In the next month or so, I’m going to chop my 54 Belair. The first thing I want to do is get all my door, fender, and hood gaps straightened out. My question is where would you recommend I start ? With the doors ? Hood/fenders? I’m ***uming the doors because the quarters aren’t adjustable, so I’ll have a starting point. Then move to the front. I’ve adjusted the doors before but this time I’m installing bear claw latches. So if anyone has adjusted everything together I’d appreciate any input you can offer. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
same technique on most cars...start with the doors, then move to the fenders, and you have to get the hood to fit right while you're moving the fenders around. And it can take a LOT of work (including metal work, cutting, filling, etc) to get it even close to perfect. They were not made very well back then, and suffered abuse over the years.
What to need to make sure you got right is on 53-54's are where the door ,fender and hood meet . Even right from the factory the gaps could be off and with a car 60 something years old who knows what repairs ,replacement parts where done. Like they say " If you start out screwed up you stay screwed up. BTW how much chop?.
Yeah I hear ya. That already seems like it’s going to be a problem area. I bought all new door hinge bolts, hood rubber bumpers, and cowel seal so that way it’s all new while setting the gaps. Not 100% sure on how much yet but it’s not going to be radical. I’m guessing somewhere between 3-4” Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I figured I’d have to do some m***aging of the metal somewhere. Just wanted to get it at least 80-90% gapped before I chop it because after that it’s pretty much too late. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
OK to remove/add metal to make it right - using non stock front & rear Gl*** (?) will cause other problems too
I have never had an issue with factory door latches on these. Bear claw latches are nice, but might be a wasted effort.
I’m not really having issues either but I’m changing the handles on the car to a different set up. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
if you have gap alignment glitches that can not be fixed by just trying to do regular adjustments you can slightly modify edges of gap by cutting edge or running a bead along edge - retaining the stock front gl***, by lowering it into body supported by open channel saves a lot of work trying to modify gl*** to fit whatever opening you might end up with otherwise - if you want real gl*** -
Gotcha. I got a guy that’ll do the gl***. As long as the gaps are at least 90% before the chop then I’ll be good Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also, make sure all of your floor pan work is done (if any is needed) and replace any questionable body mounts as well. Some doors will never fit if the body isn't shimmed properly against the frame. I worked at a body shop years ago and I was shocked how much you can move a body around just by adding or subtracting shims at the body mount points against the frame.
I’ll keep that in mind. I did replace the floor pans and the rear brace already. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When I did my 53 there is no way to adjust the hood last..... I did mine first got the cowl gap good then adjusted the fenders and doors together kinda. It took a long time! And a pain in the *** the hood springs are in a terrible location. On the hard tops you also can adjust the quarters in and out at the tops.. I'll see if I can locate the gm tech article Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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