Technical Rear end Swap help!!

Hey Everyone I’m swapping a ford 9” into my car. I’m kinda lost on what to do. The 9” I have is a little shorter than the rear end in the car now. Can I measure where the spring perches are on the stock rear end and weld them in the same spots on the 9”? Or is there more to it then that? I don’t weld so I’ll have to pay someone to do that part but I can’t afford a bunch of money to have someone do the whole swap. I called around my local area and there’s a shop that will put it in for $1000. Any advice, help, and info would be much appreciated. To be honest I’m getting very discouraged with the whole thing. Thanks


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1000 is way too much to weld spring pads on and install a leaf spring rear end

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I agree with Bdynpnt, that $1000.00 is too much just to move the pads.
It is a simple job, but it depends on how far the pads have to be moved. If money is a problem, it may even be possible to add a piece to the existing pad and re drill the hole that anchors the spring.
Doing the perfect job, would be a matter of you marking the correct angle of the mounts, cutting and grinding off the old spring mounts, making or sourcing replacing new mounts, and taking the rearend to a machine shop to have the new pads welded on.
A purist would want to dis***emble the rearend completely, but it can be done without dis***embling the rearend. When we were doing rear end swaps back in the late 50s and early 60s, I did four swaps, and some of my friends also did swaps, and there were no problems ***ociated with axle alignment. The cars in those days were our daily drivers and were also raced. I am not saying it is the perfect way, but it worked.
Bob

 

I thought it sounded like to much. The 9” already has the old perches cut off and smoothed and I have replacement perches already. Do I have to worry about the off set of the ford pinion? And the 9” is already dis***embled.


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OOOps! Typed too fast...Over rode Hoodwinx's post.
Offset pinion in Ford rear is a good way to keep constant velocity in the 'U' joint needles. It worked for Ford all those years...Trust it!
Speedway Motors for the pads, cheap...($15?) When you position them, driveline angle is important. IF you can remove the old ones (die grinder or 4.5" angle grinder/disc) reposition rear end with the pads in place. Tighten 'U' bolts to 75 ft. lbs. of torque, then trailer or tow car to welder and have him 'sew them up'. Weld on outside perimeters of pads. Paint. Done.
Don't forget to check multigear lube before driving!

 

Run synthetic gear lube, it is more expensive, but you will never have to replace it and you will have less drag.
Bob

 

Would dropping the old rear and leafs all together and taking that and the 9” to a welder work too? I don’t have axles for the 9” yet trying to make progress on the car with what I have.


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delete this part, or whole thread

 

I took it out but not seeing the big deal


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The site is honed in on paying homage to vehicles 1965 and older, so anything newer is somewhat OFF topic. But, Ford 9" related projects and transplants are popular topics. Details about what to do are more relevant that the vehicle that they are going into in this case. To answer your question about leaf spring pads, yes they have to be in the exact same spot as the ones on your existing axle now, unless your changing the leaf spring mounts on the car.

 

I think you solved your own problem.Install the rear.Set the pinion angle at 4 degrees,and center the housing so you have equal distance from backing plate to spring on each side.tighten the U bolts,and pull the spring/rear as a ***embly,and head to a welder.I bet they do it for less than 200 bucks.Its not alot of welding.

 

Exactly what irishsteve said would be your best bet . You don't have a buddy that doesn't know someone with experience and a welder? Ask around bound to be a friend of a friend sort of thing. Quoted price is like somebody patting on the back to find the soft spot to stick the knife in .

 

I know of a few really good welding shops in my area I’m going to talk to. I think I’m just over thinking the whole thing. I just don’t want it to come out wrong


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I used a Bronco rear in a "said" vehicle and it was 3/4" shorter on each side. Centered it, set pinion angle, tack brackets and remove rear and weld up on saw horses. Jump around with welds and not a ton of heat to keep the axle tube from warping.

 

I'm doing the exact same thing now, my plan is once I have both rears at my buddy's shop, I'm going to find level on the stock spring pads then measure pinion angle.
Set the pinion angle on the 9 inch to equal stock rear end measurement, place new spring perches on at level and weld away.

 

I would mock it up under the car to be sure, the GM car in question has the front spring eyelets narrower than the rear ones and not truly parallel springs.

 

Here is a list of forum members who say they live/lived in Victorville.
Maybe you could hook up with one of them who maybe able to give you some first hand direction/advice etc.
I feel that you are going to need a friend on the ground there with you to ensure you don't screw up or pay out too many Ben Franklins $'s...

Username Location Home Page Last Activity
1airstreamer Victorville ca Sep 10, 2013
5LUG Victorville Ca Mar 23, 2014
a bone 2 victorville cal Sep 2, 2009
addictive victorville ca, Dec 8, 2016
alex-c Victorville CA Apr 16, 2014
Brent McElwain victorville ca. Feb 22, 2012
Caddyman77 Victorville ca Sep 8, 2015
calirican2 Victorville Ca Apr 11, 2010
ChicanoCruiser Victorville Ca http://myspace.com/7sickz0 Jun 22, 2008
doored62 Victorville CA http://www.railitcustoms.com Jan 7, 2008
folks55 Victorville Ca May 25, 2011
j.hong80 victorville california Feb 19, 2010
jda victorville ca Nov 28, 2011
lowcoe1 Victorville Ca May 25, 2014
mexibilly victorville ca usa Mar 11, 2008
Rdla00 Victorville Ca. Apr 23, 2013
soldier1128 victorville ca May 6, 2011
trnkey26t Victorville CA Jun 2, 2010

You also have Bowtie Automatics guys and numerous Mexican car guys out in your industrial area who maybe helpful for leads...

 

Very helpful of you to generate that info for the OP
Also, pay attention to single leaf or multileaf spring pack. I was a tight ***, and cut these from another axle. Would have bought these if they were available 30 yrs ago..
https://pontiworld.com.au/usgmsp/product_info.php?products_id=7309

 

I’m going to be running Calvert spit mono leaves so I had to buy their leaf spring perches. Thank you guys for all the helpful information.


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I, too, don't do critical welding. I was able to find a guy with a portable welder mounted on the back of a truck. He worked on pipelines and on construction equipment at job sites. He came to my house and parked in front of my garage. He welded in my IFS crossmember which I had tacked in. I could not have taken the frame to a shop.

 

That’s another great idea. I’ll have to check around and see if there’s any mobile welders in my area.


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Hoodwinx, you do know how to set the pinion angle correctly, right?

 

I don’t have much experience with this. I’ve swapped Chevy for Chevy rear ends but never like this before. My buddy has the tool to do the pinion angle and he did his 23 T so I was going to ask him to help me.


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So I need to have my engine and trans in the car and the rear end mocked in to get the pinion angle correct? Do I need a drive shaft too?


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I doesn't make any difference what brands you are using. Just make sure the angle on the transmission output is equal but opposite to the angle of the pinion. So, if the trans is 3 degrees down (just a number I pulled out of the air), your pinion would need to be 3 degrees up.

Make sure this is measured when there is some weight on the rearend, simulating the car sitting on it's wheels. The axle might rotate a little as it moves up and down on the parallel leafs. Put some jack stands under the axle housing and let the car down on the springs (U bolts holding the axle to springs, of course).

 

Ok I think I’m understanding. Thanks for the help.


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Seems like your best bet is to first find a 'car guy" in your area and ask him to have a look at what
you are trying to do. You first tack weld the new pads on your housing and install it for "mock-up". Then when pinion angle and everything is correct you can lower it down and permanently weld it, making sure you don't warp the housing.
Go to some car shows and meet car folks. Introduce yourself and ask questions about what you want to do.

 

They also sell angled shims to fine tune your pinion angle, just incase it's a little off after the car is completely together.

 

I have a mobile welding guy that I have used a few times, not cheap but does excellent work. He has a shop too so I could bring something small in to him.

 

Take original rearend place spring pads on a level surface ,now measure pinion angle. Probubly 3* up.
Once you have pinion angle place 9" on level surface spring pads at spring mounting spacing pinion angle set as original (be sure rearend is centered.)
Weld pads. Measure driveshaft hookup brakes don't forget emergency brakes
Happy motoring