up so I got it.
Been running through craigslist looking for a different set of heads to do a little work on and then install just for kicks to see if I can squeeze a little more power out the 283. Found some camel hump and even a set of power packs but no accessory holes. Any suggestions? Right now have a set of 307 heads on it.
The Jalopy Journal
