Projects 1932 frame with 1946 X-member build

I guess I must have shortened them as well as stepping them down. This is to place the rear spreader bar just clear of the rear of the body.


Twitter @edsrodshop

 

Well this is the new improved 1948 X-member install. This one took quite a bit longer than the last one because it was much more involved. However it also was built for a Flathead V8 mounted to a T5, with a banjo axle, thsi time with a vintage Halibrand quickchange and an open drive conversion. Rear axle location is by ladderbars. Front axle location by split 'bones. The chassis was built very tightly around the V8 and transmission leaving just enough room for shake.
You see with a short 106.5" wheelbase, long ladderbars and a long transmission there's not much room in the middle.
This is how it started off. One cherry 1948 frame.

 

This is the 1942-48 Ford X-member fitted into the 1932 frame. The rear kickup is cut and shut to match the 1932's less dramatic kickup. The front part of the X is shortened and narrowed where it flows back into the '32 frame. The central box is also shortened by removing a section of the X-rails and flipping them. Actually the '42-'48 X-member fits the '32 frame very easily. It seems impossible at first when you place the hugh X-member on top of your '32 frame but it does eventually fit.
The rear crossmember is a Model-A mounted behind the axle. The axle is a circa 1940 with the intergral springhangers.

 

In all these pictures it's still bolted together. I'll be riveting it up tomorrow, and maybe the day after too. There are 76 rivets to be placed.

As mentioned above, the long length of the ladder bars meant the rear legs of the X-member had to be as long as possible. They are in fact only a few inches shorter than stock. I took the metal out of the exhaust cut out oval towards the rear of the leg.

I also shortened the center box section by a few inches. The bottom plate which is flat was flipped upside down and is now the top plate. The recess for the wishbone ball was flipped to give clearance to the transmission.

The original upper plate is rounded. I flipped this upside down and also back to front. The new forward end was then modified to mount a transmission mount on it.

The extra hole on the drivers side is for the speedometer drive.

 

The 1940s Ford frames came with little cross supports to hold the side rails in place. They do add rigidity and do help. Therefore I refitted them too. They only need a little tweaking;-)

 

I chose to use a Model-A truck front crossmember for this build. They are a little deeper and fit the Deuce frame better. The valley doesn't need deepening to fit. I did remove the radiator stands and flipped them side to side to give the crossmember recessed radiator stands. This allows for a thicker rubber pad between the radiator and crossmember and allows the feet of the radiator to tuck in under the rails. The frame is slightly pinched up front.

I used 1942-48 Mercury engine mounts which only need a little modifying to fit. I think they look great. Like Henry made them. Well I guess he did too!

 

Very nice! Could you take some chalk and show us how and where the cuts/welds are on the '46 parts? It all looks like it just dropped into place, but we know it couldn't actually do that. Could it?

 

I actually started to make myself some patterns to help me next time but gave up. You see everyone is using a different set of mechanics. And therefore has to build his X around different obsticles. This one is way different to my last one. My next one will be different again.

Actually I'm starting on the next one as soon as this one is finished. It'll be under a low '27 T-roadster, with a nailhead, Dynaflow and Winters quickchange. And it's using a 1946 Mercury frame which is different again. It has the welded center section.

If that chassis I just finished had had a 3 speed Ford transmission in it, it'd be different again and would have been finished two weeks earlier! It depends on the pedals you're using, the steering, the headers.

I can tell you: it does all fall into place - in small pieces. Build it around all your components and allow room for them to move.

 

Hi Ed,
You are building some cool and interesting projects !

Michael

 

Edward, thank you so much for posting these pictures. Really nice work. So cool to see these familiar Ford shapes being rearranged and reused. Would love to see pics with the rear end and ladder bars in place.

 

Nice work again, Ed. I must clear some room at home and start putting mine together.

 

And here are the pictures of the finished frame. Lots of rivets in this one. I hope these pictures will help other rodders use the underrated and most often discarded 1942-48 Ford frames.

 

This frame was built to replace an original 1932 frame which had been boxed and had a tubular X-member and welded in front and rear crossmembers. It hadn't been very well done and was ugly.

 

Before I rivet the parts together, I spray a good quality exhaust paint on the mating surfaces. This will withstand the heat from heating up the rivets and offers a bit of rust protection to the surfaces which will later be unpaintable.

 

I used a forty X-member on my 32 frame, had the brake set-up too. I also used both forty cross-members and flattened them to set the height where it needed to be. I like the 36-37 rear bones for the rear suspension for the 50's traditional build. Nice job on your build, keep us posted!

 

Love the build. I'm just doing a friends 42 Chevy PU and using a 46 Olds centre X-member that allowed me to use OEM trailing arm suspension, modified for 9" and coil overs. Something different.

 

Ed,
IMO this is the best frame you have Done so far, And you have beat me to it....Were you able to use the 46 pedal set with this config? I love your attn to detail, And you are truly a craftsman when it comes to building a 32 frame. I would not call this frame a traditional frame, As I have never seen anyone else use this much of a 41-46 X-member in a 32 frame. "Traditional" would be the same old boring stuff, This frame is anything but boring. Because you only posted a few pics of it, Alot of guys can't see just how many mods were made to make this work so well. But I myself have chopped up a 46 X-member and used it in a 32 build. However yours is much more complicated and detailed than the one I done. I love the idea of using only factory period parts. And I also love the fact that it is not the same frame every other traditional built 32 has under it. I realize that to many guys this is just another 32 Chassis, But As a chassis builder stuff like this sets the bar. Atleast for me anyhow. Job well done!!

 

I really appreciate the feedback. I am quite aware it's my finest frame to date. I put four weeks extra unpaid work into that frame to make it like that. I don't mind admitting, I shed a tear when my customer drove off with it.
But it was a learning process and the next one will be quicker. Yes, of course I used the stock '48 pedals. They're so lovely. They just need bending slightly inwards towards the steering column to fit into the tighter confines of the '32.

To be totally traditional, we'd have to throw away our welders and all electric and air powered tools, and build our cars without using the internet.

 

Nice! Great ideas.