I need some help with my Chevy 235, when I got it it seemed seized. Just so happens it’s not I got it turning over, good spark, I rebuilt the carb I’m not getting any fuel in the engine when I pour fuel in the carb and turn it over I get nothing. I’m just trying to get it to fire for now. By the way it cranks over pretty slow I know 6v cranks slow but it seems to slow to fire. Any help would be appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you forced a stuck engine to turn over, you can expect rings stuck in the pistons, low compression, exhaust valves stuck open and its just a bad idea overall
Check spark from coil. Probably none. Might get lucky by cleaning the points then adjusting them. If still no spark maybe condenser. Assume you’ve pulled the cap and looked inside If it was stuck and you freed it up, I’d pull the plugs and check compression too as mention above..,
Make sure it is timed correctly. If you have spark at the proper time, it should do something. Why do you have to pour fuel in the carb? You can rig up a temporary fuel tank if you suspect your fuel line from tank to pump has issues. You can also gravity feed to the carb, but be careful if you do. A fire without a way to stop fuel flow is very dangerous, so think hard before you try that.
I have good spark at the plugs, timing should be close enough to fire even sputter. I’m only pouring fuel in to get it to fire once I know it fires I’ll run a proper fuel system. I changed the plugs wires cap rotor points and condenser, rebuilt the carb, took the starter out cleaned it up. When checking compression does it need to crank fast or would the slow cranking work to check? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
check and double check the plug wires/firing order. make sure it is firing number one at top of compression stroke.. should look something like this.... Chappy 235 by Chappy444 posted Oct 25, 2018 at 12:19 PM
If it will only crank at the speed it 8s cranking at, you might as well check it at that speed. If it has stuck valves or a seriously blown head gasket, it is possible that it wont fire at all. I had a Jeep here last summer that was so down on compression it would not fire at all.
Ok I’ll check compression and get back you to guys. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I checked the compression and it was reading between 60-65 psi, so I guess I’m looking for another motor. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
or pull it apart and inspect it. Maybe you get lucky and you only have to put rings in it. but if you can find another motor that's in good shape, that would be easier.
Elaborate on "when I got it it seemed seized. Just so happens it’s not". Was it stuck a bit and you got it freed up easily, or wasn't it stuck at all? How much fuel are you pouring down the carb? Too much and you may have washed down the cylinders, which would result in some lower compression readings. Did you check all the cylinders and they were all between 60-65? Put a couple squirts of oil in each cylinder and recheck the compression. If an engine is cranking slow your compression readings will be a bit lower due to leakdown.
I suggest you have all the plugs removed when checking compression and it will, or should, turn over faster.
That is the only way you can properly check the compression. All plugs out, throttle plate and choke wide open. If you didn't have all the plugs out I'd charge the battery and pull them out and check it again. If it is still low I'd squirt a few shots of Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and spin it over a few times, stick the plugs in and let it set for a bit. That should free up the rings a bit and also seal them against the cylinder walls to help with the compression to fire it up. Since you have spark we are going to not worry about the points, cap or wires right now. If you haven't you do need to make sure that when you bring #1 cylinder up on compression on top dead center and line the mark up that the rotor is pointing towards #1 on the distributor cap and the points are opening. If you haven't been you should carefully pour gas down the float bowl vent tube to fill the float bowl. That should let the engine run for up to 30 seconds or so after it starts.
CLEAN all your connections - ground and (+) leads to the starter, ground straps between the frame and engine. DO NOT replace a 6v battery cable with a smaller 12v cable - note the difference in wire gauge. There is just NO room for error for bad connections, too small wire gauge in a 6v system! Get back to us with what you find! Good Luck, Tim
These cars did not have a lot of ground in them from new Good, charged up battery Good connections from battery to starter Good grounds ( I usually run a ground from the engine to frame, from battery to frame, and battery to the body.) Compression test with all plugs out and throttle pate and choke open One dry, one wet Do a leak down test, could have some stuck valves or rockers. These 235’s are good, strong engines and it should run, even like shit it should still do something. Double check your timing base ( of the ball on the flywheel) and your distributor timing all line up Good spark at the plugs and good spark when cranking Run a fuel tank gravity feed style to the carb to get it running, you could be dumping to much fuel in the thing Pull the valve cover and side cover off to see the valve train and what it’s doing Good thing is, lots of stuff is available for the 235 and is relatively cheap as long as you don’t need machine work done. And has been said 6 volt wiring is thicker then 12 volt stuff so keep that in mind when changing wires anout
What I mean is that I could t turn it over by hand mind you I couldn’t get much of a grip on it. I haven’t t poured all that much in the carb just enough to get something to happen. And yes I checked all the cylinders all between 60-65 none were any higher than 65. I will try the squirts of oil and try again. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I may have to add a few more grounds. Could you elaborate on the leak down test? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I made sure to clean all connections when I took the starter out, I will have to add some more grounds by the sounds of it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I’m gonna check the timing, and add some oil to free up the rings hopefully. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well I got some fire coming out of the exhaust, so I checked the timing by the mark and it was 180 out. So I adjusted it, now I get nothing again. Seems like it’s turning over much better now tho. I’ll let it sit with a little oil in the cylinders over night and try again tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Adding oil in the cylinders will temporarily help worn rings seal, giving you a higher test reading. One way to test for worn rings. If the motor has been sitting and the rings are stuck because of that (in the ring grooves in the piston), they may loosen back up if you can get the engine to run. The heat cycles and vibration being your friend here.
First I moved all the wires so that #1 would fire at tdc then I got flames out the exhaust, then turned it 180 and that’s about where I’m at. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I just moved the wires over one spot now I’m getting fire out the exhaust again. I’m thinking that the engine just isn’t making enough compression to fire and it’s just blowing by. I very well could be wrong on this. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If this was a barn find, yard find that sat for years??...the compression will be low. It would have light rust on valves & seats, rings washed down with your gas down the carb. This might all clear up if you can get it to run. If it sat for years, run just the starter on 12v, so you don't ruin the rest of the 6v electrics. You need to get a barn find engine to spin faster to start....and even then, it will still be not starting like a car that never sat forever. ...after running it a while, then do a compression test, before condemning the motor. But you need to make sure that it is timed correctly now that you messed with it. Most guys tow them to start, but I don't. I use 12v to spin them faster. .
If your getting fire out the exhaust, I would bet it will start. You got spark and fuel. Your timing is off. You need to get number one on TDC. Be sure number 1 valves are closed and you can see the ball bearing on the flywheel at the pointer. Then rewire the plugs in a clockwise manner. 1 5 3 6 2 4. Then try it again. If your moving wires around you are never going to get it started unless you go back to the beginning. Doing this should get you close. If you have help, and when your turning the engine over, and if it doesn't fire, have another or yourself move the distributor ever so slightly left and right to see if it will fire. Another way to do this if you're alone, get it to TDC, leave the ignition on, pull number one wire and with a screwdriver in the end of the wire, put it close to the head, not touching it, turn the dizzy until you see a spark. just as it sparks is where you want the dizzy clamped. that should get you firing. Good luck.
Also use Marvel's oil in both the fuel, and the crankcase oil, per the directions on the jug. This will guard against stuck lifters, valves due to old sludge and stale varnished fuel and un-stick the rings. It really does work for this.
How can I wire up just the starter for 12v? If you have a pic that would help a lot. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've gone over and over the timing, guess it's still not close enough. This time I'll go all the way back to the beginning check and double check. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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