Hot Rods Low Dollar Independent Rear End

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-stump-puller-otherwise-known-as-the-odd-rod.988007/

 

please forgive the ****py pictures, I used my cell phone..

 

If you have the equipment and skill to do that, it might be "Low Dollar". Take that picture to a shop and I think you will find a junk yard IRS is way cheaper.

 

Tom Beatey built several of these like the one above in his belly tank, I had one that I sold to the 38 Ford Bonneville racer Chuck Edall about 2001.

 

That looks like a under construction photo of Don Tognotti's "King T". The June 1964 issue of R&C has an article on the car and the rear end looks the same but was finished in chrome and disc brakes.

 

How does one Identify the 92 to 96 xjs units? Any handy visuals? Are bearings or any parts exceptionally expensive? Thinking of using one under a little roadster -

 

What is a "little roadster"?

 

Simple; it has outboard discs, rather than the inboard ones. But don't turn your nose up at the earlier units because of the inboard brakes, they can be converted to outboard by using bolt-on XJ40 sedan brakes/uprights/axles which aren't hard to find.

Part expense? Well, if planning a complete overhaul with all new parts, yeah, it won't be particularly cheap but not outrageously so. But these rarely give trouble in street use, and most you'll find will have no more than 100K miles on them, a lot of time less. These have greaseable roller bearings at the swingarm pivot points and outer stub axles (the only rubber is the control arms and cage mounts), so major wear isn't usually an issue. Brake parts (the major 'consumables') are readily available and not all that expensive.

There's always dead Jags on CL, usually with electrical or engine issues. My experience is many owners ask stupid prices, but after sitting on them long enough will see reason... LOL.

 

WTH? - all other things being equal, inboard brakes are much better than outboard.

 

Except for serviceability and potential cooling issues. I guess the serviceability (cost) is why it isn't more common.

 

Technically, yes. In 'normal' use, the Jag inboard brakes are very good, reliable brakes. Service can be a PITA, most Jag owners 'drop the cage' for that, so in an aftermarket application you want to give some thought to mounting/brake access. But they do have an issue with excessive 'spirited' driving, as they've been known to cook the axle seals and then spew 90 weight onto the rotors. A big part of the problem is on a Jag, they're tucked up under the body and get poor airflow. If racing is the game, you need to duct cool air to them.

But before you condemn them, keep in mind they were good enough to win several world championships and the fact that the Jag V12 cars weighed two tons. They'll hold up better in a lighter car...

 

Latest craze is to mix Jag IRS parts, using the as you speak of, normal/early Jag IRS but move the rear brakes out board by taking advantage of a later model XJ40 setup.
Works a treat and park brake is much better in the later model as it is drum style inside the outer disc brake.
All you need is the outer hub and brakes from the new model and adapt it to the original style shaft and lower arm.
This then provide you with a better park brake that is a drum type fitted inside the rear out board disc.

 

It's starting to look like some people have been doing it for a few years.

 

that says it all!!!

 

Get the XJ40 axle shafts and it's a bolt-on.....

 

A looooong looooong time ago late 60's Vinnie Napp of the Englishtown raceway family Napp's had a 32 Ford roadster with a very very narrowed 9" Ford rear with drum brakes and drive shafts bolted to the wheel flange and swing arms maybe Corvette. It was a black roadster that sat fairly low for that era build. A beautiful car.

Pat

 

The problems with the Lincoln/T-Bird rear suspension are many... One, they're not self-contained, you'll have to fabricate upper spring/shock mounts. Two, they're too wide for many vintage cars and don't lend themselves to narrowing, and the high positive-offset wheels they use only makes this worse. Three, they're actually harder to work on compared to the Jags (except maybe for the Jag inboard brakes). Four, they come with an undesirable wheel bolt pattern (4.25 on 5) that severely limits wheel choices and isn't cheap or easy to change unless you use adaptors. And five, they're not as sturdy as the Jag units in higher-power applications.

 

If you're determined to use this, I'll make you a deal on a pair of 4.25 to 4.5 on 5 wheel adaptors, 1" thick.... $50 plus shipping...

 

Do they come with a quick-change option?

 

LOL - just dont try to buy any OEM-style replacement airbags...