I have found a company that will build us some caps they just need one of my old ones. How manny off you guys need some. And what do we think we can afford to pay. We are just in the talking stages they need the cap before they can give me a price. Iam thinkng it will cost 100.00 or possabaly a little more. What do you think. JIM Grant Spalding Flame Thrower Dist. I know there has been a lot of talk abught the dist caps and rotors for these distributors. And some talk of making them. Just wanted to know? Has anybody done any reaserch on who made them for spalding or grant. the caps all have the same part # 3505 and type # SI-303 they also say SPALDI O PRODS. The zero is right where the screw hole is drilled to hold cap on. I am sure it said ng in that spot. There is also an R with a circle around it right below the hole. THe caps look the same just mount opeisit each other. Anybody have any ideal where to start. maybe the molds are still out there. I love these maybe because there called Flame throwers. Some of you young guys with them there computer and typing skills any help would be great. thanks jim
Some of the early Spalding caps have a decal inside that indicates the torque spec on the cam center bolt....don't think the Grant's have it. I have also seen the Grant caps both painted and chrome. .
TTT yea i know these are really cool dists. but does any one know who made the cap and roters for spalding or grant. does the R with the circle around it mean anything. thanks jim
Rumor had it that Billy Belmont was working on some replacement caps or had a source for some originals..... but that was some years ago and I never heard anymore about it. I think the caps were originally off some 4cyl British motor but my memory is not what it used to be....... .
That's it. Not sure why but I think they stopped putting that decal in the Grant caps. ...one of the cool features of the Spalding- since the rotor is below you can run it with the cap off and watch the points operate. .
...one of the cool features of the Spalding- since the rotor is below you can run it with the cap off and watch the points operate. Funny you should say that, yesterday I was trying to figure away to mount a curved gl*** cover for the top cap, from an old SW tack..............
********************************************************************* Right on. I've attached my dwell meter to one point set at a time, makes for a nice distributor machine right on the engine! (too bad you can't get an accurate reading of advance sweep, also...but the hot spark (!) made up for accuracy of timing moment) That S/W convex gl*** could be 'notched' on the sides for the screws, and a bezel made from stainless, hammered over a hard buck. (think of a '32 taillight bezel) And a flat gasket, similar to one in an oil filter cannister... Brilliant idea, that convex gl***...
..that would be pretty cool. I remember watching an old timer drill a hole in gl*** using some sort of diamond dust or paste and a little dam made out of clay to keep it around the (hollow?) drill...or do what A****er said and maybe grind some notches...post some pics if you do it. .
"Sealed Power" here on the HAMB has cast some repops in urethane. Not really "correct", but would work in a pinch. Certainly much less expensive than having "correct" repops die-cast.
In that case, check with "Fox Valley Hot Rods" (Matt Werksman). He'd mentioned reproducing the terminal plates and rotor in a previous thread. Given my experience, I'd agree with ***essment that producing the parts would be more involved and expensive than most people would think. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90135
The company i am talking to already makes British & aricraft caps. this design looks a lot less complecated than they do? jim
I also cast a few of the terminal caps. Here are pictures of a couple of them along with the br*** inserts that are cast into the caps. I did these using a multipart silicone mold with aluminum and stainless steel locating dowels cast into the mold.
Are you gonna have the old Grant logo type made, or the later spaldings? I would take two if they are gonna be the early grants?--
Nice. Are those urethane or some sort of phenolic (such as Bakelite)? I'm ***uming they're the former, right? Opposite way around. The 'G' caps are the later caps, while the "blank" caps with the small Spalding text are the earlier ones.