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Technical Holley 94/92 carb gurus I need some help!

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 12secvx, Dec 22, 2018.

  1. 12secvx
    Joined: Sep 17, 2015
    Posts: 69

    12secvx
    Member

    Well I will start out by giving a little background info. I’m rebuilding a pair of Holley 92’s basically a 7/8” base Holley 94 for my A banger. I installed new throttle shafts from speedway after I had them reamed to correct size and did a little polishing on the new shafts they turn freely. The issues I have are the accelerator pump arm in the second throttle actuator hole will not go full throttle because of the Allen head screw that holds it on to the new speedway shaft hit the link. And the other is the accelerator pump spring will not return the throttle to the closed position. It does not have the pump return spring like on the 2100’s. Has anyone else had these issues I’d so I did you fix them. Thanks in advance Ben.
     
  2. Ben can you put up a couple of pics showing the interference issue?
     
  3. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 5,325

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Sounds a little like the wrong accelerator pump rod. Pics would be helpful.
     
  4. 12secvx
    Joined: Sep 17, 2015
    Posts: 69

    12secvx
    Member

    1B6146C7-2F08-42C1-959A-33C0727C4EF5.jpeg 445F32DC-AB0E-4182-9281-66AAF6BD5DE3.jpeg EAB90B20-1C73-4CB4-8BB8-3465377A798C.jpeg Here are a couple pictures the one has the point of contact circled. And the butterflies pic shows the aren’t all the way open yet. The last is a picture of the accelerator pump and 2 of the links which look to be the same and interfere the same.
     
  5. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,162

    AngleDrive
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Florida

    Nope, Just 'Speedway' parts that are not engineered correctly.
     
    Truck64 likes this.
  6. 12secvx
    Joined: Sep 17, 2015
    Posts: 69

    12secvx
    Member

    Well I guess the only way to fix the pump rod interface is to do some slight “modifications” which is silly I think. On the other issue has anyone used those accelerator pump return springs that go under the pump to help return it or used any other other methods? Or is this just how they are and a throttle linkage return spring is needed?
     
  7. sdroadster
    Joined: Jul 27, 2006
    Posts: 446

    sdroadster
    Member

    I would move the accelerator pump linkage to the third hole. It would seem that you would gain clearance on the linkage, and the butterflies would then have the ability to go full open.
     
  8. 12secvx
    Joined: Sep 17, 2015
    Posts: 69

    12secvx
    Member

    What adjustment is it with 3 holes? The amount of squirt by the accelerator pump?
     
  9. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,162

    AngleDrive
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Florida

    Put a countersunk screw in place of the allen screw. If you don't have the proper counter sink then grind a drill that is just a hair over the diameter of the head of the screw with the correct angle. Be careful when counter sinking the plate that drill doesn't grab. Screw would then be flush. You need to be able to utilize all three holes for tuning. Don't put a spring under the accelerator pump. Just use a return spring on your throttle linkage. Pump moves a different distance when changing holes.
     
  10. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,162

    AngleDrive
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Florida

    ,
    Yes, they were for summer and winter driving.
     
  11. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    Or just relieve the link to clear the allen head.
     
  12. 12secvx
    Joined: Sep 17, 2015
    Posts: 69

    12secvx
    Member

    Anyone else had this issue with the accelerator pump not able to return to idle?
     
  13. Stormin Norman
    Joined: Feb 2, 2016
    Posts: 1

    Stormin Norman

    Old post.... but yes, mine did the same. Used button head Allen screws. Cleared fine.
     

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