1940 Buick series 40. My lower control arm connecting rod end and bushing were gone when I got the car. The connecting rod had been just riding on metal so I don't know how it was supposed to look. I have replacement connecting rod. Am I supposed to press in the end caps that the connecting rods screw in to directly in the control arm? The rods came from one source. The front end kit minus the rods from another. The kit has rubber bushings but no way is the rod and end cap gonna fit in those bushings. Side note: my ***le says it's a 1940, however the part numbers on my suspension match up to 1939 in my parts manual. Different parts between 1930 & 1940? My original shop manual says the lower control arm can be replaced as an ***embly only.
If Buick is designed like similar GM suspensions of that era, the suspension bushes screw onto the pivot shaft and at the same time, they screw into the lower arm body.. You mention ''rubber bushes'' to me they sound like the the dust / grease seals that slide onto each side of the shaft, and the nuts screw under as it winds in and seals the joint from the elements.. Hopefully the threads in the lower arm are in usable condition, if so, start each nut on the shaft, wind in equally each side till they contact the arm, then wind them in.. Check items 5 and 5a in the diagram...
That's what I thought but my lower control arm is not threaded. It's a smooth bore. Some of my other part's part number match up to a 1939 in my parts manual. Maybe I have a late model 1939 although it is ***led as a 1940? The manual describes a self lubricating bushing. I pressed out the remains of a bushing with a metal outer lining and what appears to have been a rubber inner portion. There was very little left of them to tell. My front end kit came with rubber bushings that fit into the control arm but once they are in the end caps can't fit on the ends of the shaft. these end caps that have the grease fittings have what looks like ridges more than threads. Should they be pressed in? Do i have wrong shafts?
I don't know squat about your Buick, but your control arm shaft sounds very similar to the one in my old 72 Chevy Suburban. The ends of the shaft were threaded, and the caps were threaded internally and externally as well. I do believe there were some rubber dust washers that fit in between the caps and the shaft too. When I rebuilt the thing I wiggled the shaft into the bare holes of the arm, and started one of the threaded caps into the arm. I left the shaft shoved all the way to the other side while I threaded the first cap into place. Then I could slide on the rubber, and thread the shaft into that cap all the way it would go. Then I placed the second washer on the shaft end and began the last cap. Got it partway threaded into the arm, then rotated the shaft into it to make sure the caps were concentric. Then finished threading it in, centered the shaft, and bolted the arm into the truck. Make sure to squirt in grease before you put weight on the arm. It will flow into the far nooks and crannies easier. I'm saying all this since you had some difficulty with the king pins, and figured you might be interested in some knowledge regarding other suspension designs. Maybe you will be lucky and it will help with the Buick. Or maybe, if it doesn't apply, you can just disregard. Good luck.
THANKS! That's exactly what I ended up doing. It's all together and will be on the ch***is a little later today. I took the control arm out in the sun and at angle I was able to make out the part number. Although I'm ***led as a 1940 the control arm cross referenced to a 1939. Talked the guy that sold me the part, Bob's Automobilia, out in California. He said 1939 was the only year they used the rubber bushings I pressed out and they replaced them with the part I just installed. The bushings were destroyed so that's why they discontinued. I'll have to be careful whether I order 1939 or 1940 parts from now on. Got lucky with this one.
THANKS! It's all together and will be on the ch***is a little later today. Your diagram was a big help. I took the control arm out in the sun and at angle I was able to make out the part number. Although I'm ***led as a 1940 the control arm cross referenced to a 1939. Talked the guy that sold me the part, Bob's Automobilia, out in California. He said 1939 was the only year they used the rubber bushings I pressed out and they replaced them with the part I just installed. The bushings were destroyed so that's why they discontinued. I'll have to be careful whether I order 1939 or 1940 parts from now on. Got lucky with this one.
Sorry if I’m just piling on this, as an FYI to me. I may be getting a 40’s GM with this suspension soon. I never done kingpins before. If I understand correctly. Reaming the bushings to spec, pressing them in and having the correct sized replacement kingpins mean they will slide it easily without force? With the lock bolt just hold them in? Thanks OP please post pics of you suspension also and keep this thread going as you work in the front suspension. Thanks
Well I learned a lot a little late from many good folks on this site. Please reference my post on the Kingpins, especially the responses. I am about to order a new set of kingpins and hopefully I will have them done right next weekend. I pressed the old ones out after I removed the lock pin and just ***umed I would need to press the new ones in(***+u & me). I will follow the advice of those that traveled before me and either take them to the machine shop a mile from my house or buy the ream tool. I'm more inclined to let the machine shop handle it but I do have a friend I've known since first grade(that's 49 years) that used to do this for a living and is building a 32' Ford that I may watch him do it.. I'll try to remember to take more detailed photos next time around for you. This was my first set too and I hate to admit I put them in wrong 4 times. 5th time wasn't right either because one is difficult to move and one is completely seized. I did buy a reprint of a parts manual and mechanics manual from 1940. By cross referencing my part numbers on my ch***is parts to the manual that I actually have a late model 1939 which is a big difference on many parts. The illustrated parts breakdown(IPB) has been a huge help since some of my parts were missing. They were only $25 each as reprints and a great investment.
The Numbers on the ch***is matched my ***le for a 1940 but the part numbers on the ch***is parts match up to a 1939. The body matches the look of a 1940. lines, lights, interior, etc. The spindles in the picture will have to be done again. The lever action shocks were shipped off for rebuild. Supposed to be back in 4 weeks.
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