Ok here is a quick question for the well informed. What do they use to bond brake shoes that are not riveted. reason whay I ask is that I have a pair of Stude front brakes that are in near perfect shape, like in redone before parked good shape. but one of the shoes has become unbonded and if it is possible I would like to rebond it. Just a damned shame to throw away a a pair of low to no mileage shoes because one came undone. Is that something that can be done? Does someone know?
A local shop that rebuilds brake boosters and master cylinders is rebonding a set of OT shoes for me. $25.00 a shoe (new set of 4 would cost me $300)
You having some bonded is certainly more informed than I am and I'm pretty well informed on some things.
I dont know whath they use but they put it in an owen where i used to get my shoes done in the 80s And if one have become undone how long till the next become undone....Its not fun driving a car when one brake lining came lose and wedge itself betwen the other brakeshoe and the drum and lock the front wheel Yes i have tried. Hit a stop sign and ended upsidedown in the ditch
There is a bonding cement that's like black tar of sorts. Usually how its done is in pairs. There is a metal band that is used with a spreader bar between the shoes under pressure holding the glued lining against the shoes forced against the band. The whole setup is put into a brake oven for about twenty minutes, take out of the oven, let cool and remove the finished shoes. Some linings have the glue already applied but they don't bond until heated as its a heat activated glue. You could probably use a couple c-clamps for just one but dont use the house oven. It will smoke and stink a bit. I've added a couple photos. One of the setup that will go into the brake oven and one of what pre-glued linings look like.
Years ago we did some brake lining bonding at work for a OT project. It's been too long to remember the particulars, but I do remember we bought both the lining material and glue (or epoxy - whatever it was) from McMaster-Carr.
TUFFBOND 230 is one adhesive for linings. Not sure who sells it in the states anymore. I am sure there are other adhesives that work also.
I just figured if there was a way to do it I would look at it. I had thought about riveting all 4 shoes. I don't think it is likely that any of the others will come undone but if I decide to rivet I might as well do all of them for a complete set. I have been saving the brakes because they are in such good shape other then the one shoe. I'm thinking about using them on the front of a sedan project I have in the wings. Good info.
I'm not so sure about the advisability of rebonding lining that came loose from the shoes. Waco Brake and Clutch http://www.clutch-shop.com/ In Waco, TX used to do them in the 70's and were able to do odd ball stuff at the time. But, there should be a shop close to you that does it. Usually there are brake and clutch rebuilding shops in most major cities and a lot of smaller ones. Probably this is the place to start asking. http://www.casperbrakeandclutch.com/
For those of you that have netflix there is a do***entary called "YANK TANKS" about old cars in Cuba. There is one segment where a guy relines brake shoes in his back yard. After the United States placed a trade embargo on Cuba in the 1960s, many cl***ic American automobiles were effectively stranded in the country -- victims of short and costly supplies of gasoline and dwindling spare parts. From Cadillacs to Buicks, the cars became an important symbol of success and freedom for many Cubans. This unique do***entary is a must-see for history buffs as well as automobile enthusiasts all over the world.
They are new, just discombumerated. At least one previous owner of the car had a big blower motor in it then it went to a restorer who I'm sure didn't realize that restoring was work. The brakes which I am not actually using on the car were evidently freshened by one of thos two fellas then not put to use. OK the truth is I got curious about what was used to hold 'em together.
You can use epoxy and clamps just make sure both surfaces are clean clean. The only down fall is the 18 to 24 hour cure time. I did a set four years ago and no problems. They are inspected anually during winter layup
I just glued a shoe back on with JBW, still in the clamps. Like porkn******, new metallic lining but the shoe rusted and lining came off. So I bead blasted, washed and laid on a thick layer. I'll probably rivet it as well since the holes are already in the shoe. Oh, and the wheel cylinder was frozen, single piston. No amount of pressure on the brake pedal would budge it. Took it off and hooked it to a grease gun and jacked it right apart.
Somehow your methods scare the **** out of me Blowby but I don't think that is the first time that has happened if memory serves right. I know damned well that I am not about to trust my life and the lives of my family to JB weld holding on a brake shoe because I was too cheap to replace a set of brakes.
[QUOTMr48chev, post: 10936614, member: 45559"]Somehow your methods scare the **** out of me Blowby but I don't think that is the first time that has happened if memory serves right. I know damned well that I am not about to trust my life and the lives of my family to JB weld holding on a brake shoe because I was too cheap to replace a set of brakes.[/QUOTE] Haha that's what I was thinking also.
I have used JB Weld too and it worked well until the shoe wore out but Americans have been pussified to the point that everyones scared and the safety nazis will be on this thread soon to tell us we're going to wipe out an entire neighborhood
I've had the lining come off of one of the shoes while driving and luckily the car just pulled hard on that wheel until I got it apart. It seems that after many years of damp storage a film of rust forms, and or the glue breaks down, releasing the lining. Bonding is better than riveting because one can use the asbestos all the way down to the shoe core, rather than only to the rivet heads (or some safe distance above either). When I worked at a torque convertor rebuilder about ten years ago we also bonded friction material to some of the convertors in an oven, so that is another possibility for a shop that could redo the brakes, if you had them jigged up and ready to go, for a nominal fee.
And I also read other JBW brake shoe success stories on other forums. But I will also rivet them as I said. Maybe the Chinese have better glue. BTW I had NO brake on that side before I took it apart, the rubber hose was plugged.
I'm not going to get in some ******* contest over that one but over the past 50 years I have had far too many vehicles that had home remedy repairs done to them brought to me to be repaired correctly after the home remedy failed. That includes a lot of suspect brake work. Yes JB weld seems to be a fix all at least according to the local "undo***ented" farm workers from south of the border who used to buy it by the handful when I worked nights in a parts house a few years ago. Still as I mentioned way back on the first page when this thread originally started there is almost always a brake and clutch shop in any city of any size that can reline the brake shoes you have and might use your (almost new) lining again if they see them as being usable. Now my question: Why does it seems that the same guys who don't bat an eye at paying several hundred dollars for a set of bias tires from Coker all the sudden do the "I don't want to spend extra money" thing when it comes to repairing their brakes? There always seems to be extra cash for those "have to have to look right" things but no extra cash for a safety item that your life depends on and where one decides to cut corners.
And then he proceeds to start *******. I do appreciate your warning others about the perils of doing your own work and the failures you've seen. I'm a big boy, have been doing this stuff all my life, riveted the linings on my Vincent over 20 years ago and it's doing just fine despite pulling a chair, 100mph runs and many steep hills. You won't influence me but perhaps you will influence others. As to your question, I have never even seen a Coker tire.
LOL I ended up borrowing a rivet mandrel from a friends dad and riveted them, they are on an old Stude as we speak. The guy that owns it is busy raisin hell and puttin a brick under it.
The thought of using epoxy (that includes JB Weld) to bond brake shoes makes my blood run cold. Brake drums and disks can get red hot...way to much for any epoxy. Raybestos has been making brake shoes and providing proper adhesives and prep materials for half a century or more. Use the right stuff and follow the recommendations to the letter.. They are selling the stuff and, for a company with the "asbestos" term still in their name, you've got to admire their courage. If you don't like the minimum quan***ies, I think one gallon, keep it cold and share it with your friends. Watch out for the shelf life issue and, certainly run a test before using any expired stuff on such a critical application.
We are lucky, still have a reline service here in WNY, Kor-Pak, if the shoes or pads are not damaged. Bonded & riveted. Bob
You might try a close large city for Truck Brake Relining. When I lived in Memphis, Memphis Brake Company did bonded relines.
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