Well me & my dad make some more good progress on the rpu. I really wanted a swing pedal in the rpu, as I thought this would feel better than a floor pedal, and give me a cleaner, easier to build floor. After some debating, I went with a Kugel 90 degree set-up, and I am really happy with it. Kugel was really great to deal with, very helpful and friendly to deal with, so I highly recommend them from my experience. To mount the pedal, we made a bracket out of 3/16" plate that would bolt thru the firewall, and the Kugel pedal ***embly would bolt to this. The bolts thru the firewall will be ****on head bolts for the final ***embly, so they will look ok. I will end up fabbing a dash bar to run under the lower edge of the dash that will run door jam to door jam. I will then run some braces from the master cylinder mount to the dash bar, and everything will be real strong. Even as it sits now with no braces, and the cowl top off the pedal is very rigid already. Once the braces are in & the ****** hump is welded in to the firewall, it will be plenty rigid. I will also fab a simple drip pan with a drain hose to go under the master cylinder to catch any fluid that drips. I will run silicone brake fluid too. I also got my Gennie shifter from Race @ Streamline hot rod parts, also great people to deal with. So I got that installed so I can start the ****** hump & tunnel soon. I am really excited to see things coming together, here's a few pics-thanks for looking Dan
I've always liked those Kugel setups with the bell crank. That shifter is cooler than the other side of the pillow.
Nicely done. Fwiw - a friend of mine has one of these in a T-bucket and when you open the cowl gas cap* access door the M/C is right underneath for checking and filling. Gotta watch it with the paint - flat black for him - but a nice way to do it. I'd rather have an operating cowl vent, but you may be able to have both in an A or Deuce. *The gas tank is in the pickup bed.
Hey Dan! The timing of this post couldn't be any better. My brother and I have been pondering/mocking up what we will do on the Sedan. I like your setup, looks super clean. After looking at your setup I had a couple of questions: 1. Are you still going with cowl steering? 2. If Yes, are you still using the BMW box you had previously? 3. Is the setup you got from Kugel standard or is that brake pedal custom bent to place it in the correct position for you? I'm planning on running cowl steering with a BMW box like you had before. We're also planning on running a 5 speed manual ****** so a cluth pedal will also be required. The plan is to use swinging pedals. But it looks like a custom setup maybe required with the clutch on the left side of the steering box and the master cylinder on the right. After looking at your pics it looks like it would be really tight to fit that bmw box in there with the steering placed properly. Could you clue me in on how you plan on handling your steering for your build?
Thanks a ton guys, I appreciate! I had similar thoughts about filling the m/c too. I am kicking around a cowl vent. And though it would be really convenient, I didn't really want to go through making the cowl top hinge or remove, because it's a pain to get on-&-off in bare steel. Once it's painted, it would scratch up everything taking it off. It is tough to tell by the pics, but with the cowl to on, there is still about 4" between the m/c & cowl top. If worse came to worse, I could stand on my head a little to fill it up, or maybe unbolt the dash if I had to. It's not like the m/c needs filled daily or leaks, unless something is wrong. And I couldn't go with a thru the floor pedal, the frame & crossmembers won't allow it. As a last case scenario, I could use this guy to help out:
What's up! I am not running cowl steering on this car. I didn't want to go thru the headaches of building a support structure for the box, and then trying to build a floor around that. Plus, space is already tight with just the brake set-up, but trying to fit a clutch & steering box(in you car) would be a bit tricky. Not impossible, but tricky.... I did have to heat & bend the pedal to clear the steering column. Maybe you could use a swing pedal ***embly for the clutch & brake, but not use cowl steering(if you haven't already built that in) to allow everything to fit, and mount an F-1 box or something similar in a normal fashion intead of using cowl steering. If you were creative though, it would maybe be possible to fit all that + cowl steering
Not wanting to high jack the thread but here is a picture off of Steve Sellers My Space page that shows it done. Great work as always Dan.
Wow is that cool! If anybody could pull that off and make it functional, and beautiful, he could. He really does some cool stuff, thanks for the pic Dan
On a side note, I got a bit more done today. I built a crossmember to mount in the subframe side-to-side to mount the rear of my seats, and also fabbed up a front mounting bracket to mount the front of the seat to the subframe, so the seats are mounted. I originally bought these a while back for my old rpu body. I wasn't going to use them on this, but I really still have lots to buy to get this drivable. If I decide later to buy some nicer bombers I can simply mount them to the same four holes in the subframe, no harm done. Here's a few pics as it sits. I really have plenty of legroom, it is comfy! Now I can mount the gas pedal & get the steering column position figured out too Dan
Again, nice work. Looking from here it appears there is enough room for a remote M/C reservoir on the firewall. Knocking out a small aluminum tank that fed a couple of lines that tap into the top of the spring retained M/C cap would be easy. You wouldn't need a whole lot of 'downhill' on the lines to top off the M/C. Small enough and high enough the reservoir shouldn't clutter up the firewall too much. If you're really trying to keep things on the firewall small and clean a bulkhead fitting with cap would do it. A clear piece of PVC hose with fitting on one end and small plastic funnel on the other would allow convenience in filling. If you overfilled you can see where you're at with the clear hose and simply tipping it down would empty the filler hose and you could replace the cap. The filler hose bulkhead fitting could also exit the dash in an incon****ious location. Another way out is to have somewhat long filler hoses and a M/C reservoir that clamps under the dash on the right side. To fill the M/C you'd un-clamp the reservoir bring it down under the bottom edge of the dash and set it high enough so that fluid can run downhill into the M/C. When clamped in the reservoir would be higher than the M/C. This first pic shows the bleeder gizmo I use on the fuel pressure isolater line to the gauge. It's the Earls T bulkhead fitting just to the left of the vertical aluminum tank for the air/oil separator. The T is hard to see because it's behind the black hose. This pic is a little closer and a slightly different angle. The way the bleeder setup works is, the T bulkhead fitting is the highest point in the isolater line to the gauge. The cap gets removed and a clear PVC hose with matching fitting on one end and funnel on the other gets screwed on. Fill the line with whatever you like - some like mineral oil, I use ATF. Fill it so that a little fluid is up in the lower part of the clear hose. Give it a few minutes to let the air bubbles out then remove the filler hose fitting with a rag wrapped around it if there is still fluid up in the hose. Most times there isn't, you just need to be patient and you can see when you're about there vis a vis all fluid and no air.
C9, thanks a ton for all of the input & info-I really do appreciate that! The remote reservoir is something I was kicking around, I just didn't know how high the m/c would end up when it was installed. Now looking at it, it would be a little tricky(I think..)putting the reservoir on the firewall because the top of the firewall is not much above the m/c, so the tank would have to be really high. But, since the cowl tapers higher at the rear, I could possibly hide something in the dash area maybe..... I need to sit in the pondering chair for a spell I think..........again the input that you gave is very good, and very appreciated Dan
You're welcome. Keep in mind liquid seeks its own level. If the reservoir was about the same depth as the M/C and the side of the M/C was drilled & tapped for 1/8" NPT on the firewall side just checking the reservoir would give you the exact level of fluid in the M/C That would keep things from having to be high enough for a gravity drain-down to the M/C cap - if that's where the fittings were - from the reservoir. Another small one that struck me was to make the reservoir about fuel block size or a little larger. The reservoir wouldn't be a reservoir so much as it is simply a place to check fluid level. Are you trying to keep the firewall un-cluttered? Maybe a simple aircraft looking access panel in the firewall with appropriate Dzus fasteners would - if large enough - allow access to reach through with a filler tube and topoff/fill the M/C with a PCV tube and funnel at the top end. One problem I do see is the paint and brake fluid incompatibility thing. To that end I run silicon brake fluid in my 32 roadster and no probs in 14 years. It's only been topped off three times and once was after a front disc pad replacement. So all this filling up stuff, reservoirs etc. may be a bit of a moot point. Even so, if you had problems out in the Dez or other friendly place it could be handy to have easy access. Good access to components in some areas of these little cars we build can be difficult sometimes. I backed myself into a bit of a corner with my electric fuel pump mount area. It could be replaced on the road - and with Holley pumps, for sure I carry a spare - and you can bet there'd be some whining and *****ing going on. I'll do better next time....
Beautiful Craftsmanship Dan ! Are you going to have it at the Florida Billetproof March 21, 2009 ?????
Thanks Glenn! Yes, I will have it at Billetproof! Me & my dad were just talking about that, we are already really excited for it. We really had a great time this year Dan