Does anyone have experience with these from years ago ? So about 30 yrs ago, I put the adapters on my Model A street rod. Uses 65-67 T-Bird or Galaxie brake rotors to 37-48 Ford spindles. Consisted of an inner adapter that had to be heated to 150* to go on, and a sleeve for the outer bearing. Has worked well over the years, but after the car sat for about 15 years, I figured it needed to be checked and bearings repacked. Well, they didn't want to come off. After I got the outer bearings out, I gave it a big pull and the wheel popped off, and left the inner bearing still stuck on the adapter/spindle. The bearing should have just slid on the the adapter, but while trying to "persuade" it to come off, the roller bearing came apart. Now I'm committed to changing the bearing, but still can't get it off. I've soaked it good with PB Blaster, and took a propane torch to it a few times, but nothing. The inner part of the bearing that's left won't turn on the adapter, and the adapter itself won't move either. Speedway doesn't make these anymore, and someone there suggested the heating approach. Just using propane has turned the bearing part blue. Can the spindle itself be damaged by heating it ? (all I have anymore is propane) Anyone else with experience getting these off ?
I have removed a lot of stuck on bearings, with and without the adaptor spacer. I cut about 95% through the bearing race with a cut off blade in my die grinder and then take a fairly blunt chisel and usually the race will split with a few wacks with a heavy hammer.
I had given that some thought, but just not that confident in my "control" with the die grinder. If I hit the adapter part, then I'd have to go with a whole new set-up, and everything I see uses GM rotors and calipers. I was really trying to keep it "all Ford". And "aFord-able".
Just be real slow and careful with the grinder you can sneak up on it very slowly you wont screw it up.
Try one of these along with some quick heat on just the bearing race. Should get the race far enough away from the adapter to get a gear puller on it. Good luck!
Use a right angle grinder and carefully grind the race thin , it will change colors (blue) , once it does . You do not have to grind all the way through , the thinner you grind it the easier to crack it . The blunt chisel and a 3 lb machinest hammer will crack the race and off the stubborn ******* comes . Don’t expect it to split wide open , just a hairline crack and it belongs to you ! It sounds dangerous as in hitting the spindle adapter , take your time and you will never look back and wonder how in Gods name can I get this off again , you will have learned what took most of years of disbelief that it will work . Good look , always wear your PPE . Splitting the race can and will usually send chips flying . Tell us how you do with it .
Heat it up as much as you can and hit it with a sharp chisel every 90 degrees, so in four spots, and it will expand and slide right off, not trying to chisel through it, just a sharp blow. Edit: heat it as much as you can with what you currently have. Not a real torch! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Got the first one off last night by using a half inch chisel tapping against the outer lip about every 90*. The mating surfaces did not show signs of rusting. On to the other side, before I go start buying more tools or parts. Thanks for all the encouragement and ideas.
Yea ! the other side came off with no problems. On to the next "challenge" ! Anyone have a 67 Ford turn signal switch ?? (Well, first have to be sure all 4 pistons are working on each caliper.... )
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