Any way to research to find out the Micron rating of a filter, hydraulic filter d126921..Trying to find rating to see if compatable with an engine oil filter..
Call any place that is a dealer for that brand. They should have a book that gives the details on all filters. Bones
Did some research, your number crosses to Baldwin BT-526-10 which crosses to Hastings HF729 which is a 25 micron filter. If you need a 40 micron filter the number is HF730. Remember when you cross reference filters, some changes in specs can happen. The D126921 Filter comes up as a Case filter. Bones
Thanks Bones! You got way, way farther than I did! Yes it is a Case filter..I have a filter mount with the big threads which takes the Case filter; in the Case Hyd system 10-30 engine oil is used so trying to figure if Case filter will work in place of a PH8 [typ Ford] filter..Thinking that Micron rating would be a consideration factor since the oil used is the same. What did you use for search?
What year and model case? I know their skidsteers use aw32 in the hydraulics But 10w-30 in the chain cases. Not sure but the size of the filter and how much it flows might concern me with not being able to get oil into and out of the filter fast enough to prevent starvation.
Yes I guess GPM in combo with Microns would be a matter..The Case filter goes to an 1818, about 1995 vintage and according to the manual takes 10-30w engine oil in the Hydraulics and the chain drives, engine..
The hydraulic system in a skidsteer is going to flow way more GPM than pretty much any traditional or non-traditional V8. The filter in question has a 1.25"/12 threaded inlet. I love lmgtfy.
Thanks..You know first thing I did was go to google but I got a whole bunch of off the wall crap; in retrospect i don't think it was opening all the way and short changing my search..Thanks for posting..I went back and seems to be fine now..I swear everything likes to mess with me!!
Fyi, there is no standard for filter efficiency. For example, 2 different brand filters rated at 25 micron can be completely different because one can catch 5% of the 25 micron particles(5% efficiency) and the other one can catch 75% of the 25 micron particles(75% efficient at 25 micron). You really need the efficiency rating to even worry about micron ratings. Some manufacturers will slap a micron rating on a filter that doesn't filter worth a damn at that micron level because it caught a few particles in a test. Anyway, don't judge a filter by its micron rating unless you have the efficiency percentage.... an apple is not always equal to an apple. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just so Im following, youre plumbing a Case hydraulic filter and base in as a remote engine oil filter?
Yes that is what I'm thinking..So far not only microns [10 for the hyd filter, around 20 for engine filter] has been brought up but GPM [hyd around 20+ and engine at 8] and percentage rating [beta 1, beta 2?] and last is there a anti-drain back valve..The Case hyd filter does not seem to have one compared to a PH8 but does have a by pass..Poking around Google has a myriad of write ups and U-tube tear downs with a lot of conflicting facts..And I was just worried about Microns!
Looking the the BT526 I would guess it is rated for around 10 GPM. I see no specs for it in my research. The 10 micron rating is average pore size and it is a cellulose design. The best filters are synthetic design where the media is woven and each pore is of an exact size. So a 10 micron means the filter will trap all particles 10 micron and larger . The pressure drop (resistance) is much less than the cellulose design but you will pay around 4 times as much. One other advantage for the synthetic design is that they are Beta tested and the efficiency is published and quite often printed on the outside of the filter. Using the manufacturer's literature, you can calculate the pressure drop at different temperatures also. That is important for cold start-up situations where oil viscosity can go from 150SUS to 10,000SUS. That can cause bypass valves to open while the oil is warming up and you will not be filtering anything. Downside is that the synthetic design is not common in the automotive market but primarily industrial. Some of the quality manufacturer's however such as Hydac, Parker, Pall, MP etc offer spin-on designs and it is quite likely they would have a element to fit the post for the Baldwin. But the GPM number is important to know in order to insure that you are filtering and not running oil over a bypass valve. But if you are going to filter engine oil and not a high pressure hydraulic system the BT series would be fine. We drive automobiles for thousands of miles with cheap filters. I just wanted to point out a few things regarding efficiency, GPM and pressure drop.
SEB, I just searched on the internet, I use Yahoo search engine. Most all filter sites were giving the same basic info. So I called the phone number at the bottom on The Hastings site and got the info. Back to what you want to do, you do not have to use that filter, the are dozens of filters that will screw onto your mounting plate that may work better fir you. Go to your local O’Reilly’s and ask to look at their Wix specifications book. It will give you all you need to select a proper filter. Bones
Here is the appropriate page in the WIX catalog: http://wixfilters.com/OfflineCatalog/Interchange-Product-Numeric/765/index.html#zoom=z
If you want to know more than you really want to know, Google "iso filtration standards" and "The Systemic Approach to Contamination Control - Eaton".
Just one comment regarding the above cut from Oilguy's post. In hydraulic systems the filter is plumbed into the return side of the system, rather than the pressure side as in most engines. A filter on the pressure side of a hydraulic system would basically disappear when it got hit by 2500+psi operating pressure. Unless you have a dry sump setup, it's pretty much impossible to filter the return side in a traditional engine.
While I don’t think a hydraulic filter will work on an automotive engine for a number of reasons posted. A lot of hydraulic systems have both a high pressure and return filter ( some times multiples of both) ( I work on a metal shredder that has a total of six hydraulic filter both under pressure and return) All the hydraulic filters on the pressure side that I have seen have not had any valves or restrictors in them and are basically a huge hole in and out as most systems run between 2300-5000 psi so the fluid needs to “move” rather quickly in a closed loop system to build and maintain the flow and psi required.
The pressure filters used in hydraulic systems are high collapse elements. They have been used for decades to remove contaminants near the inlet of servo valves which need 5 micron or better absolute filtration. Some are non-bypass so when clogged they will stop the oil supply rather than allow it to enter critical components. I have used them dozens of times also on closed-loop drives where reverse flow valves are included to allow reverse free flow. Sorry to be so OT but the above statement is way off base. On systems I designed the HP filters were standard items on equipment operating at 3000 PSI and above and placed near the pump outlets. If the pump grenades, components downstream are protected. You can find information on HP units in the Eaton literature that rockable referred to. Very common practice.
I guess I'm just familiar with the hydraulics on my old tractor and log splitter. Sorry for any confusion or misinformation. Let the beatings begin.
How the Hell did we get so OT? Probably my fault. Anyway, return filters are pretty much a standard on machinery that is used infrequently or subjected to low operating hours whose components have a high tolerance for contamination. The high pressure stuff is for equipment such as Vandenplas works with. Expensive to build and the applications do not tolerate downtime. Unless you work in the industrial or manufacturing field you would most likely not be aware of such things. The lift in my shop doesn't even have a filter. I just feel I need to dump the oil about every two years. If someone made a synthetic filter that would fit my cars I would buy them in a heart beat. Haven't found any yet. Maybe someone on here knows of such a product.
OT or not its all good info; way more than I knew at the start..Sometimes I think too much..I have an Oberg filter on my SBF with a 3 micron screen ..Has bi pass valve that opens for 1-3 seconds on cold start, full flow otherwise and no anti drain back valve..I would get another if they still made a 3 micron screen but what I see is 28, 60, and 115..Will stop the gravel but not the sand, I will contact Oberg to find the reason for no more #3....3 microns is .0001182 so my eyes lite up when I saw the 10 micron Hyd filter [.000394] ; especially when research showed typical engine filter at around 20 microns with a % rating!..Thanks to all for input, big time bunch of knowledge!!
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