I have finally got my 34 pickup on the road, Really nasty cam in it. It runs and sounds great at idle. Taking it at cruising speeds is where the problem occurs. It runs for a mile or so good then completely cuts out like its not getting gas, I then turn the ignition off and immediately back on and the engine starts right up and goes through the same process in another mile. I'm running three strombergs on this 59AB along with a 2-1/2 lb electric fuel pump. I tried running it with the tank cap off too. The pump is positioned a foot away from the tank. Absolutely no leaks anywhere. Questionsss..... Would this electric pump kick out like this and then right back on?? Would too much fuel pressure cause this?? Doesnt seem to be flooding.. Would too little fuel pressure do this?? I have had it kick out just running at 5 mph on occasion. Here's a sneek peek....
wish i knew man. i'm just about to start tearing into the same flathead engine and begin hopping it up so i'm paying attention. good luck
I had the same problem on my stock pump after rebuild? Rebuilt it again, no more problems. Sounds like a pressure problemto me though. Mark
I dunno but it does sound like an electrical issue with the fuel delivery. Got another electric fuel pump you could try on it? Rubber fuel lines or steel? If rubber, you don't have a line collapsing do you? JH
Is the tank clean,maybe you have rust/debris plugging up the pickup tube, sounds like a fuel pressure gauge post fuel pump would tell you alot.
Yes, I do have a rubber line running to the pump in that one foot span to the filter. Everything is new here ..filter, pump, lines, tank. I ran it with the cap off and same thing here. This is a hard one since it only does it on the road. I may have to try hard lining to the filter and changing the pump. This is a 12 volt system. I don't think its an electrical problem because the engine dies out slowly.. spitting and sputtering a few seconds before it quits. Thanks for the compliments. I have a few build pics to show when i get the bugs out.... I am more tickle about this flatty... it has a nasty sounding lope with lots of torque. Its running 50 lbs pressure and even stays cool without a fan on the road. I tried it a few miles before installing one. Any other ideas on this problem?? or have we hit them all??
Have you tried adjusting your fuel pressure down a 1/2 lb.,,,, How close to the exaust is you electric fuel pump? BTW,,,,,I love the truck. HRP
one of your lines has a pin hole some where or an air leak at a fitting its getting airbound .or your pump isnt big enuff foe the 3 carbs. also check the filters in each carb one could be dirty
You may have it... I have noticed air in the clear red fuel lines. I may have a slight hole soemwhere. No i haven't tried cutting down the pressure. Would too much pressure cause this??? No leakage at carbs.
The fact that it "immediately" starts back up leads me to believe it's an ignition problem and not a fuel problem. We all know how long it takes for the carbs to fill up when they are empty even with an electric pump. For the engine to die, the carbs would have be empty and take some time to refill before it would restart. Next time pop off the aircleaner and check for fuel before you do anything else. That will narrow the search down. If the accelerator pumps spray then you may have an ignition problem.
I had a strip down model A when I was a kid with a three duece intake that I had the same problem you described,,,,,the dreaded vapor lock!,,,,my grandad put wooden cloths pins on the metal line running to the carbs a cured the problem,,,,, I'm not suggesting cloths pins,,,but if all else fails! HRP
Will do.... I can check to see if I have current to the coil at that time too.. After seeing the bubbles in the fuel lines from the firewall to the carbs... I'm leaning to an pin hole issue. I plan to replace the rubber line to the electric pump first.
This sounds like an electrical problem to me . . . in that you can turn the key off/on and it immediately takes off once again. (Is this immediate, or did you pull over to the side, turn it back on, let the electrcial fuel pump work a bit, etc?). The first thiing you need to do is isolate whether or not this is gas or electrical related -- here is what I'd do: 1) Take it back out on the road (as is) and wait until you have the problem. When the engine stalls, cut the ignition (kill the electric pump), push the clutch in so the engine isn't turning and coast over to the side of the road. a) Take your air cleaners off b) Look down the carbs and see if your accel pumps are squirting when you hand activate the throttle linkage. Any gas squirting? c) You can also pull a carb top off -- if you really want to validate, though the accel pumps are all that I'd initially do. If they aren't squirting, then you're out of gas in your fuel bowls -- which will stall the engine. If you have gas, then it is probably electrical. 2) Electrical problems are harder to diagnose -- the good news is that you seem to have the same problem occur in a somewhat consistent fashion. Since it isn't bad all the time -- and it happens after a somewhat consistent amount of time, it may be related to heat saturation. Though typically if heat has caused the problem, then you need to wait for something to cool before it works once againi -- just turning the key on/off won't cool anything. I don't recall if you mentioned your ignition -- but if it is a typical points/condenser ignition, then you may have a problem with the coil, resister or condenser. When condensers fail - they can do all sorts of strange things . . . they're cheap, so just replace them if you're running them. Let us know what this turns out to be . . . Dale
I Found it. Yes it was an electtrical problem The fuel pump was kicking out and would reset when you turned it back on. Thanks for your help guys!!
now that its fixed, show more pics please EDIT: just found your new thread. Thanks http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1297747#post1297747
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