Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

I am fabricating a left door win Dow regulator for my 33 Chevy 5 window coupe. I have the original right side. Using an early VW replacement regulator for parts. I needed the handle gear piece. I cut a new sector gear using a temples I made from the right side and my band saw and a file. Interestingly the gears are the same as a VW ind a dodge regulator I have. So here is a picture.

 

have had a few cooler days this week and allowed me to make some progress on certain areas of SHAZZBOTT my 35 chevy roadster.

I was talking to a restoration shop a couple of years ago about how to go about the rebuild of this mess. Peter said to start at the absolute front , rad shell and go to hood then cowl section. I have the cowl mounted on the wood frame sills, a big 1/2" drift thru the L bracket into the steel frame hole.
I want to line up the rad shell , hood and cowl, so I can close the hood top to cowl and side hood panels to the cowl and get the gaps set fairly close. I place the hood onto the cowl and rad shell and move the rad shell around to adjust gap. I try using the 5/8" rad shell to cowl adjuster rods, but its too long. Out they come and take 3/8" off each one, left and right hand threads. Re-install but will need another 1/4" off them . Get really close , this is it next step.

Take my 1/4" thick billet aluminum firewall plate and put into place. Huuuuum, the large Larson valve covers rub the firewall plate. The Larsons ended up having to be flipped around to move the covers away from the side of the hood panels, because they were right against them in the corners. The large -12AN black hose end is what I am going to use as a vent for the motor. I will make a 1--1/2" round aluminum tube and tap it for an AN -6 fitting that a smallish motorcycle air breather filters 2 , will fit onto. Kinda trick idea.

Pull motor and trans forward slightly allowing me to get finger in between valve cover and plate. Check intake at carb mount with degree level, perfect at 90 degrees. Drop the tail shaft lower and get 3 degrees.

Now we head inside cowl and want to place the door post bracketry screwed onto the floor sill and the post with #12... 3/4" wood screws. This locks in the cowl placement.
Next we dig out the left and right side floor angle pieces that attach to the cowl with 5/16 button head allen heads screwed into 1/4" cage nuts.. these are nuts with cages GM used by making square hole and squishing them into place. Gm used these all over the place on these early cars. .

I then placed the cherry wood in place and trimmed it around the transmission. I had the whole floor made in cherry wood and it was flat and perfect. Then I got this idea, why not go to a 6 speed stick Tremec magnum. Well that bout of insanity continues to drive me nuts, but I made a decision so, suck it up buttercup !

That caused all kinds of grief, hacking up and re-engineering the X member, trying to fit floor pedals, booster and master and slave cylinder for clutch. As you can see the damn thing sits up and no way to get it down low. Going to be some kind of tunnel consul , plus the shifter sits right where the front of the seat is, almost. I already shifted the shifter 5" forward on the mount flip.

Next up get hood off and rad shell and store in shed. Get back to locating floor pedals and make the brake pedal shift over to the left , so it lines up the original metal floor plate for column and pedals. After that it will be the side motor mounts welded to frame sides and finish the trans mount. As long was we have a little cooler temps its easy to work without sweat dripping into your eyes.

I also test fitted a pair of NOS frame wood covers , in beige. These were wrongly listed as 32 chev, but I recognized them from my coupe. Nice to score on the cheap once in a while.

mike lynch.....madmike3434

 

Thanks for sharing pics, nice seeing someone else about as far along as me

 

Our Inlines club held a swap meet at a friends shop yesterday. Here are some pictures of the 1919 Chevy dirt track racer he almost has ready for the road. The engine is a '25 Chevy with a '19-'22 Olds 3 port head.

 

six ball that's really neat !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the aluminum parts they some sort of valve covers ?

mike

 

Yes, He made them. Those early Chevy fours didn't have as valve covers as we think of them now. They're mostly to keep dirt and dust off of the rockers but they didn't seal the oil at the bottom. I got his last Olds head yesterday along with a custom set of rockers and push rods. Also a great tight steering box with a very good steering wheel and all of the controls.

 

I was a whole lot farther along with flat wood complete floor trans mount for 700R4 and other stuff, until I lost my mind and decided I wanted to go to tremec magnum 6 speed stick . That set me back six months and just now working thru it.

Happiness is staying with an original plan and not changing.

mike lynch

 

changes are expensive and costly. i have a friend who builds high end custom homes, once the plans are approved by the home owner he charges $500 to make a change to the plan......any change. i asked him if that covered the annoyance of going through the process? he replied "no, it just stops them from making lot's of little unneccessary changes"

 

SO MAYBE I SHOULD BE FINING MYSELF...........THATS A GOOD IDEA, LIKE A SWEAR JAR. PRETTY SOON WOULD HAVE NO MONEY ............LMAO

MIKE

 

No Mike, You would have enough money in the jar to start another project and make changes in it too. You might have to sell the first project to afford the changes in the second one.
I just went out and bolted the new steering column in the roadster frame. It feels like new. Those things don't have a center they just keep on turning. Both leavers work and the horn button feels like it should. I think I can make the column lock work if someone can cut a key. I had planned on using something else because I never though I find enough parts to make it worth while. That's the most progress Ive made in a while.

 

Mike Rouse,thank you very much ,I really appreciate the info and pictures....I checked your website,very nice work man

 

Oh that's my problem No plan lol

 

always wanted a 32 chevy roadster ????? hiboy. An experi-metal "main body" complete has appeared on ebay. Comes with windshield posts chopped 2", top bows and irons. They offered these from late 80's to early 90's before going bankrupt. Seller in California is the original buyer of it.

They originally produced, hoods , fenders, running boards, gas tank cover. A lot of small makers got to produce parts for the project and apparently only made 200 of them according to seller

I would have to find the original catalogue I bought a couple of years ago, but I think they were working on ROADSTER PICKUP also. Wheres that catalogue

mike lynch............. madmike3434

 

I am fabricating some of the missing parts for my window regulators on my ‘33 coupe.
This is the latest couple of parts. They are to be attached to the bottom of the door glass and connect to the regulator arm. I fabricated them from 18 ga galvanized sheet and used stainless steel fasteners.

 

Hi mike

Found it and an artickel in Street Rodding.
Too bad they got financial problems.
Dan

 

INSPECTOR..........we all know that if it was the OTHER 32 brand they would still be in business.

I know people that are 4 letter word crazy, and think nothing was ever made before 1932 or after , that was worth owning , building, or being seen in. They pray at the temple of the 4 letter car maker and look down their nose at what we prefer, bowties vs blue oval.

I like to close the door of my 35 std coupe right next to one of them and listen to my thump, click, without the tin can clang of their beloved cars doors we all hear..

Actually my 35 phaeton does that too, I nice solid sound.

what year and month was the article printed in STREET RODDING

mike lynch

 

My 28 business coupe turned roadster. Great little runner. Still excited to about those 6 lug firestone airpalloon wheels.
-Markus, from Finland

 

That is very nice. Tell us about the engine please. What was done to the inside of it? How much do you drive it?

 

TIPPA................very cool roadster now.. I really like that factory sunburst pattern in the firewall, wish my 35 standards had room for that .

Nice green colour on the engine, whats it from ????

What happens to the tail light when the rumble seat lid is opened. Is it on a hinge ?

mike lynch

 

Since the car is a '28 the engine is probably the 171 four it came with. The pictures don't show the exhaust side to tell for sure. "28s had two exhaust ports the rest had one. The Olds head, often used on hot rods, had three. I'd like to know more about the engine and running gear.

 

This was my starting point for the 28 two year ago. Bought it as an unfinnished project from an old timer. Original 171 banger was allready rebuild. Atleast thats what he told me, and the engine also looked really fresh from the inside. Bone stock except i made intake for holley 94, added electric fuel pump and four blade fan for better coolant . Torque of that little engine is quite amazing.
Transmission and rearend are also bone stock. New bearing all around and nos pinion and ring gear at back.
Not that much of a hotrod except for the looks. Been driving it by summer almost dayly. Not for the highway, but great for smaller roads. Seems to be impossiple to find longer differential ratio.

Dont know what color code the block is painted with.

Taillight just passes by. Home made trunk lid hinges.

Added also pictures of interior.

Just listed it for sale here in Finland. Upcoming project needs funds, but lets see what happens.

-Markus Helminen

 

Agree, do not know the month but the year is 1984.
do not have the whole issue. The soul (Wood) is still in my car

 

Markus, Thanks for the pictures and information. That is a nice car. You started with something pretty nice. I can almost hear the restorer crowd crying from here. It has some beautiful wood. Those little engines have a lot of potential but it's a lot of expensive work. I wish it was closer.

 

Markus, very cool little Chevy! Looks like a fun one to drive the back roads with.
Tom

 

TIPPA .....gotta ask about the lower seat cushion, man your down on the floor. Is that straight foam or there any springs involved ? The column is up high and so is wheel, does this make the car awkward to drive ?? Sure looks trick.
mike lynch

 

Mike, seat cushion is just hightensity foam. Had to make it really low because of the low top.
Lowering steering colum is on "to-do" list. Can live whit it, shorter guys might have trouble.

 

Jumped in my S10 early Thursday morning and made my way across border to Brockport NY, arrived 4 hours later. Purpose of visit to my friend Steve was to pick up my 1934-1935 Chevrolet standard series pair of rear fenders. Fenders were shipped to him thru UPS out of Tenn. $281.00 shipping cost, hate to have shipped here and all their extra charges , which is why I make the drive. Round trip including lunch with steve and stop at Cracker Barrel for nic nacs.

The right rear fender is NOS as you can see by the inside of it, has a few dents that can be worked out. The left side is going to need a lot more work to repair, I may just sell it

mike lynch

 

With the break in the weather from stinking hot and unbearable humidity a little cold goes a long way to getting back at it.
Took the front inside frame rails out of my 35 Chevrolet frame after I set it up for a sbc with side motor mounts tacked in the metal and was off to see friend rick the welder who is a pro so will let him handle it for me.

Once back I decided to remove all the 3/8 coarse welding plates I had inside the frame , to bolt it together to replace the rivets. Will install button head allen heads , grade 8 washers and nylocks inside instead, like I did to my coupes chassis.
With all the stuff going on garage area is in chaos, time for major cleanup , AGAIN

mike lynch

 

Lucky you cant see my garage your are clean

 

Happy the fenders made the trip without any damage.