Looking for advice on replacing the wood and top on 31 ford , Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Picked up this project the top has most of the wood some in bad shape other looks really good should I replace all of it ? This is a full fender rod it's going need blocks on frame I'm thinking. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
It would be best to replace it all if you are going use a a org style top and rain gutters. also makes it easier on your interior guy when they have to intall the headliner and has something to nail to later kb
If you buy a kit, you usually can't pick and choose the wood you want. You get the "kit." If you fabricate the wood yourself, just replace the rotten, cracked wood and keep the good stuff. Personally, with my 1930 Coupe I replaced all the wood with steel except for the bows and rails in the top. I bought the wood kit and put it in for the looks. But I did the door headers and windshield header all in steel for strength. The car doesn't flex much now at all compared to how loose it felt was when I started. The original wood was both cracked and rotted. Hope that helps a bit.
I user Cubel's (Fordwood) when I re-wooded my T roadster. Good product, price was in line, but sometimes there's a little wait for the wood.
We put a new upper wood kit in my 31 Model A Coupe. I ordered it from Snyders. I am very happy with the wood and the quality is great, that wood is hard as a rock! It really stiffened the body up as well once it was installed. I also ordered the original black vinyl roof insert from Synders.. They are not difficult to put in, but installation is a 2 person job. Buy good short nails with the little bur on the nail shaft (nails that don't back out) I love the look of the black vinyl roof insert. I get a lot of people asking where I found it; it sure turned out nice. It's nice to hear you want a vinyl roof insert.
got any pictures of the steel? I'm about to do it now and dunno how far i should go with it, also did you treat in behind the areas before welding in the steel? to prevent rust?
thats what i was thinking, maybe just run the wood around the roof and the roof bows, replace everything else, should help stiffen up body, and can attach seat belts to it for above shoulder
Painted with Rustolium behind the steel with a brush. Replaced the door and windshield headers with steel. Kept bows & rails wood. Love the look I got. WeezeDSCN0286 by Weezy1930 posted Oct 17, 2014 at 10:41 AM WeezeDSCN0285 by Weezy1930 posted Oct 17, 2014 at 10:41 AM WeezeDSCN0284 by Weezy1930 posted Oct 17, 2014 at 10:41 AM I actually fabricated the door headers outside the car on my brother's frame jig and mocked up the whole assembly with the wood rails on the jig. We welded all the stock wood mounts to the backside of the steel so it looks "stock" and "clean" when looking at it from the interior. Then I fitted the assembly back into the car.
One Note: As you can see, the rear rail mount is not welded on to the steel like the other mounts, but bolts on instead. This was needed so that the wood could be installed. If the rear mount was welded on, you'd paint yourself into a corner and could not install the wood. Many hours of "milk crate time" gave me that rather important insight. Be careful not to paint yourself into a corner and end up unable to squeeze the wood into the steel assembly!
Do you weld the overlapped, nailed seam that runs across the top and down the back of the door opening? I was planning on pulling the wood, welding it in, then fully welding this seam, obviously the top one is covered by a garnish mould, but the vertical one at the back of the door, weld and then grind the whole weld back flush Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Above the doors, yes, I had my brother weld the sheet metal to the angle iron across the entire top of the door headers where it was originally nailed to the wood. The garnish molding then indeed covered up the welded seam. It gets so strong and rigid that a few gaps in the seam weld won't hurt one bit. You'll love how sturdy the car gets. For the door post, I actually left the old wood inside as it was not rotten. Then I boxed the exposed wood with angle iron to beef it up structurally. In your case, you could either spot weld all the nail holes for the "look" of nails, or weld the entire length of the seam and grind it smooth. Either way would look nice. I think spot welds would be plenty strong as there were lots of nail holes there. It's your call--but you are on the right track.
Above the door headers, weld nuts on the backside of the angle iron before you install it to attach the garnish molding. Or use sheet metal screws to attach it. I fished nuts up there with my fingers after the fact (and it can be done) but in hindsight, sheet metal screws or welded nuts on the backside would have made mounting the garnish molding easier. Also watch so your door gaps don't shift on you. I didn't brace the body when I took out the wood and had no problems, but be careful. Don't want to weld her up and find the doors won't close.
I think if I do one piece at a time, and just tack it in, then brace it all right before final welding, which will just be around 80000 tacks haha then I'm sure it'll be sweet Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Just installed a top kit from Snyders , nice tight fit , great product .As well as a great company to work with , No problems returning double orders or any other mistake I made , I guess thats why Dad swore by them .
I replaced all mine with wood from Howells. www.fordor.com and it all went pretty well. Then I put the top material on using a method I found on either here or Ford Barn. I used a flat fiber type material that I glued and tacked on, then used body putty to make everything really smooth. I might have some pictures at www.picturetrail.com/bartmcneill
I just placed an order for the wood top kit from Classic Wood for my '31 Slant Window Fordor. http://classicwoodproductsllc.com/model a.html If you need a wood kit order or buy before January first and avoid the price increase, due to the Emerald Ash Bore infestation that has ruined ash forests. Bob
I see this is an old thread. Anyone here with any experience running the bows the length of the vehicle instead of cross the cab? Looking to leave mine open but do something different.
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