Technical 37 Chevy Radiator Cowl/Doghouse Removal

Can I remove the radiator cowl/doghouse without pulling the radiator, water pump, AC compressor and alternator?

I want to remove the hood and doghouse to do some repair...and then I want to repaint both items.

I've searched... with few results. Can I pull the doghouse out..from the front.. after removing the front fenders, etc?

Some internet sites say that you have to pull just about everything from the front of the motor, then remove the radiator... then remove the cowl/doghouse.

Any advice?

 

not knowing how the radiator and air conditioning condenser is mounted makes it an impossible question to answer correctly. on an original truck you would have to remove the whole nose to get the radiator out, there is just not enough room to get the radiator out of the housing with the motor in the way. fortunately the noses come off easily, remove hood, disconnect radiator support, un screw/plug head light wires, drain radiator and disconnect hoses, remove the two bolts under the radiator through the frame, unbolt fenders from running boards and take the nose off together. really easy and there will be lots of room to work.

 

This is a 37 Chevy coupe street rod. SB Chevy.. THM350.. Camaro rear. The condenser and a pusher fan are mounted on the front of the radiator. On the engine side of the radiator is the Sanden AC compressor, an alternator, and of course, the fan and water pump. I want to repair a BIG dent in the bottom of the radiator cowl. It's beyond Bondo.. I could weld rods and pull it out somewhat, but I could do a better job if the cowl was sitting on the ground.

 

dis***embly, draining fluids, re***embly, recharging the ac and filling fluids................or............can you just cut the bottom chin off, fix it and make it a removable piece, so when it happens again [it will] it will be easier to fix?

 

I've thought about cutting it off and making it removable. Aren't the truck cowl chins removable from the factory? I've seen them for sale on EBAY... usually in fibergl***.

But, there are some other things I want to do on the cowl, and I do want to repaint it..

 

The truck chins are not removable per say. They are a separate piece but they are welded in place.

 

That car looks just like my old Chebby . Where was it born at , do you by chance know any history ? Back to the chin , best as I can remember , the lower chin is riveted in and can be removed by removing the rivets . I’m sure it will have to be removed with the nose to get to all the rivets . Removing the grill is possible with removing the nose , this may help you a bunch with removing anything also .

 

Car came from Murfreesboro TN. Gary Wade built it back in the 70’s.

I was hoping for an easy way out. . I’ve got everything working and running well. Hate to tear everything apart, but.

 

I have had several 37 Chevy cars and trucks. (my biggest concern with the 37's was that you could not remove the grille with the radiator and cowl in place.) Remove the hood, loosen the fenders but not necessary to take them off, disconnect your radiator hoses, then remove the two lower bolts under the core support and remove the cowl with the radiator in it. Sounds like a lot but you may find it is easier than you think.

 

I have a 1938 truck I was able to remove the fenders, hood ,the chin on mine is pop riveted once the grill is removed you should be able to see how it's fasten ,I don't have A/C but the dog house is removable if necessary ,support the radiator, the hoses will keep the radiator extended out , you still have wiring to deal with too, my truck is piece together by the previous builder so my setup is not original it looks the part, the car dog house is longer then the one on a truck

 

Thanks to everyone so far for the advice.

Keep that advice coming.

 

37 Chev Radiator Removal by TagMan, on Flickr

 

It is returning to the memory bank , while I was in the process of building my 37 , I made the top of the grill / radiator support removable by drilling out the spot welds and welding nuts to the back side of the holes just for the purpose of removing the grill or radiator . This isn’t going to help you much on a finished car , that is shiny as a new dime . My car was a super nice original car , I can remember all my buddies with muscle cars at the time laughing , you paid $3000.00 for that ? Damn I would buy 5 for that money each , that were rust free and untouched as mine was . Memories !

 

Thanks for all of the replies, links, and suggestions. Looks like I'm gonna have to bite the bullet, and tear a LOT of stuff off the car, including the AC compressor, alternator, fan/water pump, etc. Hate to do it, because everything is working. BUT...........

I'll probably begin after Thanksgiving. I have some other projects going on, and I'm not one to start a new project before another is finished. I know too many guys like that, who are juggling 5 balls in the air. The end result is that nothing gets done..

 

Working on 37 Chevy convertible , rad shell chin is spot welded on to shell . I would remove hood , unbolt fenders then you could access bolts holding radiator to grille shell . Should be able to remove grille shell , might be a three person job will need to support radiator somehow . Will not have to remove water pump , alt etc

 

Sounds reasonable. Something I might try first. Nothing to lose.

Thank you for the suggestion. I've had the fenders off 2-3 times already...for other projects.

 

https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/9776/Chevrolet_Grille_Installation_Sheet_Cuts_Time_In_13.html

 

nothing to it-why do they need 3.5??i could do it in a 1/2 hr -air chisel and self tappers!

 

This works really nice if you do not want to use self tapping screws Threaded insert nuts, this kit comes with aluminum inserts, there is steel ones if you prefer steel from a supplier Grainger or Mc Master -Carr comes to mind