its getting about paint time. this will be my first time painting and i will have to do it on a very tight budget out in the open in a parking lot. firstly i need some advice on prep. currently its got a very shoddy metallic grey with very bad orange peel(bumpy). some filler in some spots starting to pall out. i dont want to strip it bare, but want it smooth and the spots that need filler to be clean enough so it wont fall out again. what would be the best quick method to prep? a friend mentioned a electric DA sander but i have only seen pnumatic DAs. for paint i plan to go with rusto satin black or tractor blitz black and use rollers and brushes to paint it. any tips/advise on painting with rollers brushes? any help would be appreciated guys. keep in mind im not looking for a show paint job here just something basic and quick. I need to replace/repair a lot of body panels before i drop any real cash on a paint job.
Do you mind a little suggestion? I can't help with the prep stuff (though a hi-build primer comes to mind). As far as paint application, I'd say get the HF 43430 HVLP paint gun and spray it instead of rolling. You'll be surprised how long your first paint job will be on there while you're doing other stuff, you might as well be at least a little happy with it One other thing, this last weekend, the Trucks! episode on Spike showed a roll on primer that they used on a cab corner. Check out their web-site for more information.
definately DA it just to knock off any roughness and peel and oxidation. Maybe use 150 first and go to something finer to get the scratches out. Dig out the falling out bondo with a grinder or wire wheel on a drill if you are on the tight budget,then fill with fresh bondo ...Please spend a couple of extra bucks on good plastic ...like rage gold,it will work much easier than the cheaper stuff and is only a couple of bucks more per gallon. and smooth it all out ....longboard it if you have one, DA it as best you can if not. I would not brush on the paint, but if you have to, maybe try it in an inconspicuous area first and let it dry...then see how it looks. Ace just had a sale on cans of spray paint...with the mail in rebate they were 99 cents a can...takes about 12-15 to do a vehicle.....thats pretty damn cheap. Also...harbor freight sells cheap sprayers...I have painted a truck with rustolium in the quart cans...just thinned it a little with acetone and shot it in the backyard very early in the morning before the neighbors woke up and before the wind started to blow......$10 paint job looked tits! Remember though...what I am telling you is not really the RIGHT way to do your car,but we have all been on a budget and sometimes cheaper is better!
Hey, Take care of that metal work first, as pointed out above, than the prep. for paint. Electrical da and oribital sanders are available, and are great for at home/low-buck jobs. As for the paint, since you're not lookin for a ten K paint finish i'd lean toward a foam roller and paint pot. Use mineral sprits to thin for a longer window of wet finish, something you're gonna need workin outside. Rattel cans arn't really cheaper and won't out last a rolled on paint job. Take your time and work carefully and this will look like ya shot it with a spray gun. Swankey Devils C.C.
This might be helpful: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102893&highlight=rustoleum Slonaker
Damn dude, no matter how bad it looks now and believe me I've seen BAD it will definately look worse after a brush or rollers. Kudos for getting tired of the old and craving new and just ready to dig in with what you have but man.. there's a time when to say "well maybe later is better" and that time is now. Man if you wanted to drive 5 hours to my shop you could pull it in and you're welcome to use it as your own. Don't think I can help much right now but you can use every tool I have. Just don't touch that car with a roller man. ... but if you do, sell tickets cause people will pay to see it.
I just repainted my truck this weekend with the blitz black and I used a $99 craftsman compressor and a $20 CH gun from walmart. I did like everyone says (if your gonna paint with out a booth do it early in the morning). I am very happy with it. Thats my suggestion, and you may never use the paint gun again but you will have a good compressor to air crap up, blow stuff out, and run an air rachet. Thats just my .02, good luck. Jay
If you're just going roll the paint on, why even bother w/ "body prep"?!?! I'd strip it all the way down, do your sheetmetal work, THEN worry about painting it. Hell, even a rattle can job would look better than rollers and brushes, unless you're going for that "living room fresh" look...
I apinted my VW in my one car garage. Scrathed the whole thing up wth the RED brillo pad looking things from the paint store. Then I shot PPG single stage with a standard Sears compressor that I borrowed from a friend and a old paint gun that I found at a garage sale. I shot it on a windy rainy day to boot. Not a show car paint job but it looked good for many summers. From across a parking lot, it looked as good as any other paint job.
i appreciate everyone trying to talk me out of it but advice on how to do it would be much more helpfull. do ya'll know much about brush on paint jobs or are you just assuming its crap? i have been planning on painting the truck that way since i got it 6mos ago. i have researched and have made my mind just looking for some tips from a new crowd. thanks for the advise pimpin paint and for the link slonaker. drtoner123 thanks for the invite but hell the gas to drive that far would pay for my own supplies. and i'll prove you wrong on the quality. bet you a six pack! and if anyone wants to buy a ticket hell cmon over any other old schoolers got any tips on HOW to do it chime in. If you wanna tell me not to do it thanks but dont waste your time.
The reason we're all saying brush on jobs is shit yet none of us have tried it is because we know it's shit! Think about it man, why do we spray it on to begin with? To atomize the paint so it applies evenly. You get zero atomization with a brush, just brush strokes and man that texture is okay on my wall but not on my car. If you think that shit will sand out think again, the second sandpaper touches your newly brushed on artwork, it becomes dull. Not to mention the amount of sanding required to get rid of the brush strokes. Dude I spend weeks and months in my shop sanding on a car just to get hairline scratches out so they don't show up on the final coat. It takes fuckin forever! And these are just scratches left over from the heavier grit sandpapers. You're talking major depth with a brush. I wanna see pics and lots of closeups, I'm sure a lot of the guys here do. In the end you're going to be greatly disappointed but you'll just say "I never expected a show quality paint job." You want advice on how to do it without buying a fucking single peice of shop equipment? How's this: Go buy several $0.88 cans of spray paint at walmart, at least that will atomize but holy hell the overspray will be terrible. You'd have to make one pass, clean it, buff it, and then do another pass. Doesn't get any cheaper than that though. Or go with a spray on primer in the rattle can. Don't get your panties in a wad because we're not telling you what you want to hear man, we're just trying to save you a whole lot of grief. You're stubborn and you'll brush on your car anyway even though not a soul on here will tell you it's a good idea. Well, some will, but they're only fucken with you, I expect Seymour to chime in later on with this one. Man I hope to see pictures of this truck later. I'd love it more to have pics of someone actually brushing the vehicle. I'd make a poster out of it and hang it in the shop.
seen it...lots of brush strokes showin when its done....but here's your advice on how to do it.... Buy a can of paint. Open it. stir it with the free paint stick ya get from the store. brush it on. That better?
I had a '59 Olds years ago that someone had at least partly repainted with a roller - it was grey with white fins. It came that way, and it was very obvious it was a roller job. Up close it looked like shit, from 30 or 40 feet it was okay. Seemed to be holding up okay, too, car had been outside. But frankly for the $150 or so it would cost to buy a compressor and a gun and the paint, it's probably worth the money just to be able to spray it. Heck you can rent a great big compressor for like $20 a day. That's how I plan on painting mine. I think I can even get the "Rust-X" I want to use as a tintable base that's still a petroluem base enamel, so I can paint any color of the rainbow with it. About the only way to minimize brush strokes is to use a paint that will go on and not set too fast, gives them time to settle out, or put on like 10 coats and sand it smooth after you're done.
Aren't you gonna have to sand all that shit off when you decide to put some real paint on it? Just to get rid of the brush strokes if nothing else, not to mention how well is automotive paint going to stick to whatever house paint you're gonna use? How is this saving money over spray cans? After you buy brushes and stuff you're gonna be up to at least the 30 bucks it'd cost to get the spray cans. Hey if brushed on paint is the loook you're going for, have at it. I'm betting it'll be the last thing you do to the car before you sell it to the junkyard, once you realize you ruined it. Definately post pics
for the best results in brush painting, use foam brushes and foam rollers. Best luck is with rustoleum. That stuff takes like 18 months to dry. Not to start any arguements, but I've had brush painted cars buffed out and it was pretty damn hard to tell it was brushed. Even did a car once in latex paint. Guy asked me what color it was, and I told him it was the same color as my bathroom.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 check this out if you are wanting to paint it with a roller, lots of info here, good reading. it starts to get interesting about 10-15 posts down.
I painted a car with a brush many years ago. Used the old red led primer. It looked good at 10 feet. I didn't care as I only gave $ 35 for it. Sold it a a couple years later for @ 150. Best profit % I ever had. But just like every one is saying it will be a problem to sand and paint the right way later. If you need to borrow a compressor or gun and do it right just pm me. Hell You can paint it in my driveway if you want. I have all the stuff needed.
"Guy asked me what color it was, and I told him it was the same color as my bathroom." Just about laughed my ASS off... Nearly burped up pop on the keyboard!
I say go for it. No, it's not right, but I painted the lower half of a workvan I had with some paint laying around after roughing it up and it looked great from ten feet... You're going to have to strip it eventually anyway to do the real bodywork, so why not. I've painted a few stock trailers with a brush and roller. Remember though, as in any painting, PREP is everything... So, sand it well, remove peeling, dig out mud, etc. That doesn't cost that much. Then thin slightly so it doesn't dry too fast (it won't lay out if it does.) Good Luck!
Exactly. Prep won't mean a thing if he's brushing it on the car. It'll cover up some of the body damage, highlight others, and just look like crap. I've only seen one piece of metal that was brushed that didn't look like crap, and they were a good painter. I could still see some roller marks in it though.
I painted my 66 with thinned tremclad 2 years ago, in my driveway, with a $50 hvlp gun. I've also painted my company step-van with a brush and roller. I used marine enamel,Japan dryers and a quality brush and roller. Use a short nap roller and "back-roll" the paint. Everyone thought I sprayed the van.
Hey Troy, this is Tyler. I'm glad to see that you are still working on the truck and that its not sitting around. I hope your brakes are working fine and that you solved your wiring problems... The biggest problem that you will have with your paint job is all that hammertone paint thats on the truck now. Look foward to lots of gummed up paper if you use a da. I would turn the speed down so as to not soften the paint up before it comes off. Or, since your truck has plenty of body issues, you could go with 80grit paper on a lock-off da and grind it down fast... Let me know when you've busted it all down and if you would rather spray than roll, I'll help you out. If its all ready to go and your just spaying some black...well just call me...we'll talk about how many beers it'll be!
if you roll on paint the car in a parking lot and the wind is blowing your going to get a lot of dust in your wet paint.
my advise is if your gonna put a nice paint job on the ride later on down the road you shouldnt use blits black..use rustoleum...you will never get the blits black off..lol...that shit is tuff...like powder coating..also i rolled my 39 chevy with rustoleum..the key is to thin it very thin paitn the car let dry ..wet sand it paitn it agian wet sand it then paint it agian...then it will be smooth and look good..ive done it with rustoleum
Some of the old as shit cars I've had were wearing 5 or more coats of brushed on paint. Dad told me they painted the car, the tractor, and just about everyting else at least once a year back when he was a kid. Hell, didn't Henry brush on black paint at the factory? Or was it poured on? Go for the brush - it's the original "traditional"
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