Technical Loctite General Info

I ran out of sleeve retainer (green) when needing to seat a bearing in a loose aluminum bore of an old semi-worthless chainsaw. Almost used red but decided I'd better wait and get a new tube of sleeve retainer. But it got me wondering about the mysteries of Loc***e. Searched the other threads... Here's what I'm wondering:

What is really going on (the difference) between permanent red, semi blue and the sleeve retainer? Just temp? Must say the sleeve retainer has been a godsend over the years, never had it fail.

Has anyone actually tested the penetrating grade on an ***embled part to see if it really penetrates?

Are there situations (soft metals?) where it's not a good idea to use it?

I tried the thread repair (for stripped threads) once on a non-stressed part, a 10-24 screw on a cover and it seemed to work pretty well, took screwdriver torque. Any other experiences?

Primers, surface prep, any other tips?

 

There is a Loc-***e primer you can use.

 

Loc***e website has lots of information. You could call them with specific questions. Before I retired as electronic technician we used fingernail polish on screw threads for glyptal. There are so many Loc***es for different things I would read or call.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/about/our-brands/loc***e.html

 

One think I know with lock tight is a little dab will do ya!

Lots of guys pour it on and it just becomes a gummy mess and does not perform well.

And has been stated there seems to be a lock tight for any and all applications best to see the website or ask the supplier what they recommend

 

Working behind the counter at Checker Auto for a few years saw lots of seminars and off-site training. Permatex School lasted two days!! I never went to Loc***e training ... but bet they have it available if you ask.

 

Sounds like good info.

 

We use it quite a bit at work, various grades. The lighter grades will self-wick into the threads, we use a blue, purple and green for that. We gave them our internal part numbers. The red is the strongest and we use it on larger hardware that requires more torque. We use their primer too. The out of date ones I bring home are the red and blue.

 

I went to Loc***e school once. Convinced me to use primer and the correct type for the intended use.
My go to's are Red, Green and Purple.
One word of caution; When installing bearings with Green, do not get any into the bearing itself. Don't ask me how I know this

 

Kind of like gluing your fingers to your balls after using Super Glue.
Not that I have any experience with that.

 

That triggered a forgotten memory. My dad glued all four fingers together with our family's first tube of Super Glue.

 

We use a ton of green at work for press-fits, and a ton of blue and red, all with primer.

Every single one of our vehicles is essentially a prototype, on public roads, and we cannot afford to have even the most minor incident.

I have ins***uted the policy of masking off areas, especially when using green. As has been mentioned, you don't want it where it should not be. Don't ask me how I know, either.

 

When we first got super glue at work, I'm thinking mid 70s, this middle aged guy got it all over his index finger, then reamed his nose.
He was in misery, one of those funny but terrible things. He drove home like that.
The next day he said he saw his doctor who got it out, I'm not sure how.
Shame it wasn't around when the Three Stooges were.

 

We use the blue at work a lot and the red is some bad stuff If it is used on aluminum the threads will be pulled out if you have to remove the bolts. We have a loc***e chart the tell what each product is used for. And the green is a bearing mount and I would not use it on threads. You local CAT dealer can help and they can you any loc***e product you want or need.

 

Buddy, you need a new hobby

 

Yeh, but the missus has tired of that!

 

Holy ****!!! I laughed so hard milk shot out my nose!!!! And I haven’t drank milk in days!!!!! Holy hell thats funny


Worst I ever did was glue my 3 fingers on my right hand together !!

 

I used to use hot pink Loc***e (wife's nail polish) on my Limey bikes. It worked OK.

 

I bet Kikkoman Soy Sauce would work, can't hardly get the cap off the bottle if it sets for a while.

 

I intermittently wondered about the technical make up of the different types of loc***e myself.

 

I do not even keep red Loc***e in my garage. If there is a need for red, and that is very seldom, I mooch some from my neighbor.

Once you use the red stuff when you meant to use blue you will understand my phobia.

 

Went to O'Reillys this morning to get some sleeve retainer, they don't even stock it! But they have 15 different types of muffler patch...

One thing I've learned the hard way, that everyone else probably knows, is that if you store the tubes upright the tip won't clog.

 

FYI Loc***e makes a lot of their products in stick form (think chapstick). It stays where you put it and won’t leak all over your toolbox...

 

Re: the Red Loc***e bond can be broken by application of heat, correct? How well does that work in practice. I've never tried to remove a fastener that it was applied.

 

A friend of mine was a Harley dealer mechanic and went to factory school about the time super glue came out. They gave out samples the first day he was there. By the time the training was done quite a few things were glued down including the chairs glued to the floor. He they should have known not to give a bunch of 70s bikers something like that.

 

International Truck uses red loc***e on a plug in the rear of an oil manifold with a 1/2” square drive in the end for removal. I cannot budge this plug with a 2 foot ratchet, and I’m not small or weak! The tip is to heat the top of this manifold in one spot and then remove the plug. So, yes, heat works


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Been to loc***e school, got a chart around here somwhere. They make about everything, but I stick to blue red green.