Would like chev straight 6 info pls! OT, parts-getter truck

Lemme first say, I would be glad to take this offline, PM me for my email, and we can do the off-topic discussion there... but you guys are the best of the best, And I bet a lot of you have /have had this same exact truck

I got a "new" parts getter- 1980 full size chevy C-10 longbed with a 6 cyl and 3 on the tree. (I've really been into straight 6's lately) Why? It was CHEEP. Its really hard to score a cheap, non-rusty, non-tweaker-butchered truck around here...

Anyway, emissions sticker says 4.1L... thats a what, 252 ci? I'd like to know how many iterations this engine is away from the old 235. Aside from the funny CA Smog valve cover, it looks kinda similar...

Its got a weird 2bbl carb with SQUARE barrels... its not a Weber, is it????

Clutch is out of adjustment, as is the shift linkage, as it wont QUITE go into third gear. No grinds, just feels like the linkage aint pushing it far enough.

I needa get a service manual, but for now are there any web links that talks about this?

This is definately a Saginaw trans, right? Or where there any other 3 speeds?

What would be the wisdom of ditching the column-shift for a floor shifter? I'll keep the column shift if it'll be serviceable, its the greatest anti-theft device ever!

Anyway, biggest question: whats the adviseable limit on what I can tow with this thing once its running good? Those of you that have had the same truck, what have you towed with it?

Thanks, and like I said I'd be more than glad to take this discussion elsewhere if requested.

Thanks,
Jason

 

Uhh... theres a lot of off-topic threads today on the board it seems... Maybe I dont get into trouble bumping this one that has to do with an actual moto-vehicle?

 

Haynes makes a manual that covers '67-'87 Chevy pickups.
I've got one but I "need" mine.
Try Pepboys, they're not much more than postage or gas to "borrow" one.
The book only has Rochester listed for all the carbs but if it's similar to the one on Vegas, you'r right, it's a Weber design.
If it's primary secondary chambers, look at it like half a four barrel.
Book says they can backfire from running lean just by removing the air cleaner, so don't look down it and goose the throttle.
Clutch should adjust from the linkage and check the trans linkage for worn bushings or bent arms. That might be difficult since they are usually "bent" stock but pull off the one that you think isnt going into gear and se if you can hand move the lever into gear.
It's also possiby a worn detent ball or spring in the shifter chingus.

 

Hey Burndup,
I have almost the exact same truck. Mine is a '79 with the 250, only difference is mine has a turbo 350 trans. Not very fast by anymeans, but super reliable. I bought it 3 years ago from the back trade-in row at a car dealership my friend was working at. Like yours, it was cheap! The front end had been smacked up a little bit, but it ran great. I think it must've been a lawn service truck. It had a funky shell on it, and tons of gr*** clippings and some old mower blades in the bed. I wish I had looked over the suspension better before I bought it, but I was excited I found a 2WD fullsize with an inline, power brakes and power steering. Anyway, the whole suspension was rusty--very rusty. The A-arms had holes in them! I ended up replacing the whole suspension, a-arms, pitman arm, etc., as well as all the bushings, ball joints, tie-rods, everything. Put dropped spindles and springs in the front, did a flip kit in the rear. It was pretty low--in fact, too low. I couldn't drive it anywhere without dragging big time. I ended up having the truck bagged. Changed out the rear leaf spring set up to a 4 link. Had to C notch the frame in the rear to get low, which also meant having to cut the bed. Up front, with the bags and dropped spindles, the a-arms rest on the pavement when it is aired out. There is no way to go lower in the front without major work. I think it looks ok. Since then, I've replaced the smashed front fenders, radiator support and p***enger door. Shaved the door handles, side marker lights and skinned the tailgate with a louvered cover. I've also frenched and antenna and some '46 Chevy taillights. Still have a long way to go, but it's getting there. I would've loved to have started on an older truck, but I don't have the work space or technical skills to get a kool older truck modernized enough to drive every day in crazy traffic. A 70's Chevy truck just made sense. Also, you can't beat the prices on these trucks. They are still cheap, cheap, cheap, and the junkyards still have lots of great parts for 'em. Again, on the cheap.

The only thing I've towed is a small trailer that was just big enough for a riding lawn mower or a roto tiller. You couldn't even tell it was back there. I would think a 6 could tow a pretty good load, as long as you didn't have a whole lot of hill climbing to do. What sixes lack in power, they make up in torque.

As far as the 250 goes, it is the same basic motor that Chevy introduced in '62 to replace the faithful 235. The motor in trucks was basically the same until about '76 when they put the integral head on the motor. The intake and exhaust manifold are actually cast into the head, so trick carbs and exhaust goodies can't be used unless you convert the head to an earlier one. Also, the HEI came into use in about '77. I've had good luck with mine, but I've heard those integral heads are leak and crack prone. I have a hopped up 250 to put in mine, but the motor in it now runs good, so I'm in no hurry to put it in. I can't remember what make and model carb mine has, but it is the square 2 barrel as well. I've heard re-builds can be difficult. Sorry I'm not more help, I'm more of a body and paint guy than a mechanic. But, you won't go wrong with one of these trucks. In the three years I've owned mine, the only thing I've ever had to do (mechanically not counting suspension mods, body work, etc.) is replace the ******. Right now it is my everyday driver. I even drove it all winter here in Denver with airbags! It did ok, but I will have a cheapie bucket this winter. Good luck on your new project! E

 

www.chevytalk.com has some stuff. i wonder if those had the m/c solenoid in it. that was the square body style and i do believe that the clutch/shift linkage was pretty close to the old set-up (at least adjsutment wise). i think that is the second generation of the 250 from the mid/late 70's. i don't like them because of smog, i know you got it cheap but as soon as something goes wrong with the smog equipment it's $$$.....also it has a cat. if it's helps i have a '78 light duty truck factory service manual & overhaul manual if you want both $35 delivered.

 

Well, I have my work cut out for me... My neighbor and i got it running again after removing a sludged up fuel filter, new (reman!)battery. I had AAA'd it home from Pasadena.

Anyway, SNAP_SNAP_SNAP-griiiiiiiiiiiind... Shut it off! and suddenly the clutch pedal had even more freeplay. I think the pressure plate took a poop. So I'll have a good oppurtunity to have a look at that trans in the sunlight.

Thanks everybody! I'm a big fan of the old clymer manuals, I'll have a look on ebay, I needa get one for a motorcycle too.

And yeah Doc, this carb looks waaaay to euro! I lifted up the air cleaner today and saw the RP emblem... said NO WAY!

OG, your truck is bad***! I'm gonna keep mine stock, its just for getting steel at the steel place, and towing a pair of little jetski's on a HF trailer... all stuff my tired 2.0L Mitsu truck barely does already. That truck is just too small, and I figure this truck would get better mileage with this drivetrain than a V8/auto.

I'll be asking for help again when it comes time for smog check.

Thanks again,
Jason