Started on my first frame ,what do ya guys think so far?The measurements are based off of Wescott's model T print.
Yeah,I know it does look alittle small it's 2x2 1/8 square tube.I've been told by a few people that it'll be able to support,but I don't know.Guess I'll find out,HUH?I think the next one I do I probably won't taper the frame rails.
Yeah,I did taper them on both sides front and back.I seem to remember seeing a T frame that was tapered like that?But now I'm struggling to remember.I wonder if that could be a problem??? As for power I have a Chrysler 440,but I was thinkin' of putting a slant six (which I have access to) in this one then doing a beefier frame for the 440.not really sure kinda depends on what I can afford(which ain't much)or what leftovers my Friends toss my way.
With a taper on the top it may be difficult to mount the body, cant say I have seen a chassis with the top tapered like that before? I agree, curve the corners on the spring perch supports. Good start though. Doc.
Yeah that's my suicide spring perch,so's while I'm workin' around in my garage,I can trip and gash my neck on it.Then I'll just lay there lifeless in a pool of my own blood.LOL.....Yeah,I'm gonna round those off.I made it at work at the end of the day,so...I figured I'd round it off later.
2x2x.120! Step that up! PLEASE! Especially if you're going with the 440! You may be good sitting static, but wait till you hit a some wash board, brick road or a pot-holed road! Not much of a safety factor there... but that's just my $.02. go for a 2x3x.186 or .250 in there. You won't have to change your spring mount and you will reduce the chance of catastrophe... Neat looking frame though.
Ya know, I think you should consider that a practice session and the money spent on the steel is tuition for the learing. Cut it up and use the steel to make a welding table or engine stands or a body rotisserie. So much for the mean words, sorry 'bout that. Now, Most crossmembers are made so they overlap inside the side rails so that gravity is keeping them together rather than trying to tear a weld apart at every engine torque and chuck hole traversed. Factory frames were riveted together so they had a little "give" sorta the same as like your step ladder, or bed frame. That's why they call that a ladder frame. The tops of the rails should be flat on an Model T, in fact they were a U channel not much heavier construction than the frame under that king size bed in your house. but the engine was bolted solid to it giving it some added strength and they didn't have much more power than four push lawnmowers in a row anyway. but the pieces were all doubled over each other in the corners for strength. Get yourself a copy of this book; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1884089011/002-0855278-6401613?v=glance&n=283155 How to build Real Hot Rods. by Tex Smith Turn to page 26 and consume the chapter "Designing a frame" and right there on p 27 is a "fadT" frame and on p29 is dimensions to make it work with a V8. It has a round front crossmember that is just two wall thicknesses shy of the 24" frame width (I'd make that frame the needed width to just clear inside a channelled cowl, whatever the cowl dimension is.) so the crossmember fits inside holes cut in the inside sides of the rails, and them the top and bottoms of the ends of the tubes are rolled over and welded to the crossmember to make a finished "substantial" looking frame. There's also a triangulated space frame made of smaller tubing than you have for a crossmember but it gains strength from the triangulation that a simple ladder frame needs shear bulk to provide.
Naw,man I don't take em' as mean words.I posted these for feedback,that's what I needed.I'd rather somebody say"good effort ,but here's the right way to do it."Than"looks great!",as the front of the frame gives way and I die in a fiery heap O' twisted metal.I've got enough box tubing for four frames.I figured I'd probably need a couple trys to get it right.Besides rotisserie sounds pretty good right now. thanks guys..
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