Crazy question I know. The reason I was thinking of this is so I could weld to the existing leaf spring perches for some track arm mounts. Since this is a truck axle, the perches are on top. Can you take out the pumpkin, flip the axle over and bolt it back in? I don't have it in easy reach to look at it or I wouldn't be posting the question.
My first instinct is to say no, but after looking at some pics, I'll chance my "no" to a "maybe" and you might have to redrill or oval some holes.
Remember one thing, when you put the car in reverse that is actually drive and drive will be actually be reverse and you will have 2nd and 3rd reverse and one drive but it would be reverse.
no it wouldn't reverse it, because he said to pull the pumpking, flip the housing, and put the pumpkin back in upright.
So what you're really asking is if the housing can be flipped over. Do you have a 9" gasket to look at? I don't remember if they are symetrical or not. Dan
The axles are going to be wrong--there is one short an one long axle, and they're determined by how far into the dif they go...look at the dif; the pinion is offset, to one side. The axles will be short or long, depending on which side they got in. The axle tubes are also shorter or longer. Also, what are the bearing cups like? Is there a top and bottom for the bearing retainers/brake backing plates? I think there is...if so, then flipping the dif upside down would also flip the backing plates upside down. -Brad
In short, no. The reason is that the holes are slightly asymetrical, the axle shaft problems mentioned above, and the later most common housings have a recess for the ring gear on one side only.
Probably will. Just sitting here drawing out things. That brings me back to having to do some welding on the axle tubes which I was trying to avoid right now. I may be worrying more about warpage than I should be. I'm about to the point of bringing it to you guys just to help me over this hump. Problem is I don't have a truck or trailer or any means of hauling it down there.
To avoid welding how about the speedway bolt on pads? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/path.2005/img.54585090_1_L/deptId.329/displayId.632/qx/ProductLargeView.htm
I guess it "would" work, but I wouldn't suggest it. You have one long axle and one short axle...flipping them will offset the pinion centerline w/ your transmission. Why can't you grind/cut off the existing spring perches and weld up new perches on the bottom?? If you're not capable of doing this, I'd suggest taking it to a drivetrain shop. Just my $0.02.
It's pretty easy to swap axles from side to side, too. But change the pads, you'll be glad you didn't open and jack with all the internals in the rear end...
I once asked this question of an expert - a guy that has done nothing but build 3rd members for over 30 years - and he said that it would burn up because it would not lubricate properly.
If you just flipped the whole thing over you'd ride on the backside of the gears "Coast side". Your brake calipers would be hard to blead since they would be upside down. As far as just flipping the chunk. Well I'm 100% sure you can, but the durability of it remains to be seen. You may run into oiling issues, and its set to be oiled in the other position. But no reason you couldn't rig up some sort of slinger in there to get oil to the top of the case. Also, I'm not sure of the 9" durability riding on the coast side of the gears. Some R&P's can handle it, Dana 60 High Pinion for example. But in all seriousness, cut the perches and reweld, sooooo easy vs. setting up a R&P.
I could walk around with a banana superglued to my forhead but why would I? Cut the brackets off and put new ones in the proper place........much easier.
The answer is no. The oil galleries will starve the R&P of proper oiling as has been stated. Also, you will now be riding on the coast side of the gears. That combination leads to very short R&P life. Now, having said that, there are a few rock buggies that use a flipped 9" but keep in mind they are used in 5-20min intervals and shut down. And they likely have some oil mods too. When I read this title I was assuming you were looking for more ground clearance and there are high pinion 9's available (I think it's Currie that ofer the Hi9). But you are just looking for perches and that is an easy $25 fix to weld some on the housing.
If you just flip the housing, the bulge in the back would be on the wrong side. You wouldn't get the 3rd member in the housing.
Why not just reweld the perches? The housing is not built to take the punkin backwards and all the previously mentione axle length issues.
And when it comes time to change the lube in the dif. with a "flipped" axle housing, the drain plug will be in the wrong place. But ... I guess you could turn the car upside down!
When you weld on the new perches/pads just duplicate the weld pattern on the opposite side of the tube and it will equalize the welding stress keeping the tube straight. After you do the welding just dress the welds down flush with the tube diameter and your good to go. this way your axle tubes will stay straight and keep the bearings from wearing prematurely. Frank
You can buy High Pinion 9" carrioers/Pumpkins at most 4x4 stores... raises the pinion 6 or so inches...
sounds like your making a moutain out of a mole hill.dont worry about the welding ,most 9'' are so out of line its not funny.allot of them come in with the splines worn in a hour glass shape.its not like your going to get it THAT hot anyway...
I ran into the same problem with a truck housing under a 53 Ford Sedan. I finaly decided to cut the brackets off and weld new ones in. Once I started it was a whole lot easier than I had thought. Geting the pinion angle correct is the biggest worry (theirs a lot of onfo on the board about that) and wasn't that hard either. One problem I didn't think of was the different bolt patterns between car and truck axles. Rather that having the axles re-drilled (couldn't find anyone local to do it) I bought a set on Curris Ent. axles.
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