I’ve broken the starter bolt off in the block and I have not been able to get an extractor to work. If I drill and tap a 1/2” hole for a sleeve will I have an issue with the grooves on the starter bolt not grabbing? I have a reducing sleeve that will allow me to use the 3/8 bolt but I’ll loose some thread length and the groves below the thread prob won’t touch. Thanks in advance. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Oh...imagine that...a offshore "new" bolt...made from melted down bicycles You have drilled it a bit off center, so if you go with the insert, you are screwed. Well, you need to work from up top, as the broken piece on the bottom side must be up inside the recessed hole? If you have a decent mig, set it high and start filling that drilled hole, but it needs to be burned in good. Then keep building that weld blob, as it cools enough to do so, but still very hot. Once you get enough blob height away from the curved casting, weld a thick washer centered over the blob...then weld a large nut to that washer. All of those heating cycles will shrink at least some of the broken piece, and careful prodding back and forth with a socket should get some movement...and come out. .
I'd be more worried about your new hole being off center.... If you can drill it on center, with a drill bit that is the diameter of the root of the threads, then you should be able to unwind the remaining bolt thread from the block, and not damage the block at all.
Can you mig a nut onto the broken piece in the block? A lot of times the welding will generate enough heat that you can then use the nut to back the broken part out.
I'd suggest getting that piece of bolt out of the hole, without drilling it out. Heat through torch or welder, will help get it. Chase the threads in the block, get a good starter bolt and you should be okay. The knurling on the bolt fits to the starter.
I'm not sure what the pic of the block with the busted bolt is showing me. Is it showing a hole in the broken bolt, a bit off center? Is it drilled all the way through? If so, were you applying an easy out from the top or the bottom? Likely to struggle due to debris etc if from the top. Also looks like you could drill the hole a bit bigger without damaging the block => bigger easy out and better chance of success. Plus heat as others have said. Bolt doesn't look like a quality piece - looks like the ones I removed when my eastern mini starter took an impromptu dump. Hope your starter isn't like mine was! Chris
Use a Dremel and an 1/8 inch carbide endmill and carefully cut the bolt and collapse it in the hole. You will be able to save the thread. I have done it many times. WEAR eye protection!!
You're obviously drilling from the "top", as seen by the witness marks on the block.. Does the hole go all the way through? If it does, or even if it does't, an Oxy-Acet cutting torch will blow the remains of the bolt out; then just clean up the threads with a tap (plenty of threads, here and elsewhere, on how to do that). From the top, the easy out should be turned clockwise, and not counter clockwise, right? I can't really see the flutes on your easy-out. Some easy outs only "grip" in one direction (counter clockwise), and from the top, it may not work, depending on your easy-outs. I would't try to take it out from the top. From the "bottom", you would have to turn it counter clockwise, right? When I bought one of those "off shore" mini starters, the bolts were metric, and would't go into the block, even when somewhat forced, so I pulled some stock GM starter motor bolts out of the used bolt box. Be careful you don't break off the bolt boss of the block; it happens a lot; then you really have a problem. If that were to happen, the Tri-Five vendors have a blanchard ground steel plate, that uses the old 3 bolt starter motor that bolts to the bellhousing, but it requires a 168 tooth flywheel/flexplate. It's bolted between the engine and transmission. Hope that does't happen. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
If the bolt is broken off in the hole I would use a easy out it’s a reverse drill bit. I used one to retrieve exhaust manifold bolts once I also heat it up a bit with a induction coil. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My first mistake was breaking an extractor bit from the bottom in the center. Then I drilled from the top all the way through. Due to the location the hole from the top is not straight. I’ve spent $100 on multiple extractor bits, but I think I’ve mangled the threads and the bolt due to the hole not being straight. I don’t have a welding machine and it’s a little tight for a weld. At this point the dremmel seems like the best option. I’ll read up on blowing it out w torch. If I can’t get it out at least I have an excuse for the old lady to swap out this 350, lol. Thanks guys, I’ll keep you posted. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
use starter mount as a guide, re drill hole larger and use a heli-coil to repair. ALLWAYS use genuine GM bolts.
I used the bolts that came w the power master starter I bought. I heard a slight grinding noise, so I decided to torque the bolts. Set the wrench at 35, this is my first car and I don’t know what 35lbs feels like. I didn’t feel a click and snapped it off. Worst part is it’s finally in the 70’s in Louisiana and this thing isn’t driving... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So did you knock the broken EZout piece out of the hole? If you got it out, then the torch cutting will work. If the hole is still blind by that broken piece, the torch won't work. Don't try to use the starter as a drill guide, as the hole in the starter is just too big to be a guide. .
You can build up the bolt with some weld, Then weld a washer to the build up then weld a nut to the washer and turn it out that way. If you cant weld find some one that can. I have had good luck doing this and it will save a bolt hold getting off center and messed up Good luck with this. If you have any questions P M me and will try to help
Once you get the thing out and repaired and go to install the new starter, don't forget that little bracket that goes from the rear of the starter up to the block. Lots of people toss it away as an unnecessary pain in the rear. The little bracket is there to provide additional support and help prevent cracks in the block, etc
you can use starter mount for a drill guide because you need to drill an oversize hole for the heli-coil. I have done this many times on v6 vortecs fitted to hyster forklifts
You must break up the broken extractor , but wear safety gl***es . If the damn car never moves again it dies equal an eye loss . Anyway after you get it out , as explained , burn it out with the blue wrench or drill as large as you can and heat is your friend here . I have had many of the same thing happen workin on gas production equipment , in the past . Take your time all will be well , hast makes waste , very easy to break cast iron , it will be a bad day if you bust the casting of the block .
It looks like the bolt goes all the way through drill a small hole 1/4 inch or so and heat the bolt red hot going through the hole. When you heat something if expands but it can't expand out because of the block red hot and no strength when it cools it shrinks in all directions. A reverse drill or easy should work.
The heating and cooling a bolt is called “upsetting”, it’s not so much that the bolt can’t expand because of the block, heat will transfer from the bolt to the block, it’s the fact that they are different materials and expand and contract at different rates which causes any rust etc. in the threads to hopefully break free, sometimes it’s helpful to try multiple heat cycles. If it’s cross threaded or had damaged threads then it’s a whole different story, good luck! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Jalopy Journal
