Jim the stock specs on these early Vettes is in the + or - 1/2* positive caster and about the same with negative camber 1/2*. The setting for both is done with a rinky dink cam setup on the outside of the upper control arm. You can adjust it if you are lucky 1/2* either way. As you move the cam you change both caster and camber at the same time. From the factory they come with one 2* shim and at stock height there are few problems with either camber or caster unless one of the components get bent. Once you raise the car's stance both caster and camber settings start to affect the way the car drives. If you are going to drive the car above 70mph at a raised stance you have to have a way to dial in more caster for sure and the only way is with either tapered shims or a tapered or wedge shaped spacer. I have played with other methods like tilting the lower a-arm and it has some effect but it is so easy with the shims. Knowing what Chad wanted to do with his 62 Vette with the Latham, I suggested he start with 2 of the 2* shims on both sides. This should get you in the 5 1/2* ballpark as long as the components are not bent. With that you can adjust the little cam back and forth on the outside of the upper control arm and get the desired setting. If you need more you can always machine the leading edge of the shim and increase the effect. If there is not enough caster you can go to a third shim. I have an old drag car from the 60s that has a number of shims (stock height though as it ran in MP) but it has 9* degrees according to the original builder. As you know at that point the steering return becomes an issue. A number of the guys that I know that run these old suspensions with the 2* shims use three shims and shoot for 7*. My cars seem to work OK at 5 1/2*-I hope-so far so good. If the OP is going to drag race I would not be adverse to trying 3 shims. With the flange anyways it is easy to remove shims or install new ones if necessary anyways.
Simple math but not really math at all. How many degree's of rise (0)is there when measured at front and rear axle CL (B C and A being new C)? One tape measure and a protractor would yield a sum would it not? A piece of chalk to draw on the garage floor is optional.
Does anyone know what headers to use on these cars looking for fenderwell style ! I know they dont make a direct bolt on but what has people used and how they had to mod them ! Thanks
I've heard these will fit but I don't know for certain https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-Block-Chevy-1935-48-Fat-Fenderwell-Headers-Raw-Finish,3821.html
a car I built about 10 years ago. carefully mark some 4" I beam cut to length, use a long drill bit and a bunch of grade 8 hardware. Ran 100 in the 1/4 and straight as a arrow down the highway. Would do it again with out a second thought.
Kurt did you have to do any other mods ? Like making drag link any longer ect ? And what fenderwell headders did you use ? Thanks
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