Hi there everyone! I have been on a Hiatus as business has kept me busy but starting to finally slowed down. These are two new Old Stock Carter Webber's from Tom Langdon. They have no more than 10 miles on them. carburetor A is towards the radiator and Carter carburetor B is back by the firewall. If I run this vehicle off of carburetor number A it actually runs pretty good. As soon as I connect carburetor number B I start having issues. So I disconnected the linkage on both and this is what I found. What do you think is the issue with carburetor B? Thanks in advance and looking forward to hearing back from my friends.
Sounds like Carb B doesn't have fuel, as to why you'll have to take it apart. If you try to roll into the throttle slowly does it respond? If it sputters at just the 'tip in' of the throttle then that is fuel coming thru the transition slot and fed by the idle ckt. Can you see fuel thru the squirters when you look down in it and hit the throttle? It sounds to me like the squirters are spraying but the transition ckt isn't supplying fuel.
If you gradually increase the throttle it will do the same thing. Yes, I can see gas being squirted out of a jet. I am not a pro or have ever rebuilt a carburetor before.... I was just hoping since this was new I would not have to do such a thing. ;(
If it what I suspect a 'rebuild' won't help. It sound slike something in the idle circuit itself. The idle circuit restrictor supplies fuel for both idle richness and the 'transition slot' - if you flip the carb over the transition slot is just above the throttle blades, as the blade sweeps across it fuel pulled out from the vacuum (kinda), if there isn't enough fuel to supply the transition slot circuit then you'll have a stumble even with fuel coming out the squirters. Just for conversation sake, swap the front and rear carbs to see if the problem stays with the carbs, if it does then you'll have to become an expert at diagnosing the idle circuit. Carbs are cantankerous, I might be wrong.
It seems I read on several threads on different forums that this problem is caused by trash in the carbs. Tom seemed adamant about using a good fuel filter for the carbs. One thread I read, the guy kept arguing with Tom about trash in the carbs, he finally took them apart and lo and behold found something in the carb causing the problem. Do a Google search and I'm sure you will find the posts I am referring to.
So if this can't be rebuilt you're just saying that this carburetor is no good? Not a great feeling if this is true based on what I spent on this setup.
Anytime someone says "old stock" on a carb, how long has it been sitting around? Agreed 100% in that it could be trash or dirt in the carb and especially so if you don't have a good inline filter. I put an inline filter between the tank and fuel pump on everything I build and if It is an old tank that has been sitting around I usually carry a supply of filters with me as old tanks tend to shed trash and dirt for a few hundred miles before they get cleaned out and this alcohol laced gas seems to like to loosen crud from the sides and bottom of the tank that has been there for years. I'm going to suggest taking the carb to the local carb expert if after you do the switch places thing that oj suggested if it doesn't work. I don't see that one as one a guy who has never touched a carb before being one to start on.
Hmm, interested in seeing what you find. I too have heard of the crap in the bowls on these carbs new. I have a set on my truck and they were sitting around for about a year on my bench prior to installing. No issues at all, but I might have gotten lucky. I know that Langdon closed doors but I wonder if he would still answer email? He helped me multiple times when I built my six.
I don’t want to sound like Captain Obvious but have you synchronized the two carbs to run together properly I personally don’t know how to do it but I know there’s some kind of tool that you hook up so you can make both carbs run together without sputtering and stalling
I haven't excellent inline filter have changed it out twice and a new gas tank. So the issue is not there.
The circuit is a simple one. I'm no expert on the weber but if you have ppics of it apart on your bench I can walk you thru it. Idle circuits are the sam ein all carbs, thye just configure it different, it'll start down in the fuel with the 'idle restrictor' probably about .028 or .031 hole, you spot that and then just follow the circuit to its' termination in the base plate. Common sense and a can of carb cleaner with that little straw to spray and you're in business. Won't even need any gaskets. Again, I may well be wrong, it is a carburetor after all.
Tom still answers the phone. In fact my cell phone called him the other day; which I caught after it dialed, so I hung up and Tom called me back.
Actually heard back from Tom and he really thinks it is a clogged jet / some debris in the bowl. He states that it sounds like there's plenty of air going in but not enough gas and why it's bogging down.
Took the carb top off and it really didn't look too bad but after cleaning the Jets and blowing it out good with compressed air it's running like a champ now. Thanks for the help everyone! I will consider this thread officially closed.
Had almost the same experience with those carbs from Tom and once I got the right filter and trash out of the carb things have been fine. Really made my old wagon perform
Had the small air cleaners that Tom sells but after returning this year from the hot rod power tour I decided to make a better mouse trap so I started with a 69 big block tri power vette air cleaner and made a new base and added a fresh air inlet and some carb inlets and now I have cool air to my carbs
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