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Technical Steering problems

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Mike Colemire, Dec 18, 2018.

  1. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,524

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Any way that anyone decides to p**** this, this is the breakdown:

    A stock Model A had a wheelbase of 103.5". The target Ackerman point is 103.5" behind the front axle centerline.

    If like components are used, unmodified, as a front steer setup, the Ackerman point will be 103.5" IN FRONT of the front axle centerline.

    This isn't something that is open for debate. That arrangement is guaranteed to break traction on one of the front wheels, at any speed. Whether or not that causes you to lose control of the vehicle may come as an unfortunate surprise.

    At the very minimum, if the OP is unable to do anything else, he needs to heat and bend the steering arms until the they are almost dragging on the rotors. That won't make it right, but it will reduce the potential harm.

    Insufficient Ackerman angle is not the same as inverted Ackerman angle.
     
    sunbeam and trollst like this.
  2. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,524

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No worries. It helps folks better understand how front steer can be made to work, if planned for.
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2018
    trollst likes this.
  3. oldtom69
    Joined: Dec 6, 2009
    Posts: 583

    oldtom69
    Member
    from grandin nd

    Thank you thirty-two,that is exactly how proper ackerman is located!And s55mercury66 -yes just about every sprint car built in the last 40 years uses two radius rods one one side and one on the other to get rid of the bind.If you don't like that look,check out an old CAE front axle with wishbone radius rods,they mount the wishbone on one side of the axle on a sleeve allowing it to pivot.
     
    Andy likes this.
  4. Gary Addcox
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 2,576

    Gary Addcox
    Member

    Hairpins and "round" axles don't mix por caca. If your wheels are centered in the fenders, the front crossmember is not properly located. Fords had front springs mounted on top of the axle through '34. Sounds like some bad engineering all the way around. That tube axle will require a 4-bar setup to eliminate breaking things and a rigid ride.
     
  5. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,396

    sunbeam
    Member

    If you like the look of model A split bones on a tube axle modify the axle to accept rubber shackle bushing on one side.
     
  6. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,686

    birdman1
    Member

    i had to put a lot of caster on my 39 coupe with a similar setup. castor at least makes it go straight!
     
  7. init1
    Joined: Jan 6, 2009
    Posts: 74

    init1
    Member

    I think I would start over with a dropped original axle, Ford wishbones and stock steering joints. We know all that works and can be adjusted correctly.
    Just a thought....

    Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    gimpyshotrods and Andy like this.
  8. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,332

    sdluck
    Member

    I have a 29 model A,I have owned since 1998,my buddy owned it before me and somebody else before him.It has a SBC, turbo 350 and olds rear with hairpins ,dropped tube axel,the frame was not boxed.Never had a problem.
     
  9. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,431

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    I know the tube axle doesn't have the flex a forged axle has, but since I've got everything I'm going to give it a try. It's a fenderless car and if it doesn't handle to suit me, I'll change it out. Won't be no more work than if I do it now. I'm going to keep my eye out for some parts in the mean time. I like the look of the split bones and drilled forged axle.
     

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