Technical Pin hole in oil pan....

Map gas & silver solder. Clean it very very clean.

 

Fortynut, I don't mean any offense, and your post makes a lot of sense, but the solution to every problem isn't to just pony up the bucks and buy a new part. Seems to me that fixing what you can is part of the history of old-time hot-rodding. Those depression and post-war era kids couldn't just run out and buy a new oil pan every time they got a pin-hole leak. Of course, they didn't have JB Weld and fibergl*** cloth, either, but the spirit of the thing is the same.

 

Drain the oil, clean up the outside of the pan, sand the area, and coat it with JB Weld. Give the JB Weld time to fully cure (we let it sit 8 hours with the drain plug out.), reinstall the drain plug, refill the oil and go. We did the rusted pan on a snowplow that had to plow snow the next morning. Our JB Weld plugged a 1/4" hole that lasted longer then the truck.

I saw a guy blow the valve covers off a motor welding on an oil pan, fire or melting metal on a used oil pan is asking for trouble, sooner or later it will catch up with you. Gene

 

umm, *why* does it have a pinhole leak?

 

I can't speak for the OP, but the last two I fixed were from sitting with water in the engine. Oil floats on water, so it's at the lowest point, eventually rusts through. I had holes in the rod tray of my Model A, I cleaned those and brazed them. My little v8 60 had a pinhole in the oil pan. That's the one I fixed with the JB and fibergl***.

 

I'm lazy, I would just sell the car.

 

oil pan, gas tank repair.....self tapping sheet metal screw . the type they use on metal roofs with the washer attached with rubber disc.......

 

I have fixed a pinhole in my daily driver oil pan with a self tapping screw and a bit of neoprene fuel line, flattened out. Did the same trick on a 500 gal fuel oil tank. Never had a problem.

Of course the real solution is a new oil pan but that is not always practical.

 

I have a Freightliner semi truck that had something off the highway strike the front of the diffirential breaking a hole the size of a golf ball. The previous owner tried to repair damage. It still leaked when I bought the truck. I crawled under the truck . Drained all the gear oil. Thoroughly rinsed the inside with brake clean. ground off all his mess and prepped the area for JB weld. After using 2ea sets of epoxy I was able to make a great clean repair and when done sprayed black paint over the patch. It has been 30K miles and no leaks. Makes a believer out of me of this back yard stuff.
Vic

 

Take it off, clean it up and weld it or cut out the infected area and replace it with better steel. My flathead pan needed an alteration to clear the oil pump I used. Welded up fine, MIG, no leaks. After start up the dip stick tube seal leaked so I removed the pan again, drilled out the rivets, welded nuts inside the pan (so I could fix it next time without so much work) and repainted the pan...again. There is a lot of metal is these old pans. Pretty easy to fix them right.

 

• I have an Old School solution to the problem as well. Remove pan. Clean with Dawn liquid, brushes and plenty of elbow grease. Wash thoroughly. Dry in sun or next to a heater. Dry bottom of pan thoroughly. Place pan across two saw horses and tie on each with baling wire. Mix food dye in water and pour a quart at a time in the pan. Carefully look for leaks and mark with a white China marking pencil exact location. Continue filling until six quarts have been poured into the pan. If you suspect that there is any possibility of a crack or hole being higher, fill to the top. Pour out the liquid when all holes or cracks have been located and marked. Wash out dye liquid and rinse again. Dry thoroughly with air hose and nozzle. Turn pan over and very carefully use a small hammer and sharp pointed center punch make a line of closely spaced dots along the China market lime. This is a replacement for the China marker line that will not last long. Make it equidistant from the line far enough out grinding will not erase it. Carefully grind both sides of the crack and use a cutting disc and grind a trench along the crack. Make sure it is possible to get to the back of the work. Before welding go through all the places you will weld and find something to hold against the backside of the weld. If necessary cut out any baffle to secure the use of a body dolly, or heavy piece of metal. When preparing to weld, go through a practice session with the hammer and dollies to make you can insert the dolly/solid metal on the weld and hammer it while it's still red. Caution, make sure you have a method of securing the still burning torch. Serious burns and fires can result if it falls, or is knocked loose. I won't get.into ' how to weld it'. All old school Rodders were familiar with gas welding, as their current day crop of followers must be. In my opinion the plastic fantastic temporary patches are not old school/ back in the day and are for wimps, clowns, and babies who don't get old school methods. When you have made your repairs make sure that the pan has not been warped by over zealous welding heat. If you think this is a bigger issue, bolt the pan to an old block, a sure sign you are old school, and weld it that way.dress your welds. Go easy don't over do it and grind through the weld, or you will get an old school lesson in how much is too much. Paint, you can cheat here and pretend that spray cans are old school. When you have enough paint to satisfy your old school angel that sits on your shoulder, replace pan with new gasket using a modern sealer on both sides. Many leaks can be attributed to the pan gasket. Fond out what the proper tightening sequence and the suggested foot pounds of torque and follow religiously. No seat of the pants allowed. Refill with oil. And, yed I left out checking your welded work with water/dye ***uming if you are ******** old school you can get by with your welding skills. There are reasons for my being hard nose about this. Failures in maintaining a high level of attention to detail can be attributed to much of the failure in automobile racing and performance. In order to believe in yourself you need to force yourself and others to help your standards high even in the smallest details. Because you can bet good money the person who is always winning is doing that. And, machines no matter how complicated are littlore than a lot of parts that have been put together for a purpose. Thanks for allowing me the time to explain it.

 

I have fixed a few with quality 2 part metal repair epoxy & had great results. (No leaks) definitely needs to be very clean & not leaking (drained & dry) when applied.


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You fancy guys and cleaning stuff. I had a pinhole in my flattie oil pan. I used a "steel stick" puddy that you knead together. Just slapped it over the hole with oil still in the pan. Honestly didn't know if it would seal, but it did.

 

• I have an Old School solution to the problem as well. Remove pan. Clean with Dawn liquid, brushes and plenty of elbow grease. Wash thoroughly. Dry in sun or next to a heater. Dry bottom of pan thoroughly. Place pan across two saw horses and tie on each with baling wire. Mix food dye in water and pour a quart at a time in the pan. Carefully look for leaks and mark with a white China marking pencil exact location. Continue filling until six quarts have been poured into the pan. If you suspect that there is any possibility of a crack or hole being higher, fill to the top. Pour out the liquid when all holes or cracks have been located and marked. Wash out dye liquid and rinse again. Dry thoroughly with air hose and nozzle. Turn pan over and very carefully use a small hammer and sharp pointed center punch make a line of closely spaced dots along the China market lime. This is a replacement for the China marker line that will not last long. Make it equidistant from the line far enough out grinding will not erase it. Carefully grind both sides of the crack and use a cutting disc and grind a trench along the crack. Make sure it is possible to get to the back of the work. Before welding go through all the places you will weld and find something to hold against the backside of the weld. If necessary cut out any baffle to secure the use of a body dolly, or heavy piece of metal. When preparing to weld, go through a practice session with the hammer and dollies to make you can insert the dolly/solid metal on the weld and hammer it while it's still red. Caution, make sure you have a method of securing the still burning torch. Serious burns and fires can result if it falls, or is knocked loose. I won't get.into ' how to weld it'. All old school Rodders were familiar with gas welding, as their current day crop of followers must be. In my opinion the plastic fantastic temporary patches are not old school/ back in the day and are for wimps, clowns, and babies who don't get old school methods. When you have made your repairs make sure that the pan has not been warped by over zealous welding heat. If you think this is a bigger issue, bolt the pan to an old block, a sure sign you are old school, and weld it that way.dress your welds. Go easy don't over do it and grind through the weld, or you will get an old school lesson in how much is too much. Paint, you can cheat here and pretend that spray cans are old school. When you have enough paint to satisfy your old school angel that sits on your shoulder, replace pan with new gasket using a modern sealer on both sides. Many leaks can be attributed to the pan gasket. Find out what the proper tightening sequence and the suggested foot pounds of torque are; and, follow religiously. No seat-of-the-pants allowed. Refill with proper type and amount of oil. Pre-oil.And, yes, I left out checking your welded work with water/dye ***uming if you are ******** old school you can get by with your welding skills. There are reasons for my being hard-nose about this. Failures in maintaining a high level of attention to detail can be attributed to much of the failure in automobile racing and performance. In order to believe in yourself, you need to force yourself and others to keep up to your high standards, even in the smallest of details. Because you can bet good money, the person who is always winning is doing that in order to keep everything in top of the hill order. And, machines; no matter how complicated they are, have been built of a lot of smaller parts, that have been put together for a purpose. It takes attention to details to do that and keep them that way. Losers loose parts. Winners keep their parts together.

 

I did not remove the oil pans on the ones I repaired with epoxy.



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Sometimes we just do what we gotta do, and the people and cir***stances dictate what you gotta do.

Maybe the guy just wants to NOT leak on the driveway.

Maybe some people are strapped for cash and time. Epoxy will get someone out of that cash time jamb pretty easy. It's not a permanent fix to the problem but it does make the symptom go away quickly, easily, cheaply, and for a lot longer than any ******** patch job should.
If the pan is rusty I can guarantee you the repair doesn't need to be pretty

 

Gonna bump this thread and hopefully not need to start a new one. So I have been trying to weld up a pinhole leak in a gas tank. It had been brazed before in another spot so I figured I'd tig it with silicon bronze. Problem is every time I do and pressure test it (soap on the outside, air inside) it has a new pinhole leak at the edge of the bronze, and it moves every time I hit it again. This tank has been bone try for years. What's the trick, argon inside the tank?

 

is the tank tin plated? Solder seems to stick well to tinned gas tanks...

 

blowby>>>What's the trick,...?>>>

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...uct_id=83/category_id=133/mode=prod/prd83.htm

Jack E/NJ

 

No bare steel. Not this first time this has happened to me, there must me a trick to it. Besides a plastic tank..

 

try brazing it with a torch, and normal brazing flux (or coated rod).

My guess is that it's just pissed at you for trying to heliarc something that should be done with a torch

 

Thanks, I was thinking the same thing (torch). Will try that.

 

Sounds like your gas tank is full of rust and pinholes. This is common on old gas tanks. They are made of a special steel called Terne Plate. When the plating wears off they rust. The cure is to buy a new tank if they are available or coat the tank with sealer. There are several good brands of tank sealer, be sure to follow the directions if you want the job to last.

 

Clean and prep as mentioned above. I used a 2 part Loc***e urethane UK U -05FL. I picked it for temp, oil resistance, and some flex retention. A piece of plastic window screen between 2 coats.

 

Remove the pan, clean it around the leak, get some silicon bronze rod and a small torch and braze it. I use silicon bronze rod because the metal around a pin hole is often very thin and hard to weld. Silicon bronze rod melts at a much lower temp than the thin metal and wicks into the hole. Go to your welding supplier and they will probably give you a stick of 1/16" for free.

Phil

 

i had the same problem, i thought maybe some of the galvanizing on the inside of the tank was creeping towards the heat of the weld, then burning off leaving a pin hole. i ended up welding in a circle, around the hole and working my way in.

 

Self tapping screw with a nylon washer, covered with epoxy. Clean the area before and after the screw is installed.

 

Up here in Pa we have this beautiful salt brine that eventually gets to the oil and transmission pan. The mechanics drain the system and rub the previously mentioned silicone on for a temporary permanent fix.

 

My thought exactly. Can be repaired with epoxy until the next pinhole appears, and the one after that. Pinholes in gas tanks, rads and oil pans means time for replacement.

 

Agree...