Projects Cheap altered build - Topolino.

Just agreed to buy this project. Its an 50s Topolino with a 30s front. A "half" frame, Anglia front end, etc....I will build a cheap racer out of it to run in the local nostalgia classes. Not a Hemi powered monster on nitro
However, what route should i go for chassis? Its not much, i know, but its a start...
The little thats left of the cage will of course be thrown out. How about the rest of the frame? Keep it, or build a new square frame? Rear axle? Wheel and tire size for the rear?

Just need some good ideas. Thx in advance.

 

Nice project, btw there is no such thing as a 'cheap altered'. I'd be contacting SFI Foundation, and purchase the proper set of plans/specs for building an Altered. Get the set good for 7.50 and slower (unless you plan for AA, then 6 seconds). Follow them and get it certified, then you'll have the real deal and protect your investment.

 

Put a 4 cylinder in it. Something like a Chevy II or Mercruiser. Keep it in the 10's or slower. You can cut the cage out of it. Minimal safety stuff at that et. If you try to go faster you need a roll bar or cage up to those specs. A not approved cage will mean you can't run no mater what the et. If you have never raced before 10.00 will seem fast. No NHRA license required either.
Those engines are kind of cheap to build. They use mostly available internals and only 4 holes to buy parts for.
Leave it on springs, not solid mount rear, with that engine it will not break much. You can race every week.

 

I helped a friend run a 32 Bantam with a very modestly built 396 at it easily ran into the 9's. We had to throttle stop it to keep it 10.0 or slower due to not wanting to get a license. It doesn't take a lot of engine to make a light weight altered scoot. You might even be able to keep it street able and still run low 10's if you wanted.

 

What are the drag strip rules line in Norway as far as build specs and times?

 

yep, need to build according to rules/requirements of your local Nostagia Drag Racing Association - great body style to start with - I think that most of us start a build with "cheap & easy"

 

What you choose for the engine will determine what your going to need for the rear end, gearbox and chassis.

Give us more to go on to help.

As "Finch6013" said, a good old stock-ish V8 will make it plenty quick.

How fast do you want to go?

 

I cant afford the real deal. It will be more like a bracket car with a sbc or something else cheap that comes my way. A 10-11sec car, just to play.
I've gone 9.0@1/4 in a slingshot, but i guess its unfair to compare it with a short wheelbase car.

 

Never shortcut a chassis and cage. There are some race ready chassis on racejunk.com that you can alter to fit the body. As long as your platform is safe and strong you can run junkyard fours to supercharged eights and never worry.

Put your money into the chassis and save your money on the drivetrain and body.

 

Im not going to shortcut, but i dont justify the need for a 6.0 chassis to run above 10's..

 

I`m running one like you want to build right now . its a bantam coupe body is pretty much the only difference. I bought 2 sticks of 1 1/2 by 3 square tube 1/8 wall and a bunch of 1 1/2 by .139 wall tubing for under 500 bucks. borrowed a bender and away I went. I run a 3.50 gear with 29 in. tire a homebuilt powerglide and a 350 chevy old model a front end. my advice is stay with a small block so the massive torque of a big block wont be a problem. i`ve got less than 5000 in the car and I had to add 100 lbs. to keep it out of the 9s. a lot of fun. the motor is a 12 to1 flat tappet two swap meet afbs with less than 2000 invested. have fun and good luck car weighs 1730 lbs

 

Old sparks.. , sounds like the route im going.
Picked up an Volvo 240 rear axle today for free, should hold quite a lot of hp, and parts are cheap over here.

 

How about posting a few pictures ??? Would love to see it !

 

got an anra event in famoso middle of oct so when I pull it out of the trailer to do an oil change and try to figure out what to change to help my dismal reaction times ill take some pictures then get one of my grandkids to show me how to do it, I will. by the way last pass was 10.28 @ 126. remember you have to stay under 135 mph or you need a license and a parachute. one more thing rpm is not your friend. I shift at 5500 and go thru the lites at 6000. can you say hydraulic cam?

 

Neat little project. What happened to the side ventilation flaps in the firewall that are so specific for a Topolino ? Guess this was allready a hotrod or race body.

 

Yes, it has been customized before, i dont know the story though...
Worked on the rear axle last night, stripping of stock brackets, brakes etc. Now i need to find a good combination of wheels and tires. A little bit tricky, since Volvo has a 5x108. Not a lot of good looking wheels to choose from with that boltpattern :|

 

don't know what your skill level is at the moment but Volvo centers with 7 to 10 inch hoops welded on is the way id go. bolt centers on the axle with brakes removed and use the axle like a lathe welding the hoop 1 inch at a time using angle iron clamped parallel to the axle for a story pole. that's the way we used to do it b4 my grey hair showed up. solid mount the axle double shear 5 3/8 bolts per side 1/4 inch plate

 

I've planned to solid mount, but i dont think i understand exactly what you are decribing (my bad english)
Picked up some used slicks today for mockup. 31x10.5, seem to be enough for this little thing.

Anyone know how wide a typically 60s altered was on the rear wheels?

 

wheels were typically 7 in wide cause that's what was available. some guys used well casing tho now a days well casing is plastic. double shear is 1 plate sandwiched between 2 plates bolt is supported on both sides of load bearing member

 

Trying to figure out what would be the best width of the rear. I like the rear to be narrow, but still a little bit limited due to the axle. Dont want to spend money narrowing it

 

Found a nice set of 15x8" Minilite wheels With these, and the Volvo axle, the max width of the rear wheels should be around 60" - not that bad. I will use the bigger tires though..
Btw, these wheels was used on a Ford Escort with 1030hp (turbo Cosworth engine), with the same Volvo axle as im using. So i guess it should hold up quite good.

 

They look good.

 

Testing..

 

Click on FULL IMAGE when posting makes it easier for us to see.

 

Neat project, Here is a couple pics of our homebuilt altered, we bought a project started by another HAMBer, and finished it oursleves, Chassis is NHRA Certified to 7.50, We run mid 9 second times at 135MPH . It was a 3 year father and son project

 

Good looking car pnevells!
Got any pictures of your front suspension setup? Thats the next thing i need to decide on.

 

Next week im putting the frame rails on the jig. Meanwhile im trying to figure out what direction to take with this (Anglia axle) .

 

What are you unsure of with the Anglia axle?