Let's see some sheet metal shaping

Nice work! Don't you love that magnetic brake? I love mine.

 

In the dictionary under “fearless” is a picture of @toreadorxlt.

 

Thank you for the kind words. Here is a picture of it all done with the motor, anvil and rotating assembly on. Next to it is my homemade pullmax.



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DAM dude, and you were concerned when you started the Hot Rod build if you could pull it off. LOL Hot Rod and machines all came out GREAT.

 

excuse my ignorance(please!)...but what different tasks do they each do,and do dies interchange at all??-thanks,and they are BEAUTIES!!

 

I just finished tacking the inner fenders I showed the page before this. I have a ways yet to go but out of argon. I had to make bracketry etc to hold the antenna motor and heater hose bulkhead mounting pad under the hood hinge or else I'd have been done a couple days ago.

I made this little pad for the antenna, it is leaded in and turned out pretty good.

 

Very nice it’s good to see someone leading I give you props for that nice work! Hobo Jim

 

Really nice work OJ, it looks great. Was that originally like that ?

 

I am glad someone else uses dutchboy

 

Good on you keeping working with lead alive. And the mod looks very good.

 

Actually, no. There were 2 other antenna's have been added. The first hole was plugged and a 2nd hole made but they didn't look inside and the actual antenna ran into structural stuff inside the fender. I cut out this section and welded in what you see and then made the new hole for the antenna. It looked exactly like what it was, an antenna added to the fender so I made the mounting pad. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

Good story ! Great job !


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An update on the Biederman truck, John came across a donor truck with an authentic 1947 Galion dump body, which matches his 47 Biederman perfectly.



It needed some repair work on it but it was a good one to start with. He took it to a local shop and had the tailgate rebuilt, added a cab guard and replaced the floor. It will show a few authentic dents when finished but he says he prefers that to a new edition body on an old truck.







These next pictures really show why we need to add the skirt between the cab and running board.





The skirt will rest on top of the running board flange, with a rubber edge trim to save some paint rubbing. Here's our sample bend that will rest on top of the flange. (it's shown upside-down...)



The dump body and other remaining parts will be also be painted blue, he plans to paint this spring.

 

Nice job. Do you have plans for the cab of the donor truck? It looks pretty savable.

I realize you will probably be using the Biederman as a show vehicle. If it were to be used as a serious work truck would not the "Zee" bend in the skirting be a source of dirt and moisture accumulation, leading to rust out?

 

​

Its already been sold to the new owner. John is all about keeping old trucks on the road!


The original design had multiple pieces that was more prone to dirt /mud/water from both the front and back side. We simplified the design with this profile (can't leave well enough alone!) where the outside will not be a trap, and the back side will be epoxy primered to excess, and may even add seam sealer over top of that, in hopes it will be a more permanent covering. Thanks for the comments/questions!

 

Earlier this year I had to restore a XK150 roadster, among some of the parts I had to fab for it was the bottom of the oil pan that looked like swiss cheese

Welded, I actually replaced a little bit less than what I planned at first.

Done

I also found a pic of the right bottom cowl I made for one of my friends 36 Chevy 2 door sedan

I actually made both sides and plenty of other parts for his car, but I tend to take less and less pictures of what I fab and of the cars I'm working on, I guess I'm getting blasé...

 

I don't know if any of you can see the first and last pictures but I see a big red X and when I try to edit the post they appear just fine And editing doesn't change the result???

 

I see all the pictures just fine.

 

Same here

 

Got a new addition to the shop, this Meco came from TM Technologies, or TinManTech. I got it hooked up last night and ran a couple passes.



Let me start by saying I am not a gas welder. I have a Henrob torch that I have found awkward to use, likely the operator, so I have always used either MIG or TIG. This video shows my second attempt with the Meco, the first attempt I did not have sufficient heat as I was worried about blowing holes. The two “scraps” were picked off the floor and tacked together about every 3/4”, then fusion welded the distance shown, yielding a full penetration weld with nice HAZ conisistency. Very impressed with the light weight and ease of use, even for an old dog learning new tricks. Video shows in order: front, back, planished, and bent at 90* for our destruction test.




Tacks, front side..



Rear side, full penetration...




Full pass with full weld penetration, bent 90* for destruction test.. Line shown is mark left by press brake die....



Rear side held up well



Very impressed with this torch, one handed valve adjustments are a breeze, light weight and easy to use..

 

Good on you keeping gas welding alive. Teach your younger staff too.

 

Torch is a torch. If you have tig, why screw around with this nonsense. Look how much heat you put in the parts, all that oxidation, and relatively little temperature control of the puddle compared to tig. Gas welding was good when these cars were new and it's all there was, now it is mostly good for portable welding where you can't power a tig. I'm sure there will be some disagreement with my opinion, but I believe gas welding is a poor substitute.

 

Where the gas torch really shines is when joining aluminum panels for coach work... A TIG will give you a nice weld on aluminum but the back side will most likely need a weld pass as well, which is not always accessible. The gas torch when welding aluminum will give a good weld bead on both sides. I'd venture that someone that does indeed use the torch for aluminum would use it for steel where practical to maintain skillset.


I was asked to bend the weld sample to a complete 180* to give the weld a "REAL" test. So the following video does such, please excuse the erratic movement of the camera operator, he also had to close the vise and position the sample..




.

 

I'm no quality welder but I have Mig,TIG ,Arc and a
Henrob oxy, all 4 have their pros and cons but I have done oxy with the fine point henrob and it puts no more heat than the tig into the panel,,,, a tig panel does however show rust within a day or two uncovered,,, the oxy seems to take weeks to start rusting left uncovered,,,so the oxidization point is lost on me, it doesn't happen with me,,,, unless you don't know how to set a proper flame,I guess it must burn a few more impurities out plus after going back to fine point oxy , my tig welding has improved due to better hands skills in heat and puddle management,,,,just my 5c all have good and bad points, all are better at some jobs than the others, we need more than one arrow in our quiver


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some great inspiration here. I used to do a fair bit but found that doing bits n pieces for other folk just gotin the way of personal builds ending up in the regrettable sale of some cracking projects, not least my 36 3 window I gave up the quest for perfect metalwork, I just couldn't get over the final hurdle, and neighbour complaints didnt help with motivation lol..

attached a few pics of stuff I got side tracked on and some personal stuff..

34 3 window for a buddy.. rear quarters upper and lower, both door skins, roof filler panel, fenders, firewall and a ton of other areas that needed attention.

 

1930s BMW rusty trash I should never have entertained .. but shows anything can be brought back to life given enough time .. This was a horrible task, hated the car, my heart wasnt in it at all, set aside my own stuff to do the guy a favour !!!

Ended up with 75% new floor, new sub rails, inner rear wheel tubs, entire lower body and doors, full firewall and front quarters, A pillars, rear fenders, rear trunk, front fender repairs, rood panels .. you get the picture ..

Could have built my own stuff in the time it took ..

 

That's one heck of a favour and I hope you were compensated fairly for your time. I know how it goes though as I'm in a similar place wrapping up work on a kombi campervan... I hate it but I still can't allow myself to cut corners and thankfully its almost out of my shop. It's got in the way of other customers cars as well as using up all my energy leaving no time for my own truck to get done... not bad for something that was only supposed to need small repairs (the thing was rotten from the inside out and we couldn't tell until the first few cuts were made). I was never a kombi fan... that hasn't changed..

 

Some really nice craftsmanship here! I would like to learn more about gas welding! It may be old tech but its nice to have options when tools are limited.

 

Buddies 27 T just done this last year but with a free rein and no need for it to be over the top just some good honest tin work, nothing fancy .. Front cowl sections, floor front to back, rear lower body panel, rear lower quarters, trunk lid, tail pan, hood, hood sides, nose, and chassis.. Cute wee roadster and had a bit of fun doing it as it wasnt anything other than a hot rod..

 

Hi.
That looks like a jewerlers torch.. Is that so?
And are you worried about the torch getting hot from prolonged welding sessions ?
Im very interested in it.
Thanks