G'day Guys I have got a one piece gl*** body roadster and as its a hiboy I need to put a step attached to the ch***is rails so i can get in and out. Getting in is not as bad as getting out cos the body is wider at the top than the bottom so you need a fairly big step. Does anyone have any pics or ideas on how to build a sturdy step that wont sag or weigh a ton - oh and look cool so no aluminium checker plate (diamond plate in US?) Thanks Steve
So, just to be sure its a HiBoy?? A ch***is 32 rails? If A, why not make a sprintcar type side fender rail, looks cool and can be used as a step. I was thinking of making one for my 28 RPU. Doc.
Must be a high highboy! I would ***ume anything made with a one piece body would be super low, track car style and therefore not need doors. Otherwise, put a door in it, or a slide out step.
Blackie Gejeian's Shish Kabob Special had a small pair of them, so did Barney Navarro's 27 lakes roadster. This is the only pic of barneys roadster I can find not a real good one though. (And not a thing on Blackies AMBR winning 26!) http://www.nhra.com/museum/photos/photo08.html Anyone else got a good pic?? Doc.
There is no chance you have the long split rear bones running outside the rails do you? Just a thought a trick step could be mounted to those. If you don't run this set up forget I mentioned it.
There's always the hover board method: Stores nicely behind the seat and available at any height you wish! Sorry! Couldn't resist! I like the nerf bar idea. What are you going for in a final look? Maybe there's something that could be incorporated into what you're doing. The radius rod thing is an even BETTER idea if you're going that route!
Is that car at finished ride height? If it is I can see your step problem. What style of build is it? That kind of information might help people come up with applicable/appropriate suggestions. (eg 40's lakes car, track car like the Wieand Special, early drag car etc.)
I built the same car about 11 years ago. I cut the doors and hinged them. I ran full rear fenders (model A reshaped). I wanted to put on a nerf bar arrangement to help support the front of the rear fenders, as I was not running any running boards. The doors are so damn narrow that even when they are hinged, they are difficult to get in and out of, and I ended up using my nerf bar set-up as a step. I welded a pair of 1/2" thick plates to the outside of the framerail, and tapped them for 1/2" dia. bolts. I then made a matching set of plates that would bolt to them (actually it was 2" x 1/2" flat bar, length was equal to the height of the framerail). I welded a stub of 1 1/2" square tubing to these outer plates, --the length was such that the body could be set down over the frame and clear the end of these "stubs"(I channeled the body the width of the framerail). With the body in place, I measured carefully and cut 2 1/2" diameter holes thru the gl*** body, in line with these "stubs" . I went to a plumbing shop and bought some 1 3/4" inside diameter x 3/16" wall (approximate) schedule 40 steel pipe "welding elbows" and a few straight peices to make up my nerf bars. The nerf bars p*** thru the gl*** body and slides over the "stubs" and has a bolt thru the stubs and the pipe to keep them together. I put a peice of "sure grip" (an adhesive backed cloth similar to emery cloth) on top of the nerf bars so I wouldn't slip when I stepped up on them. It worked great---the fenders were secure, and since my old *** is too fat to fit thru the door on a 26/27 roadster, I would step up onto the nerf bar, then step in thru the door---(fat ***, skinny legs) and then sit down in the car.
Here's some done with brake pedal pads. They look a bit plain, but you could fabricate a more stylish mount without too much extra effort.
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