Technical Flathead Lifters/Tappets - Adjustable vs non-Adjustable

I'm starting the search for parts for my C69 rebuild, and what I thought would be fairly straight forward regarding lifters now seems somewhat confusing. I've come across a few threads stating the adjustable lifters are ALL garbage and not to use them due to hardness, screws backing off, thread size, screw head thickness, and other quality issues (i.e. made in China), etc. This despite what seems to the norm as far as using adjustable lifters. I cannot find anything really current with respect to quality issues, so I was leaning towards stock type non-adjustable lifters, but I cannot find any that look like the ones that were in the engine. The pic below is from Macs, and I would never install anything like that in my motor. So what is the good word on lifters these days?


Stk lifter.

 

I don't think there is any definitive word right now, and I've been paying attention. I did an engine where my machine shop guy bought me a rebuild kit, it came from Mac's and included adjustable lifters. They seemed cheap compared to the old adjustable ones I pulled out. So I bought a set off ebay, new for about $160. These are really nice, but not hollow. When I built the engine I decided to hoard the nice solid ones, so installed the hollow ones from Mac's- wondering why while I did it.

So that engine only has about 100 miles on it, but the Mac's lifters adjusted fine and haven't changed. I guess I'm running a test. I thought about having the old adjustables resurfaced, and think I still will for a future engine.

Just a while ago I saw a set of used hollow adjustable ones on ebay. You could check out having used ones resurfaced. I didn't want to get into setting non-adjustable ones.

 

the original johnson lifters are still being made. not hollow any more, but same machines, same people, different name. gary, "gofast", over at the barn, an engine builder from new york i think, sells them. heres one thread, there are many if you search https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242868

 

I put a set of the solid adjustable style in my 8ba when I rebuilt it. No problems so far after 25k miles.....I'd use them again. Got them from Red's Headers.
http://www.reds-headers.com/

 

Thanks much for the link. Internet searches don't come up with much although some threads did mention a place in Michigan that was still making them, but no name. I like the idea of going directly to the source as it seems there are a lot of cheap knock-offs out there, and even better that they are still made in the USA. For those that may want more info, I've attached links and pic from their catalogue with P/N.

http://toplineauto.com/

http://www.showmetheparts.com/topline/

 

dont forget to drill some holes in the lifter bore

 

Use high quality adjustables. Look here.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...&_nkw=flathead+adjustable+lifters&_sacat=6000

 

That ebay selection reminds me of how confusing it was trying to buy some good ones. If I was gonna do ebay and wanted some right away, I'd get those from McMinnville, TN for $206.

 

I put the solid adjustable lifters in my flathead many years ago. I had a bit of trouble with a couple of them holding their settings. The reason I had trouble was I installed a 3/4 race cam as well and when they grind the profile on the cam they get the higher lift by grinding down the heels of the cam to a smaller size. That means that the adjustable lifter must be wound out further to make it work. They don't hold the settings well when you wind them out. I ended up staking the threads and using thread locker on the problem ones. No problems since. Also note that the more times you adjust them the worse you make the interference fit of the threads that holds their setting. When I look back on it, Ford had the right idea.....the lifters were non-adjustable and the clearances were set by grinding the valve stems. They won't go out of adjustment then. It takes a lot longer to set up the valve clearances but you will never have to do it again.

 

A couple of years ago I got a set NOS stock lifters from Southside Obsolete in Faribault, MN. They have a lot of NOS stuff.

 

When the lifters WON’T hold their adjustment,remove the threaded portion from the body and place the threaded(male) in the jaws of a vice and “crush “ accordingly. This should “agitate” the threads enuf to HOLD the settings.Flatheads Forever!

 

Got a hold of someone at TopLine Automotive where the Hylift Johnson style lifters are made. Not cheap. Spoke to someone at Speedway, and they get theirs from Egge, and sell Isky ones as well, and their site states Made in the USA for both. Not sure where Isky and Egge get theirs, but my machinist said that other than Eaton or TRW?, and TopLine, there are no other manufactures left in USA. Perhaps, like a typical engineer, I'm over ****yzing, but I really don't want Chinese knock-off parts in my flathead. So, do I go ahead and believe what Speedway says, based on what Isky and Egge say regarding "Made in the USA", and save some $$$, or get the for sure "Made in the USA" from TopLine?

 

Can't say for certain, but I'd guess that Egge makes their own. They do operate their own foundry and machine shop.
-Dave

 

Anyone know good or bad about the ones that Schneider Cams offers?
http://schneidercams.com/SOLIDlifter5382.aspx

 

Zig, what is the price Topline charges for theirs?

 

It is amazing how much effort and money people are willing to expend in order to install a very poorly engineered product in very expensive engines.
If adjustable lifters save time and effort, do you sometimes wonder why Ford didn't use them?
A set of stock lifters can be installed and adjusted in HALF the time of an adjustable set.
And a big advantage is they will run trouble free till the engine is junk.

 

I think it was $308.00.

 

Seems the Comp Cams sold by Speedway are the TopLine ones based on the head thickness of the adjusting screw. Price is $309.99.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/COMP-Cams-811FH-16-Flathead-Ford-V8-Lifters,43670.html

 

Stock ones are a lot lighter than adjustables

 

When I see my machinist next week, I'll ask his thoughts about sticking with non-adjustable ones. For my purposes, I'll likely never need to adjust them based on useage, and it does seem like a lot of work to prep the block, and then to fiddle with them, but what do I know.

 

Current 59ab rebuilt almost 50 years ago with solids still purring. Starts almost instantly every time, no oil use age and great mileage. Don't see any reason to mess with it. Now that I said that, I probably just jinxed myself.

 

Anyone have a source for the OE light weight hollow lifters? I have never been able to find any, and all of the used ones I have are worn at the valve end.

 

I always used adjustable lifters on a rebuild so I could use chevy 1.5 valves.
Phil

 

those mac lifters are for early valves with mushroom stems.

 

or use chevy valves--they're a bit longer.

 

See my post #10 above.

 

Dropped by my machinist today and asked him if he could grind the valve stem if I used non adjustable lifters. He said yes, then asked me what kind of valves did I purchase. I told him that I have regular valves with the one piece guides. He said that I needed the valves with the mushroom stem that use the split guides if I want to use non adjustable lifters. Is this correct?

 

i dont know why he has that theory, pretty much nobody uses the split guides and mushrooms anymore

 

That's what I thought from what little I had read. He also mentioned that the lifters need a crown to ensure to spin. I thought all lifters were designed to rotate.

 

Ok if that is the machinists theory , then what is his theory as to how they adjusted the valves on on piece guides with solid lifters?
Use the one piece guides and straight stem valves, put an O ring on the intake guide outer.
If he cant work this out perhaps you need a new machinist.
Unless there is something else odd going on?