Hi I am i the process of putting 302 in my 39 ford pickup but unsure of what manual box go fit.i am kerping the rear axle original in place std 302.is the 4sp Toploader ok is is the gearshift to far back so it would be under the seat. I would like to keep the shift in the same place ot there abouts. Anybody any thoughts
When you are asking about Top Loader are you asking about , the car 4 speed , 39 3 speed or truck 4 speed that would have been behind the 302 ? I’m thinking you are asking about the car 4 speed . There 3 different shifter mount locations , that come from using different tail shaft housings . Also you can locate a Jeep 4 speed (t 176 ) shifter and top cover , it will fit on the car top loader with slight mods and give you a shifter looking very close to the 39 and damn near the same location .The 39 top loader use is finished up by using an adapter between engine and trans , the trans should remain in near stock location. A later truck top loader 4 speed , commonly defined as a granny gear trans is not the way to go , it will add 125 lbs of weight and the drivability and ratios **** for your uses .
Tell me about the 'original' rear axle in your truck. If your truck is a half ton pickup it should have a torque tube drive line (enclosed driveshaft).......If that is the case coupling the newer transmission to the rear axle requires some changes. A more detailed explanation of exactly what you have, or wish to use, would help guide you in the right direction.
Hello Sorry i should have explained better 4speed car toploader box mustang? Would you suggest the 4speed toploader over the tremec.what would you say is the easiest and most suitable way to go. athrowdave, post: 12899176, member: 249826"]When you are asking about Top Loader are you asking about , the car 4 speed , 39 3 speed or truck 4 speed that would have been behind the 302 ? I’m thinking you are asking about the car 4 speed . There 3 different shifter mount locations , that come from using different tail shaft housings . Also you can locate a Jeep 4 speed (t 176 ) shifter and top cover , it will fit on the car top loader with slight mods and give you a shifter looking very close to the 39 and damn near the same location .The 39 top loader use is finished up by using an adapter between engine and trans , the trans should remain in near stock location. A later truck top loader 4 speed , commonly defined as a granny gear trans is not the way to go , it will add 125 lbs of weight and the drivability and ratios **** for your uses .[/QUOTE]
Hello Original rear axle with torque tube i was going to get the open drive conversion kit. It wont be a daily driver but i would like it to cruise comfortably at 60/70mph.
Sounds like a 5 speed or Ford SROD 4speed , which is 3 speed + OD is your answer to cruise with stock rear axle gearing . Up to you but I build a 35 truck parallel springs and an Explorer rear , it has 60k trouble free miles on it to date . The old axle is not very durable , looks cool but there are way better designs . What I bet is limiting your thinkin is the buggy spring . Sell it and the crossmember , add the funds to leaf springs and other parts you will never be sorry .
Thank you for the reply. That answers the driveshaft question. However, the torque tube keeps the rear axle 'located' and transmits the driving force of the rear axle to the ch***is via the transmission/engine mounts. With the torque tube removed, some other provision has to be made for that. edit: deathrowdave's post just popped up. I agree with him. Using a parallel leaf rear spring set up and a newer open drive axle would provide the easiest, fastest and most satisfactory outcome for yur stated intention.
Ladder bars can be a problem, depending on how they are mounted at the front. To allow proper suspension movement for a street driven vehicle they must be mounted very near the center of the ch***is at the front.
Do you not think ladder ch***is is going to work.i want to keep the rear axle but what your saying is its not going to work even with ladder bar.
What I am saying is, that HOW ladder bars are mounted is very important, though has been widely ignored. If the ladder bars are widely spaced at the front, like has been commonlky seen on drag cars overs the decades, that is incorrect for a street driven application. Mounted that way, ladder bars are like levers on the axle housing I__I . In a turn, the ch***is rolls/leans a bit and the rear axle housing acts like a anti-roll bar (aka 'sway bar'), except it can't twist and causes stress and strain on the ladder bars and their mounting points front and rear. At a minimum, this causes resistance in suspension movement.......at worst, it breaks the weakest point. To allow proper suspension function, the ladder bars need to be mounted close together at the front, more like the wishbone on your front suspension /_\. Mounted in that manner, they control axle location, transmit drive force to the ch***is and allowing the normal suspension movements without stressing anything. Look at how the control arms arm mounted on Chevy pickups, '60 thru '72, for an example of what I am saying. There are several threads on the HAMB that discuss this. The parallel leaf rear suspension mentioned in above posts solves all this and leave more room under the vehicle for exhaust system, etc. and is worth considering before you make your final decision.
Many many thanks for sharing that info with me and taking the time to do that. I fully appreciate and understand you valued points i agree with you.but i would like to try to keep the rear axle in place i appreciate i maybe compromising but for my basic needs of the truck and expectations i will try to stay with the rear as is.one thing i would likevto do away with is the lever arm shocks and replace with something a bit more suitable.i did think about adding a panhard ron or sway bar.i have also noticed there is not parking brake and in other 38 39 pickups there is no brake. How easy is it to find a used suitable transmission.
You mentioned the Tremec, which is available with 4 different shifter positions. The T5 can be fitted with the S-10 shifter which is not as far forward as a top-cover shifter, but may fit your use.
Another comment on the rear suspension. You didn't mention them, but the stock rear radius rods are not strong enough (as is) to use as control arms in the absence of the torque tube. But there are control link designs, other than ladder bars, that could be used in your stock axle/spring application that will control the axle but have pivot points that allow suspension movement without imposing unwanted stresses. You might want to look at websites and catalogs or ads from companies that specialize in suspension components to see the variety of offerings.
Thanks for the reply Are these to be used along side the ladder bsrs or stand alone.can you suggest a company to look at.
Or just use a jeep cj7 T5 with a torque tube adapter and not have to fool with the rear at all. Getting the right clutch and bellhousing requires some research but it should all bolt together. And if at some point ya wanna swap it back to a flatty or different engine you have butchered anything. The jeep shifter is in the forward most position.
The easiest maybe the Tremec T170FS-RTS out of a mid 80s F150 ir Bronco. It's a 3speed with Overdrive. Use the bellhousing clutch and all.... bolts up to your 302.....It is top shifted, the shifter is forward and that puts the shifter right where it needs to be in your 39 truck. I have these transmissions in my 48 Tudor sedan and my 69 F100. We put one behind a nailhead in a Model A too....not super strong or made for racing but a nice cheap trans that does the job. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
hello thanks for your reply trying to find one of those here in the uk wont be easy. i have seen a advert for dappergorage.com for t5 transmissions using s10 shifter but they are out of them.i will try to find that combination if possible with bellhousing and clutch requirements.if you know of a suitable setup drop me a reply. thanks
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