I am building a traditional style bow top for my roadster (car is sort of early 50's style). I cut the windshild down by eye, something like a 3 3/8 chop and laid it back an inch. I bought a stock repop top kit from LeBaron Bonney and fabricated the bows and frame down to fit (sectioned everywhere). Now that the bows and frame are done I have a local buddy that has a trim shop and speacializes in convertable tops and will be doing the material. The problem is that he's a shoebox/muscle car guy and doesn't really know the details of how roadster tops were done, especially in a traditional way. Although I have an idea I'm not even sure myself so I'd like to get some pics, especially up close, detailed, and inside for reference. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This is '31 info, not '32, but most things are done about the same way: http://www.abarnyard.com/roadster/roadster.shtml Scroll down to the "details" section, top in and out. Stock '32 tops have LOTS of little details and tricks in the construction of the cloth parts, like the way back window can be swung up, pads, flaps, etc. You really need to find a complete roadster to look over! It's possible that best way might be to buy the top cover and pad kit and just have your guy rip out the seams and use it as raw material to be adjusted.
Here's the top that Dick Rodwell came up with to go with his curved-glass windshields for '32 roadsters. The tops and the windshields are described on http://www.roadsters.com/rodwell/ I like the lines of these tops. I've asked him to also build tops for '32s with stock-style windshields, and he will someday. Dave http://www.roadsters.com/
I just finished installing a LB 32 top on my 31 roadster with a 3" chop and forward rake PM your e-mail address and I can send some pics. They're too large to post on here, and I'm too ignorant to reduce them. Did LB not send the instruction sheet with the top? If I can do it with no prior experience, your buddy should breeze on with it. It's basically 7 major pieces that have to go on in a specific sequence. One tip: use a pneumatic stapler instead of the tacks.
The details I mentioned are mostly nifty but not necessary. What is necessary is to get the padding right. I've seen streetrods with no or badly done pads, and they have the classy look of a sack of potatos.
Did you use 32 top irons? Looks to me like sectioning 2" out of the single horizontal bar that connects to the windshield post would do it. Sent the pics to me, I'll resize and post. C9Mach@msn.com
Thanks! If i have the file here at work, otherwise tonight from the house. I used the 31 irons. Unfortunately the 32 irons were a little different and the 32 top leaves a brace exposed, but to the unwashed it isn't obtrusive. I cut 3" off the main irons where they mount to the body for the height, and about 2" off the horiz side bars that rivet to the cast corner pieces for the rake. I also lowered the #2 bow some, and this required recontouring the short pieces that it attaches to. New top on an old car, but I got tired of battling the elements after 10 years.
I need one of those Rodwell tops. Tired of getting rained on. Gotta save some cash before getting drowned again.
When I did my last top I did the irons and bows to the shape I wanted and took the trimmer top pictures of the Veda Orr roadster and the Bob McGee Roadster. He used them as to get an idea of the details I wanted.
I Sorry, but the top I have is for a Rodwell windshield which is not only laid back but has. a curve in it. A stock style windshield will not work.