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Technical Order of body repair?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by madz28, Oct 19, 2018.

  1. madz28
    Joined: May 4, 2015
    Posts: 12

    madz28

    I've been searching and searching and I need some thoughts. I'm almost done blowing my 28 Tudor sedan apart and I began to wonder if I'm doing things out of order.

    Do I fix the rust before I blow it apart for sand blasting? Do I blow apart sand blast, prime, and then repair the rust holes? Blast, repair, prime? Do I have to ***emble the body again to do the patch work or can the panels be patched separately?

    I am no body guy so I apologize if my questions are basic. Time is a premium so I just want to make sure I am approaching this in a semi correct order to save myself time and headaches. Not many cars can literally be taken apart the way our old cars do, so I feel like it adds complexity to the project.

    Thanks again for any words of advice.
     
  2. Smokeybear
    Joined: Apr 20, 2011
    Posts: 325

    Smokeybear
    Member

    I'm not sure if you mean you're taking each panel completely apart or you're taking everything off the body (doors, windshield frame, tank, etc.) The way I have done it does not involve taking the panels themselves apart. I separate the body from the frame, dis***emble all non-metal parts (windows, trim, etc.) then take it down to bare metal. If I'm patching existing panels, I leave them on the car so that I get all body lines straight. If I'm replacing the entire panel, that can be done when re***embly is done. Once all panels are metal finished I epoxy primer everything and then do bodywork on top of that. If you live in a region that is very humid, you may want to epoxy primer before doing patchwork so the bare metal doesn't flash rust.

    Step 1 IMG_2508.jpg IMG_2511.jpg

    Step 2: IMG_2529.jpg IMG_2530.jpg

    Step 3:
    IMG_2533.jpg IMG_2534.jpg

    Step 4:
    IMG_1634.JPG IMG_1636.JPG

    Step 5 is the filler work, primer, and several rounds of block sanding before sealer and paint.

    Others may do it a different way but this has worked well for me.
     
    jazz1 likes this.
  3. jazz1
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,602

    jazz1
    Member

    Sandblast completely dis***embled vehicle will expose all the history, that's how I have done it. I find it easier to repair doors/fenders laid on sawhorses than of the vehicle. ***emble vehicle once before painting as well. Sometimes making marks to make sure you know exactly where hinges should be for alignment IMG_2678.JPG
     
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,683

    alchemy
    Member

    Take totally apart, sandblast, epoxy prime all, re***emble and mount on proper blocks to a square frame. Then you can make sure all is square and aligned. Then you can start replacing any rusted out areas. Don't put in patch panels when the part is not rigid on the body. If it is slightly wiggly on a sawhorse it will probably be welded in sprung crooked.
     
  5. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,583

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    yes, the best way is as alchemy stated. All the patching should be done on the frame, bolted tight. it is best to totally prebuild the car before ANY paint is applied. if you look close at the 2nd post by smokeybear , NONE of the panels line up and i doubt they will be better after tightening it down to the frame.
    been there redid that.
     
  6. Smokeybear
    Joined: Apr 20, 2011
    Posts: 325

    Smokeybear
    Member

    The panels do line up, its the angle of the camera that makes it look off.
     
  7. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Yes, as ^^mentioned above^^ make sure everything fits before any finish/paint work, and do not expect any patch panels to fit as well as you would like.
     
  8. madz28
    Joined: May 4, 2015
    Posts: 12

    madz28

    Thanks everyone. You guys confirmed my original plan of attack.
     

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