I thought I'd do a simple tech post. We've all seen neat steering wheels that were in deplorable shape and "beyond saving" Well, that's not always the case! I picked up this nifty 52 Olds steering wheel from LowSprings for my girlfriend's 51 Bel Air project, but it had more cracks in it than a plumbers' convention. There were even big fissures where you could see the wire frame. It looked like it had been in a fire, too, given the bubbled plastic in one spot. Too bad I can't find the photo before I started the restoration. You'll just have to use your imagination. You'll need to file any sizeable cracks into a V shape. Don't worry about the hairline cracks. We'll get to them later. Next, you'll want to get some epoxy. There are a few good ones, but I used POR15's epoxy putty. It's pretty stiff and hard to mix, but you can do it. Stuff that puttty into all the cracks you can. Don't try to get it smooth, just stuff. The Por15 putty works great. It dries as hard as a rock in a few hours and sands just like Bondo. They sell it as part of their floor restoration kit and their steering wheel restoration kit, but you can get it by itself, and some paint supply stores carry it. After it's set up, get a foam/rubber sanding block and start sanding. I think I started with 150 grit. This will sand the filler as well as smooth any roughness iin your wheel. Here's the Olds wheel up to that point. You can get an idea of the original condition of the wheel. Look at all the white lines!
Next, I sprayed it with primer so I could more easily see any problem areas or cracks I missed. This picture is missing, too. The only cracks I missed were tiny. Again, I took a sanding block and sanded looking for low/high spots. Once satisfied with that stage, I got some Icing glazing putty (like Bondo, but a higher quality and much easier to sand) and gooped it on. As it turns out I gooped on way too much (Boyd style!). A much thinner skim coat would've been better, but I got carried away, and as I would later find out, a high build primer will easily fill the hairline cracks. Once that was all sanded smooth, the wheel was ready for primer. You can use rattlecan primer, but I reccommend priming the wheel when you prime your car. Auto primer is of higher quality and will adhere better. Remember, the wheel will get a lot of use with all that white-knuckle driving you'll be doing. We were so busy with the car that I never even got a picture of it in primer, but it was wet-sanded and Gary C painted and cleared it. And if you think that looks nice, you should see it with the horn ring! That will have to wait for the whole car reveal. I fixed a gouge in the wheel of the 59, and Jester (fellow Chrome Czar) painted and cleared it when we painted the car. So far the paint and repairs have held up really well.
Good tech piece. I have one that needs this done also and I will try to photograph the process as I go. Now if I can just find the time to do it.
Cool post. It's little things like this that go un-noticed as far as how much work actually goes into building a cool *** car. Details count.
Truer words have never been spoken. Great tech.....Now I won't be discouraged to buy that ratty looking steering wheel at the next swapmeet. Josh
Great info. From some online info I read from a person who mainly restores wheels for T-birds (a**** other things), I recall him using a flex additive in the paint or a special type of paint with a clear coat with a flex additive. IIRC, this was for crack prevention and longevity of the repair.
That's good to know. I filled a few minor dings and divits in my 59's wheel and it was painted, flaked, candied, and cleared about a year ago and it hasn't shown any signs of trouble yet. Here's that wheel.
Just read this post today. Went out to my 50 Plymouth, pulled the wheel, followed your instructions, and amazed myself. I actually did it. The only thing I changed is I used single stage urethane(solid color). Probably won't last as long as base,clear, but looks 1000% better than it did! Thanks again for posting this, now I wanna paint something else!
I've been doing that same thing for years. Since i work in an aircraft factory, we use many types of epoxys to bond parts with. Ive done everyting from early banjo wheels to 60's wheels. Nice article... S****s
Great tech, now if I can only find time from the H.A.M.B dragster to try it on some kool one's I've stashed
I was just thinking of this the other day what was I going to do about the wheel in my 53 after the pic of yours, I know THANKS for the inspiration
Hey ****oli, that's not a stripe, the whole wheel is red, but thanks! Now if I could only figure out a good way to fix clear wheels from teh 60s I'd make a fortune!
Anyone know of a place to buy por-15 epoxy in/near Austin? I have a '67 Beaumont wheel I'm restoring for my shoebox and after reading this thread again I'm stoked and don't want to wait a week for shipping.
Very nice! I finally found my 61 Impala wheel for the 41 only now I'm thinking of putting it in the Hel Camino and putting the 59 Imp wheel in the 41. Or I may just sell the 41, Paint them both to match the Hel Camino and change them out at will.... Either way, It will need the same treatment. Too much free time ya know.
Looks good...I restored the steering wheel from my 49 Club Coupe the same way. I took a dremel tool and dug out all the cracks, then I filled with pc-7 epoxy. After that, I rough sanded and shaped it. I then sprayed it with polyester high build primer, which is the same as liquid fibergl*** resin or gel coat. It seals and fills in all the sanding ****ches and smooths everything out. Then I sanded it to perfection, and painted it with off-white single stage.
looks awesome ! do you think the epoxy can replace the whole outside steering wheel? ive only got the steel wire on mine & the horn ****on & center is almost perfect
The Car Quest PAINT store near me carries it. Go to the Car Quest website and search for stores near you, and look for ones designated as "paint" stores. You could also call POR15 and ask for local suppliers. I also see guys selling it at swap meets.
Thanks Hellfish. Lotsa places in Austin carry the rust-prevent/patch stuff. Here's the only place I've found which carries the epoxy putty: Commercial Services 2008 Ave N Austin, TX 78727 (512) 251-7714 Off of IH35, go west on Howard Lane, take the left right after the Fed-Ex building. They don't take credit cards.
Best part about the HAMB is the quality tech posts. Great job on this one. I checked out the body work post on the car too, nice work! Or I should probably give the credit to your girl.
Yep! Her and GaryC did the bulk of the body work. Thanks for the compliments! Not sure about JB Weld. Will that work on plastic? I'd use the POR15 stuff or the other epoxy people recommend (can't remember the name)
Thanks SOOO much for posting this. I have a big chunk missing above the ****on in the center of my wheel and didn't know how to fix it. I'm totally ordering some POR-15 stuff and fixing it! SWEET! Stacey
Myers used JB weld on his and it has started cracking after a couple years... I think it may set up TOO solid.
I have used JB weld on two Banjo wheels and 1 unidentified (Plymouth wheel ?) with no problems with cracking.
Well, I had already used JBW (last weekend) to fill the few cracks that were in that Biscayne wheel you hooked me up with... we'll hafta see how it holds up.
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