Guys, The Brookville ones are $280 shipped which seems like a lot for something that could be cut out of some plywood with a jig saw so does anyone know of some online templates or paper templates a guy could purchase and do it hiself. Any thoughts or direction?
Probley get FedX to deliver those. (They come with a warning – "Don't run with scissors in your hand".
Do you want then to just fit or be correct? There are also several mill cuts. Try asking on fordbarn, there is a recommended supplier out there but I don't remember his name. Charlie Stephens
If you want them to fit correctly you can figure a few hours labor and you will at least need a router to do the job.
Here s a photo of an original toe board showing the routed out area. You do not need the round hole unless you are using a actual '32 transmission.
I think there was a set of plans in the "V8 Times" (the Early Ford V8's Club's magazine) probably back in the seventies. Ask on their site earlyfordv8.org or as I said before ask on fordbarn. Charlie Stephens
Yes, the plans for the boards are on the net--I found them with a search and was able to make them with out much trouble. You will need a router and a table saw--at least I did. The two metal brackets are important as they hold the toe board and foot board nice and tight together--there is no other support at that point.
This is where I purchased mine. They will cut in the battery and clutch inspection hole or leave solid. They even have the brackets and screws. Very satisfied. Roy Nacewicz Enterprises 734-654-9450 PO Box 544 Carleton MI 48117
Wow, I cut the ones on both my model A's out of plywood and they worked great but it sounds like these are much more involved than a quick project. I am going to reach out to Roy in Michigan.
I know there is a guy in Hastings, Nebraska that sells very nice repops but can't tell you who he is. I do know Gary from Cornhusker Hot Rods knows him. I am sure he will p*** the information on to you.
Don't think I would use plywood though. I made the rear window framework on my Tudor out of the s****s my boss had left over when he did some (laminated Beechwood) on his '36 Packard roadster. My originals were deteriorated but retained their dimensions and I traced them out. After the pieces are cut I submerged them in a 50/50 mix of turpentine and linseed oil as a preservative and to prevent cracking. This can be painted after drying, if desired.
If you want an authentic looking one it's a lot of bevels and cuts underneath. Here's the before floor that came with the car . It looks like a piece of kitchen linoleum on top, not kidding. The one I purchased from Roy, I'm just finishing up and installing. I had to notch the toe board for the 39 shift tower and do some minor t******* and modification for the relocated battery box. But I pleased the way it came out.
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