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Anyone ever rebuilt a Flathead water pump?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Harrison, May 24, 2006.

  1. Harrison
    Joined: Jan 25, 2002
    Posts: 7,133

    Harrison
    Member

    What's involved in rebuilding a Flathead water pump?

    I put a rebuilt one on the right side of the '38 and damn if the left side didn't immediately go to howling. I want a good rebuilt pump but if I can't find one, I found a NOS rebuild kit.

    Anyone know what's invloved in rebuilding one? I'd be willing to bet you'd need some type of press during the rebuild & I don't have one.

    Should I even consider this or is this a "leaker" waiting to happen. If so, I'd rather just hold out for a rebuilt pump. I want my car back on the road ASAP too though.

    Goodguys Nashville is a month from yesterday.

    TIA, JH
     
  2. Montechris
    Joined: Nov 15, 2004
    Posts: 529

    Montechris
    Member

    There is a guy well known on fordbarn that rebuilds excelent pumps from what I hear. He does somthing with the props that makes them cool better than stock. Not much help on rebuilding but somthing to consider.

    Chris
     
  3. fordy6
    Joined: May 24, 2006
    Posts: 108

    fordy6
    Member

    Hiya,
    I just rebuilt my water pumps on my '46 coupe not 6 months ago and the port side is howling and it won't be long for the other to start. I think the best deal now is go with a rebuilt pump with bearings. These are new to the market and there is nothing like them. problem solved! Here is the link:
    THANKS FOR YOUR INQUIRY. WE HAVE NEW PUMPS IN STOCK WITH BALL BEARINGS
    INSTEAD OF A BUSHING. THEY ARE 99.95 EACH WITH GASKETS. YOU CAN ORDER ON
    LINE AT: WWW.EARLYFORD.COM <http://www.earlyford.com/> OR CALL US AT 800
    417-3347

    Louie Grosso is a great knowledgable guy...... and they ship right away.
    Mike fordy6
     
  4. You need a press to remove the pulley. But, some models have a pin through the pulley. Remove it first.
    New pumps are available with bearings, from www.speedwaymotors.com
     
  5. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    I think '37-48 instructions are in the factory engine overhaul book, which is available online at the flathead parts site. Later ones covered in shop manual. Never did it myself.
     
  6. flatoz
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,237

    flatoz
    Member

    Yes,

    you generally need to make sure you have new impellers or at least re surface the ones you have as they will otherwise chew into the bearing and seal and you will be back where you started.

    just to note, not all can be rebuilt easily. I bought a 20 ton press just to do my own pumps. and you really do need a press ( always wanted a press, it was just an excuse I told the wife!)
     
  7. Everyone says Skips pumps cool the best. I paid 120.00 each for new ones shipped and I think Skips would have been less. Next time I'll use Skips! Mark
     
  8. Flatman
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,975

    Flatman
    Member

    Never mind a press, you need a torch to heat up the pulley center boss so you can get it off without shattering the pulley!! Found this out the hard way:eek: :D
    I got my 8RT pumps dissembled and found that a) Pulleys are real hard to find new, b) the rebuild kits come with carbon seals, and the bushing arrangement still ****s.
    I read all about Skip Haney's pumps and how good they were, but went with Speedway bearing pumps instead. They were cheaper, had ceramic seals, dual bearings and new pulleys and impellers (Skip replaces the impellers but not the pulleys:( ). Came with nice thick gaskets as well.

    My .02,
    Flatman
     
  9. 47bob
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 625

    47bob
    Member

  10. 4dFord/SC
    Joined: Sep 12, 2004
    Posts: 837

    4dFord/SC
    Member

  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,782

    alchemy
    Member

    If you want to rebuild some yourself, you can do it without a press. I did it with a vise and an air chisel.

    To remove the old shaft I used the air chisel with a small round point and pressed the shaft downward through the pulley and body. Support the backside of the housing on your heavy vise while doing this.

    Then used sockets to press the bushing out with the vise. Clean up the housing now. Then press in the new bushing with some oil and the vise. Make sure you have the bushing heading in straight.

    ***emble all the seal parts onto the impeller and shaft and check the fit into the new bushing. If nice, then press the pulley back onto the front of the pump with the vise and some oil. If too tight, then have the bushing reamed with a nice new reamer, then ***emble. I've heard if you used a hone or an old reamer you will smash closed the holes in the oillite bushing and it will not stay lubricated.

    I got my kits from Mac's for about $20 each I think. The gasket that came in the kit was too shrunk to use, but luckily I had a pair of good gaskets on the shelf.

    I've got a half dozen old rebuilts for future use, but I'm sure the seals in them are all dried out. I will put new seals in them before use. Available separately from Mac's too.
     

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