Hot Rods 1964 sbc 327 oil filter adapter

I bought a project with a 327 that needed rebuilt...I am almost finished with the rebuild and went to put in the oil filter adapter that cam with the project...all i have is what i have attached below...do i also need the original by p*** valve or does this part just bolt directly to the block? Im getting mixed reports while researching...

 

All you need is shown there, and are you aware it takes a Ford filter?

 

i think that is the one offered by Fram and uses a Ford oil filter? i don't think you need the byp*** with that one, i believe it's built into the filter?

i prefer the one made by Wix that uses a Chevy filter and you need the byp***. it is Wix part number 24061

 

Fram filter should be ph 8 long short ph16. That kit should be Direct bolt on like shown in picture , thread lock blue on bolts , red for filter ( in the adapter )

 

The one in the photo is a trans dapt 1024 kit...It looks identical to what i have. ...thoughts? so orginal by p*** is not needed and i just bolt this directly to the block.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-1024

 

Perfect..just what i was hoping for as i do not have the original byp*** valve..Tks!

 

A Ford filter, say an FL-1 for a 289 has a 3/4-16 thread as does that adapter, Chevy spin-on’s are 13/16-16 thread.
Reading the link you gave they mention the 3/4-16 size and also Chevrolet/GMC, but that refers to the engine, not the filter used.

 

I'm not familiar with that kit (there are several on the market) but it looks like you remove the existing byp*** valve ***y and install that adapter in place of it. So that means there is no byp***? Or is the byp*** in the filter itself?

I used a Mr Gasket adpter, made it simple. You leave the byp*** valve ***y in place and install this adapter over it, then use normal spin on filters for Chevy engines.

 

Im not a fan of Fram oil filters...so i could run an equivalent correct? Like a motorcraft FL1a or a Napa41515

 

Correct, any FL-1 equivalent.

 

maybe you could read the instructions?

https://www.hedman.com/product-detail/1024

 

Dont use the fram
Use WIX 51515

 

What would happen if you did Not remove the pressure relief valve body? Or is it physically impossible to do this? Just curious, Thanks.

 

By p*** is there if oil can not flow threw filter fast enough or filter get clogged,then it will by p*** filter . I my self removed by p*** So all oil is filtered, Wix race filters are rated 60wt or less , there different microns for different wt of oil ,, & YES Fram oil filters of today ARE Junk for any motor oil filtration.

 

The advantage of the ford style filter there a way more sizes available if space is tight.

 

Ok here we go... Proof that a WIX is superior to a Fram. And the Xact filter being used for this adapter kit. The WIX 51515 and Fram PH8A



WIX has twice the filtration also with metal ends NOT paper.

What would you trust in your car?
I should have even taken a pic of the lower end WIX that is the Orielly house brand MicroGuard even has better filtration than the Fram. That I use in my DD

 

Are you trying to make it hard to screw things up?

 

Get rid of that 2 piece system and install a "Perma-Cool 1134" adaptor.
The mister gasket Chinese junk leaks, whereas the Perma-cool is 1 piece.

The down side to a Perma cool adapter is, there is no byp*** which is OK for racing [full flow] or you need to use a Fram HP4 filter with an internal byp***.

The Fram HP series is more expensive than the usual $5 Chinese/Thai junk
and is Made in USA

 

I've had no leaks from the Mr Gasket adapter. It's a pretty simple design, not much to leak. The adapter seals with the large oring supplied, the spin on filters seal to the adapter. Having a byp*** is pretty important IMO.

 

Use a Wix adapter from NAPA.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/20190110_153437-jpg.4154580/

Hi JYDog,
About when was that picture taken? I'm curious about the vintage of the filters' innards shown.

thanks,

Dan T