Hot Rods How bad (or good?) of an idea is this?

Thank you, I didn't know that (never had a Model A Ford).
Now that raises a question.
If (the body), frame & engine have become separeted at one time in a cars life, which of those has most legitimate claim to be ***ociated with the ***le ?
And of course, what about all the aftermarket/home-made/reproduction frames ?
What, if any, claim or reason would they offer to be even considered anything but "kit cars", especially if they don't bear at least 1 or preferrably 2 out of 3 of the original major components, like the original frame, engine and/or the body ?
Are most Ford enthusiasts just willing to overlook such details and that's why the often heard joke(?)/phrase/reference goes something like "Of the +/-13000(?) '32 Ford Roadsters originally produced, at least several hundred thousand are known to exists today and more are constantly being added to that (rather conservative) estimate"

 

Model A Fords were ***led with the serial number, and usually the model number, on the paperwork. Sometimes the model number was simplified to just "twodoor", "truck", or "convertable" if the particular state was so inclined. Over here there are no national rules, and each county might have their own ideas as well. So that bare frame he buys (with paperwork) might have a model designation like "twodoor" on it and he would technically be just fine to put a roadster body on it. Nobody would be the wiser.

But as said above, many times the guy who keeps the body also keeps the ***le, and sells a frame with no paper trail. In reality the frame (with engine) is the legal component to match that ***le. All hell breaks loose when the new frame owner tries to obtain a ***le for the number on his frame (legally stamped there by Henry), and that number already matches some other Model A body stuck on a repro frame (with no numbers stamped on it by Henry).

 

Thanks for your explanation.

I'm quite familiar of this concept in relation to other vintage cars, let's take Ferrari from the other end of the extreme spectrum for example, with many know cases in which '50s or '60's race, prototype or even super rare dual purpose road car got crashed, burned to the ground or otherwise "destroyed" back in the day, but some one saved the remains and later parted it out.
Fast forward, 20, 30, 40+ years later, low and behold, perhaps as many as 3 different cars now exists and registered on those remains, one built around some body remains (and/or perhaps with the original riveted "VIN-plate"), another built around some ch***is remains (perhaps with OEM stamped VIN still intact) and one more built around the engine (with ch***is or cross-referencable engine-to-ch***is number factory stamped it).
Perhaps not that big of a deal to some observers or even owners of these until one of them publicly tries to sell his/her example for estimated (current) market value of $10M, $20M, $30M or ???

Not to mention, many highly authentic appearing "replicas" built to simulate some of the most desirable and/or valuable cars on the planet, like in reference to 1962-63 Ferrari 250GTO (from which "that" American car manufacturer "copied" their famous model designation ), there's saying that goes something like "Of the 33 250GTOs originally made, more than twice as many known to exists today, but only less than half of those are worth $45M-$65M each, while majority remains pretty close to worthless in comparison."

 

My advice FWIW. Buy a 2-door or 4-door. Find the best deal concentrating on the frame and mechanicals. Keep all projects to length of a weekend time frame, so you can keep it driving it as you want. Its still cooler and more fun than driving a modern car.
Take the fenders off.
Change to 16" wheels and tyres.
Lower front and rear suspensions.
Upgrade ignition.
Add bolt on speed stuff as needed, or $$$ becomes available.
At this point you have a nice running '40s era Gow Job. You have spread the time and cost out over a period of time whilst keeping it on the road and keeping the bank balance stable. All you need is a roadster or phaeton body. Once you have found one, the patches can be fixed as time/money allows. Swap the body in a weekend. Sell the sedan body to someone like you who is looking to get into a hot rod cheaply. Use some of that money to go back in the bank to offset the cost of the open body. The rest gets spent on the open car.
This way means a smaller initial outlay. A running driving car quickly, upgraded as $$ becomes available. Enjoy it whilst looking for an open body. Once found, its a simple body swap.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

This was actually a pretty good idea I hadn't considered but I like it.

Thank you for your input.

 

I would go for a restored car. That way the running gear should be good, and a restored sedan body will bring more money when it comes time to sell. Also any parts you don't need/want, wheels and tyres, fenders will also bring more money. It might be a slightly higher initial purchase price but it will pay more back into your "hot rod fund" as you upgrade.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

You are absolutely correct, and I won't need to hunt for parts like lights, instruments etc.
And a decent, complete tudor does fit my budget for the initial purchase.

 

Check this one. I think it could well be in Holland. 4 doors need love too.
Chris
http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/sho...el-4d-rhd-no-rust-model-a-up-and-driving-14-k

 

Consider buying a tudor sedan and converting it into a phaeton. A quick google search of hot rod model A phaeton produced a lot of examples of cars whose owners had started with sedans and made them roofless. I understand the desire for wind in your hair and bugs in your teeth.

 

So excited at the moment that I'll just need to bump this old thread back to the top.

This weekend I'm gonna meet up with a guy who has something like 7 or 8 Model A's in different
stages of completion and body styles for sale.

Any last words of wisdom for a newbie on cars this old or just go for the most complete one I can afford?

 

I would suggest picking the vehicle in the best mechanical condition, as long as it is complete enough to be "street legal" (or very close to), so that with minor work you can start driving (& become used to) a nearly 90yr old vehicle. Once you start driving around in one, you'll be surprised how many people will inform you of where other vehicles/parts/other owners are located! The car becomes a "rolling search engine", & sooner or later that open body that you really desire will (almost magically!!) show up. In the meantime: drive & enjoy what you've got!! GOOD FORTUNE & HAPPY HUNTING!!

 

You got it , don't get to exited and check them real good. Choose the one that talks to you.lol

 

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/sonoma-1929-ford-model-acoupe/6807543018.html Sell or trade the leftovers for a roadster

 

Most of the time the cheapest car is not.

 

Well, I went to see the cars and the one that caught my attention was a 1928 Phaeton.
The body was in pieces at the moment but he will put it back together for me before I decide if I want to
buy it or not.

And he did give me a couple of options for engine and ******:

1: Stock A engine and ******.
2: Stock B engine and ******.

Choice no. 1 would be the easy way to go and will get me driving the car sooner.
But I will probably get tired of double clutching pretty soon which means I'll need to
convert to something like a V8 transmission later on with some sort of adapter kit, and of course find a useable trans.

Choice no. 2 means I'll have to figure out something to make the pedals work but it would
give me a tiny bit more powerful engine from the start, fuel pump if I wanna use a downdraft carb,
a bit better crank (I think?) and so on.

What would be the best way to go here? ‍

 

i can see where you are coming from with this build. I'm in the states, i never have the cash on hand to buy a complete, running, driving model A, only to tear it down, & hope someone will come buy & buy up the leftovers. What i do have, is, a little bit of extra income, to buy a body, or ch***is part, or engine, front axle, rear end, etc. I can only imagine, buying a nicely restored model a in Sweden would be a big chunk of dough

 

You're correct to ***ume that. So I'm looking for a car that is as complete as possible but not necessarily running.

 

If both engines are in good condition, I would suggest the "B" engine/transmission, as it is a stronger engine , & has a fuel pump. (important if you decide to use a down draft carb later, or relocate the gas tank. Yes, you would need get a pedal unit : we usually use 1939 Ford ***embly that mounts to the frame under the seat(details available other places on this site, or over on the Ford Barn), relatively simple to do. Or, you could ask him to sell you the "B" engine & the "A" bellhousing/transmission ***embly. With minor "work" they will bolt together, mount directly into the "A" body, & keep the "A" pedal ***embly. This would probably be the easiest & fastest way to start driving(after you determine the condition of the rest of the running gear, especially BRAKES!!)

 

Notes for to the last post: If you do decide to change to the '39-up pedals, you won't need to change if(when ?) you decide to change to V8 engine/transmission(you'll need both engine/trans for V8, as none of the "A" or "B" transmissions will fit the V8, & aren't strong enough either)

 

I would say try to get the most complete car you can. If that Phaeton is all apart and he said he will bolt it together before you buy, let him do it, this is where the missing parts will show up. I would also say to get the body style you like, it is easier to stay motivated on a project that you like. It sounds like the Phaeton may be the car for you and if it is, go with the "B" motor.

 

Mikko - Do you ever go on "The Ford Barn" discussion board? There is a guy over there that goes by "FlatheadMurre" that lives in Sweden. I don't know exactly where, but he is really into this stuff. I believe his father was an American who moved to Sweden, so he is familiar with both countries. He comes to Minnesota every summer and scrounges up a lot of stuff and sends it back to Sweden in a regular shipping container. He may have something that will work for you, or perhaps he can do something for you about finding something and maybe help with shipping. He's a good guy to know, in any event.

 

Thanks for your input, I was kinda leaning towards the B engine/transmission myself.
I'll do some research on the '39 pedal ***embly.

He will have the body back together for me in the next few weeks. Hopefully it is
what I'm looking for.

 

Thanks for the tip, I'll look it up.