I have a Manley forged crank 4.00 2pc. main and a mcleod alm. 168 tooth flywheel it seems there is about an 1/8th inch gap between the flange on the crank and the back of the flywheel? (back meaning toward block and not the clutch side) Is this normal was it fully seated? I used ARP bolts for hardware. When the flywheel was torqued it sat flush with the END of the crank flange and the FACE of the flywheel (clutch side) and the bolts went through if they go any further it would hit the back of the block. I only noticed the gap after I put the clutch on and starter on and thought... that is strange?
wrong, look into it further before continuing. as you said when it was torqued down it was flush and now its backed away 1/8"?? Kind of hard to believe or understand. Did you torque the bolts to the shoulder because the bolt shank was too long and you are not clamping the FW down with the bolt head?? did you use washers under the bolt heads?? . Washers for aluminum and no washers for steel
I'm not sure he's saying the flywheel has moved back after he torqued it down. If that IS what's being said, then that is hard to believe. If you're saying it is not going on all the way, then you have a parts compatibility problem. Not exactly sure what the difference is, but there's differences in rear snouts, blocks, and flywheels on 1 piece vs. 2 piece rear seal engines.
He has to have compatible parts because a two piece seal crank will not accept a one piece flywheel, the bolt circle is a smaller diameter on the one piece seal flywheels and flex plates. The wording is hard to follow, I’m not sure what the issue is.
Sorry for the confusion I will post pictures in a few. The ARP hardware said not to use washers. Its the pro series 12 pt. style. The flywheel said it was for a 2pc. main seal as well, they are compatible. 560130 FW part # 190130 CS part #
Dont get confused with the block plate for the scatter shield. But the Crank flange has the drop of lock tight dripping down on it on to the flywheel. you will see the gap.
So the bolts aren't tight? You backed off because the bolts hit the block? Do the threads run the full length of the nominal diameter, up to the bolt head? My understanding is the bolts are too long and hit the block and are tight (or were) and did not pull the flywheel down completely. I say use a washer and see how that looks. Then decide to modify the bolt or keep the washer.
the bolts are tight and they they all went on easily they did not hit the block. I just took the PP and clutch off and the weird thing is the flywheel IS sitting flush up against the flange because there is no gap between the dowel/roller alignment pin. But why would there be a space in the rear? Does everybody understand now? hahaha
Maybe it's just the chamfer on the crank? The gap I see in the pic looks like something on the block side, like back of the crank and something, I can't tell. It's like an illusion!!
yeah the gap on the counter weight maybe its the way its machined. I know its hard to tell let me edit one of the pics. The block plate is just hanging on the dowel pins done worry about that that's why it looks crooked. Its seated flush.I just want to know what the gap is?
Remove every other bolt look in the bolt holes and see it the flywheel is against the crank. Check run out.
The machined flange that the f/w seats against is proud of the counterweight, I believe what you are seeing is the gap between the counterweight and the flywheel. I think there is no issue. When I first looked at it I also thought the f/w was cocked, but your photo with notations cleared that up.
Ok in the back of my mind I was thinking maybe its just the way the counterweight sits. I guess when I drop the hammer at 6k we will see haha. I want to thank everyone for their help.
The Jalopy Journal
