I just received a new batch of por15..It is very thin, about like water and doesn't cover well at all, like brushing on black milk....I don't remember it being that thin in the past and it develops fish eyes after a bit..It seems to harden in the right amount of time..My memory off or is the new por15 different or even bad batch?
My last patch, 4 cans, was very watery. Super thinned out. Took 5 days to harden and thoroughly dry. I’m not very pleased. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
I remember POR15 as being a little thicker. I liked the way it brushed on. Even lying on my back doing the frame. I more recently tried Eastwood's rust product and found it very thin and thought I'd go back to POR15. Now I wonder. Interested in other observations.
Thats just the first time you opened it. Next time you open it will be thick. Third time a brick. I can't stand the stuff, but i still use it cause it works
I've seen the bricks many times; even got some solvent to reduce when pre brick but don't remember it being as thin on new can..
Would it help to put some hardener, like the stuff used to harden plastic resin, to make it set faster? I always used Metalprep, which I can't find anymore. Does Por15 work just as well? Bob
Buy the smallest can possible and a little goes a long way. The last I got was a quart can.. big mistake. Way too much. I had to mangle the lid to get it off and had a lot leftover. I put that in a spaghetti sauce jar and it sealed okay, I opened it and it had a thin skin over it, the rest I just chucked. I'm going to check out an Eastwood product before I try the POR15 again. On my Ford, I used it on the inside of my doors, under my front splash pan, inside the headlight openings in the front fenders. It would be a better product if it came in a spray can. I used a cheap $1 brush and tossed it after I was done.
KBS has a spray can of nitrogen or some such thing that when you close your can to give it a 2 second blast and the air is pushed out,this keeps it from forming a skin on the top and use cling wrap to help seal the can, you need to clean the edges of the can very well or the lid glues on big time, the glass jar works well. I'll put a plug in for a buddy of mine. Hopefully I didn't cross the line. http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/ Eddy.Lucast@remotedata.com 203-228-1961
We always keep a can in the shop.I found the trick is to not shake or the lid will cement itself on. Never brush right out of the can , I pour the amount I need in a coffee cup and work out of that.Never pour any un used matieral back into the can.Clean the rim spotless before closing the cover. After closing seal the rim with masking tape as a precaution of letting air in the can.When I see the can no longer seals properly ,I pour the remainder into the plastic paint containers that my ppg/ aquabase tints come in.I usually get to use 80-90 % of what comes in the can.You have to remember that the more times you open the can,the more air that it is exposed to,and that is what sets off the drying reaction.Wear your gloves !
^^^ What Model A says and yes ,I believe it is now thinner which sucks because you really don't want that stuff running off the brush while working upside down. I sure it's still good stuff ,did my 31' floors top and bottom with it along with the 54'. I like the Eastwood spray stuff for inside of rockers and frames.
Gents, instead of opening the lid, use two self taping screws with the rubber gaskets. Run one self tapper in the top near the sealing edge and the other self tapper 180* opposite the first screw. Now you have an opening that can be poured out of and the other is for venting. After pouring out the needed amount of POR 15 screw the rubber gasket self tapping screws back in. The can is now resealed with minimal air getting into the can. Once opened, I store it in the shops refrigerator.
That's great, but how do you stir it if you don't take the lid off? I've been told not to shake the can, just to stir it. In my case, I just lay a sheet of saran wrap over the top of the can, then put the lid on. Next time I open it I just take the saran wrap off and put a new piece on when done. No problems with lid sticking yet.
The Saran Wrap would work to keep the top from sealing from the POR 15. But it won’t stop it from gettin hard in the can, after taking the top off and exposing to oxygen. If needs to be stirred, then it can be shaken just like paint, so put it in a paint shaker and brush or spray it on......haven’t had a problem doing it that way. Just mak sure there isn’t any oil or petroleum type products on the metal before applying. If there is, it will peal off the metal in sheets.
I guess my thinkine the Por15 is thin was on line..I'm sort of adding up the previous posts, method, suggestions as I like the stuff once its on and cured so here is my future plan..Install two screws, one in the center of the cover and one near the sealing lip..The one in the center to be able insert a wire with about 1" of right angle bend at one end, insert 1" bend into center hole and spin wire with electric drill to mix and the one near sealing lip to pour..If too thin leave screws out for a bit and recheck..Using the holes purge air out with Argon and get the screws in..Hopefully will pour out at next use!
All too much work ...I clean the lid lip real good after use and put it on the shelf UPSIDE down......no air gets to the lid to stick.I have used the same quart 4 of 5 tines and never a concern...I do this with every paint can latex or oil too. Go ahead and try it.
. ,Seb, that's what I did, I stuck the end of my mig welder gun over one of the screw holes in the lid and with the wire speed turned to zero gave her about two seconds worth....been about 3 years and it still sounds like liquid!
I buy 1/2 pints cans open stir and reseal with wax paper then store upside down on second use it is empty
Sorry, but just as much air will enter the can this way as it will by opening the can up. As paint exits the can through one hole it will draw air in the other hole. It has to, or the paint would not pout out of the can.
Back to the OP, yeah, I recently bought and used some POR15, and yes it was very thin. I did not have any trouble with it drying though. It dried to a nice hard finish just like it's supposed to, I would say within 12 - 24 hours. Painted it 1 day, was dried the next.
No matter how you seal the top, plastic, wax paper, screws, etc., it's the volume of air inside a partially used can that starts the hardening process. The lower the liquid, more air to react with it. It's more a matter of how much moisture is in the air that dictates how fast it hardens (It IS an MCU, moisture cured urethane). I do the MIG gas trick, and keep it in the fridge, with the top covered with plastic wrap ( just so the lid doesn't glue itself to the can).
Is there a spray-can alternative to POR15? I know they make spray exhaust manifold and caliper paint in spray cans. Seems like it would work better than brushing in some cases.
Thanks, I have their site book marked and will check it later. My POR15 experience using it was fine, it was the mangled can that got my goat about it.
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