A question for those of you who build your engines. I am building a 263 CI Buick engine. A Performance,[hot] engine if you will. I have rebuilt several engines in my many years, but first modified one. It is to be a street engine, not a race one. The cam is original to the block, regrind by Dema Elgin . So do I really need to degree it? How often would one be off enough to need adjusting? What are your thoughts? Thanks Ben
if it is a single pattern cam roll it over to tc on split overlap- put a flat piece across the tops of the lifters on # 1 cyl make the intake a tick higher than the exhaust and you are good to go a quick way to do a check to see were you are
Since it was reground, it would be worth the time to check it. Not only should you check for lobe center lines, you also need to check lift and duration, it would be easy to get a few lobes off. Once you figure out the degree wheel and set up, it doesn't take long to check all the lobes. I read about a fellows reground 235 Chevrolet cam that over heated the engine and ran terrible due to a poor grinding company.
I don't care who reground it, degree cam, to much at stake..................................................
I check the cam against the cam card specs on number one cylinder as part of the assembly process. I have never found a new cam from a reputable grinder to be off. It could happen but I have never seen it.
Seen many cams not degree right... depends on how crank was ground.. how close to spec keyway was cut.. how accurate the timing gears were made.. how close lifter bore location is .... its not just how the cam was ground, many factors can contribute to how close the cam degrees in.
From my experance cams seem to be close the key ways in the crank not so much. I replaced a crank in a 327 and the cam was off 4 degs. from previous crank.
Thanks for the reply's, guys. Guess I will get my feet wet! Any one close to Wichita Falls want to help? Ben
While you are at it, be sure to mark top dead center. Sure helps when you time it to know that it is right. Pete
I never did one, even with all the cams I've installed. Street cars, stock cars they were all screamers. I did have it done by the builder on my 355. We (at my shop) also took great pains to determine true TDC and align the timing cover pointer to the damper.
I rebuilt my 263 last year. just a refresh. cam, main, rod bearings and new rings. also new timing chain set. my new chain was a little sloppy and I ended up just going about middle of the road but still keeping the pull side with less slop. so, not sure how close you can actually get it.. do you have a build thread? love these straight 8s
Long, you have changed your avatar! I do have a build thread on another site. I do not know how to link it here. Ben
I know this is an old thread but, this info may help someone else. The cam can be advanced or retarded like ignition. If the cam is advanced it will make more power low in the RPM scale, if it is retarded it will make more power higher in the RPM scale. If you can visualize a chart of torque at various rpms, the advance/retard will rock the curve about its mid point. Back when stock car racers really were stock, mechanics used this trick to tune their engines for best performance, they claimed they could get nearly as much HP out of a stock cam as from a racing cam. Advancing the cam reduces intake valve clearance, retarded reduces exhaust valve clearance. This is not usually a concern except in out and out racing engines. So, you should check cam timing and set to the manufacturer's recommended specs. Some drive sprockets have 3 key slots with different advance, there are offset keys, and for cams located by a bolt there are eccentric bushings. Another trick is to try different positions, testing compression on each, and go with the one that gives the most compression. This will be the setting that gives the best low and mid range performance. Or best for ordinary street and road use.
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