And WD40 Not too Much HEAT warm the axle not the bolt........ And dont Mushroom the end of the perch bolt......... Use a alloy or br*** drift if its too late cut the bolt and start again Good luck
Here is the BEST way to get the perches out. Take a air chisel with the pointed punch end in it. Flip the wishbone and axle over and there will be a indention in the center of the perchs that the air chisel punch will fit right into. Now go at it with the air chisel, everyone that I have tried this on came right out. I had a wishbone that I could not get the perches out, I heated them and beat on them with a sledgehammer for 2 weeks until someone on the hamb told me about the air chisel, I had them out in 5 minutes with the air chisel.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that that, probably this week. This air chiesel thing is a neat. Anyone ever try to remove that lefthanded stud on a late model Ford waterpump that holds the clutch and fan? They sell a special tool. My buddy bought the cheap Advanced Auto Parts tools and it still wouldn't come a part. Took it to a shop and the mechanic had a Snap-On tool. Still wouldn't budge. Same guy got pissed and took an air chiesel to one flat and PRESTO, it came apart like magic. Left one small mark on the hex that we filed off. So, perch pins, here I come.
If you will heat the axle just a little (axle inverted heat from underneath) - enough so that if you touch a candle to the pin on top now - so that the wax will run down the side of the pin...it will come right out...no pounding or pushing needed...just tap it a little. The heat ****s the wax in and lubes the pin. Good luck.
I popped out my perches in my press, but next time I'm going with Willys trucks idea, and I'm also going to try godzillas idea as well. Got to break down my pile of axle ***embleys. Can't beat this place for good ideas.
I saw that trick over at my friend Sparky's (jalopy43) place for the first time just this weekend. I couldn't believe how well it worked, and I'd soaked these things in WD40 for a week and we'd pounded on them for an hour. 2 minutes with the heat/wax trick and they practically fell out.
The air chisel does not work good on the kingpins, the kingpins are hardened steel and the chisel bounces around, it will not get a "bite" in the hardened steel. You might be able to make a indention in the kingpin with a drill bit, just to give the air chisel a place to fit into. But like I said, I have had VERY good luck with the chisel on the perches. The last pair of perches I took out with the chisel trick, I did not oil them or anything!
Are you outa luck if your split bones are welded to the perches. I would like to use my wishbones with a dropped axle but they are currently welded to the perches. Mark
When beating on the things, remember that they are softer than your tools! Leave the nut on flush with end until the loosen; better, get a "knocker", a primitive hub remover available still for about $5 from Ford resto places. This thing, which is just a big closed-end nut, gives you a solid place to hammer, protects the threads, and fits Ford pins, steering shaft, and axles--all the places that incite violence.
Bruce, Good idea, but......... How many folks here have had the end of the perch pin collapse right where the cotter key hole is? And that's with a sacrifical not on the pin. The last pins I took out were on my California (almost) rust free '38 Ford 4-door convert. These were the hardest, by far, of any I've ever taken out. And that was after treating the pins with Kano Labs AeroKroil for two weeks before I tackled the job. These required the axle to be red hot to get'em out. Needless to say, I couldn't save the pins.
WD-40 is not a good extreme pressure lube. The wax trick has god me out of a lot of bad situations before. Try 90wt. gear lube on the pins from the bottom also. Sparky
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