Ready to fire new sbc crate motor, (1996 350 HO vortec) I know it calls for 10-30w but I have 5 quarts of 30 weight break-in oil on the shelf and any reason I should not use it to start it. Primed the **** out of it, oils coming out push rods, turned over motor while priming. I would'nt have worried years ago but I realize tolerences are tighter now. I'm thinking ok, but just looking for input.
"Actual", break-in oil, only a single quart is required with any other quality oil. The cam is the main reason break-in oil is required. All other parts, there is no metal to metal high loads like at the cam to lifter and at each end of the push rods. I'd run this oil for about an hour, change it (and the filter) with another quart of break-in oil and drive it thru a good hard round of break-in miles Mike
^X2 on the Gibbs oil, excess calcium and other **** in today's OTC oils even negate some of the benefit of zinc (ZDDP) additives. And don't use a cheap Fram filter either, go WIX. You didn't mention if you have a roller cam but that can make a difference, so can how long the engine sat after ***embly.
"excess calcium"? How is it "excess"? Calcium is used in the detergents which are needed to not only keep the engine clean but also to neutralize harmful acidic compounds that form as a result of combustion and which are corrosive to the internal parts of the engine, particularly the soft metals used in the bearings. They are also important for reducing the rate of oxidation of the oil, which forms lacquer, varnish and sludge in the engine. BTW, there will always be some wear on start up of a new engine, always. Even when you use a proper ***embly lube and you prelube the engine, the protective films that form in high stress areas take some time (and heat from friction/wear) to form. Until those films are established there will be some wear. What happens to those wear particles that are generated? Detergents in the oil surround the particles and keep them suspended and dispersed in the oil where they can hopefully be removed by the filter, or carried out with the oil when your drain it. So what happens if you reduce the detergents in the oil? Hmmmmmmm, they didn't mention that on the Gibbs site, did they? "and other ****" What other **** would that be? Be careful with how you take the information provided on the Gibbs website. That website and the information they provide are designed and intended to sell Gibbs products, remember that. I'm not saying their products are bad, I'm just saying, the information provided is designed to sell you on their products, not to make you a professional lubrication expert. If you can't filter out the marketing speak from the technical language it's probably not best to parrot it on the web.
I think i'll make it simple, fire it for an hour, change it, beat the hell out of it and change it again. Thanks
No one really uses "Break in Oil" any more. I just run what I am going to run in the motor and add a can of GM Break in Additive if I am breaking in a flat tappet cam motor. Once the cam is broke in unless the rings have not seated yet (which is rare) it is broke in. granted my motors never last very long I think we only got 150K plus on the timex.
Had good luck with Valvoline vr1. Right now Amazon Prime has 10-30 and straight 30 on sale for $4.00 a quart with free shipping.
I don't think high levels of detergents are helpful for break-in-only lubricant or a 500 mile race engine. The balance between detergents and ZDDP is a function of engine application. Certainly high mileage applications like taxis and for certain diesels require higher levels of detergents.
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