Technical Ok I’ve made a decision, Buick Dynaflow.

Ok I’ve made a decision regarding my leaky Dynaflow in my 55 Buick special.

I collected jaguar ifs and irs set ups a bumdstens adapter and a th350 trans. All set to make a big job out of a leaky trans.

Had the house up for sale so the project was put on hold. And as such I was doing research. And it seems these old Buick’s are with more original then all hacked up.

So I’ve sold off the trans, the irs and the ifs is gone today. The tranny adapter is getting put on a shelf ... as you never know what might happen in the future! Lol.


Anyways I’m going ahead and resealing the Dynaflow and getting a new torque ball kit etc.

My question is any tips or tricks to getting it out of the car and apart ?
Anything to look out for when resealing it?

Also where should I get parts?
Seems everyone and there uncle sells kits on eBay and all over the net.
For what’s involved in getting it apart and back together I want to use the best possible parts I can find.

Thanks.
Daniel


A little photoshop by moose on the wheels !

 

I can't help you but I can say your a hell of a man to keep the old Buick original with all its' short comings.. Oh, and that is a very cool looking Buick...

 

Here is a picture of a 54 Special convert I had. Stock 264 nailhead, with a 4bbl from a Century on it with dual exhausts. Oh and a Dynaflow trans. It would lay rubber in low with a brake start, and cruise down the hi way. Nailhead sounded great with the 4bbl and duals, nice rumble. I had no problems with the Dynaflow. It just took some getting used to the fact that it didn't shift, and was slower on the take off, then most other transmissions. Skylark wire wheels make 50's Buicks in my opinion.

 

I have read the dynaflow ( my 55 was a stick) leaks less if you drive it more often.. good luck, that car is a beauty.

 

FATSCO is a tranny parts supplier that has been in business a very long time. I'd check with them.

www.fatsco.net located in New Jersey

 

I've gotten parts from Fatsco before for my '53, the torque ball kit in particular. The parts seemed well-built and from what I remember, the parts were reasonably priced. I plan to reseal mine sometime over the next few years; it leaves several drips wherever I park it. Pulling the torque tube is not a big job, but it's a heavy job.

Disconnect the hard brake line at the rear, the parking brake cable, the shock absorber links, the four bolts at the back of the transmission, the panhard bar, and the two bolts from the springs (one of them MAY have left-handed threads; I can't remember), and you can pull it straight out the back of the car. I apologize if I missed anything; I haven't had mine out in at least five years. Some people pull the tube back with a come along and leave the springs connected, but with two more bolts, you can have the whole thing clear of the car. It's important to work a jack to try to keep the tube reasonably level with the transmission, or the tube binds on installation and removal.

I'd get a shop manual for a '55 if you don't have one, or maybe even an old motor manual, since there aren't any dedicated Dynaflow books out there that I've seen. I've only done a torque ball, seal, and front pump seal on mine so far.

 

Drove it last summer and it was drippy out the torque converter area
Then at the end of the season it started peeing out the bellows in the rear.
It’s an old car so I’m used to them “ marking there territory”
But it was excessive last year

 

Well somebody has to ask: Have you tried stop leak? Of all the snake oils it's the one that often works. If it's hard rubber seals that are leaking.

When I pulled the cast iron Powerglide out of my Chevy I hooked a chain to the back and yanked it out with another car onto a pallet. But I was shit canning it for a stick..

 

I'm belaboring the obvious, but...
It's heavy. Be careful.
I've had old Buicks. Great cars. Yours looks nice.
When a Dynaflow is working correctly, they ain't bad transmissions. And I think it'll work perfectly with your existing shifter.
Now that's belaboring the obvious...lol.
Good luck!

 

Thanks man ! Lol.

 

had a few Dynaflushes, never a bit of trouble with them. A buddy had one burst into flame driving on two flat tires, but, y'know, what can you expect?

 

Another neat addition to 54-55 Specials is the redlinner speedometer from a Century. Fits right in the dash and is very cool looking. Instead of having a needle it has a red line that follows around in a circle, just below the numbers. The engine turned panels can also be added to a special.

 

Only advise I can give is if your doing it at home on the Floor get the Car higher than you think it needs to be and on very Solid stands. Then go to your local rental yard and rent the heaviest Trans jack they have. Do Not Try this with a standard floor jack or just enough room to kind of work. Finding out the Car isn't high enough to slide the Trans and Jack out from under will bring a hole new Vocabulary into your work space, remember the rear axle will be out of it also. Where are you going to lift it from now?

 

When I changed the 389 and four speed hydro to a 455 / Turbo 400 in my Pontiac, it changed the whole personality of the car and ruined it. Glad your keeping the Dynoflow. Those old Buicks have such a cool sound to them...

 

Suggest you visit Buickclub.org and pose your questions in the post war forum. Lot’s of experience here, info on parts suppliers, etc. Good thread going on there now about cleaning screen and flushing. They are good transmissions but leaking is unfortunately normal. Regular driving does seem to solve some of the leaks!

 

Thanks guys
And @BJR that is one pretty Buick ya got there !

So other then it being heavy, it’s just nuts and bolts then?

I got tire stands for the front tires and some 6T axle stands for the rear, should get it at least 2’ off the ground.

 

A detail comes to mind from years ago - blind spline on the u-joint ….

 

Having to remove the rear axle and everything, could be good having a helper there when you do the heavy lifting/moving and stabbing it back together.
Makes things go easier and safer.
Always "funner" with friends anyhow.

 

Plus, it's always good to have someone handy to call 911

 

I actually pulled a 320 straight 8 with the Dynaflow attached to it. Over the radiator support. Used my heavy-duty cherry picker. It protested slightly. And I felt better after it was setting on the ground.

 

Got my assistant right here! Lol

 

I've been doing this lately. I'll have someone around if I'm doing something where I'm under the car even if they sit around and BS. I find it easy to find helpers if I announce that lunch will be on me....

 

I would opine that you need to listen to a Buick w/ Dynaflow start out from a stop. It is a different sound and you may not like it. It runs me nuts for some reason but it is what it is--you may like it.

 

Good idea for us old guys. My cousin waited for me before getting on the church roof to sweep off leaves last week. I didnt do anything but he felt better that I was there. I refuse to get on the roof now.

 

Good point … however, the state of the exhaust system has a great deal to do with it.
Stock exhaust : agonizing hum somewhat like a DA sander on a quarter panel.
Duals with 30'' Porter steelpacks & 2'' tailpipes : "That deep motorboat sound."

 

I like the sound of an uncorked Buick I-8.
Even enjoyed my stock '51 with a single straight-pipe. Definitely an 8cyl sound, but a little smoother.
I think a lot of people don't like the lack of shifting sound of the Dynaflow But they might not realize that you can start out in L for a "power take-off" as the ads would say...and then shift to D and the trans shifts as other transmissions do.

 

Thanks guys
I drive the car last summer with no issues other then the leaks
I thought it drove fine, different from what I’m used to but fine
The nailhead sends it down the road with no issues, keeps up with highway driving and the steering and suspension handled the country roads around me with out any issues
Would like to upgrade the brakes
But that might be next winters project.

 

I was told [have not done it] that the rear can just be jacked back, to get the tranny out. my buddy Charlie told me, back in the day, he converted an old bumper jack to push the axle back.

 

That's right. You don't have to take the rear end completely out. Just far enough back to disengage the front of the torque tube and U-joint from the rear of the trans. Basically the same process with all torque tube set-ups if you wanna pull the trans without pulling the engine too. Even though it's fairly labor intensive, and kind of a pain in the ass, it's still less involved than pulling both the engine and transmission.